Re: The Huffman Build you don't want to miss(HUGE UPDATE!!!)
don't panic about the rear wheel, I just re-laced my 3 speed rear and it's no big deal. key to the whole project is having another wheel sitting there for reference.
step one, look at the wheel and notice that the holes are staggered.
step two, start by the valve stem hole and go every other hole on one side of the hub and every other hole that is on the same side as the side of the hub you're on (every four holes). screw the nipples onto the spokes the same basic amount, not all the way on.
step three, looking at your other rim go the other way using your other rim to count how many holes between the spokes. remember to come in from the other side of the hub with the spokes. good practice would be to model the new rim after the already built hub.
step four, repeat the same thing on the other side.
step five, go around the wheel and start tensioning the spokes. probably one full revolution each at first would be good. once you get all the way around, if the spokes are still loose go around again.
step six, mount the wheel in a frame or fork or a truing stand if you have one. no tire just the rim. give it a spin and see how bad it wobbles or bobs up and down.
step seven, if most of the spokes are snug, go around and snug up any loose spokes until all the spokes are the same tension. it is important to remind you that it is important that you start with the spoke nipples at basically the same amount of length. it's not super critical but get at least close or your wheel could bob up and down. while you go around spin the wheel and adjust any wobble and bob. for bob adjust a few spokes in either direction of the high point, for wobble adjust spokes on the side you want to pull the wheel toward. always feel by pinching two spokes to make sure no spokes get super tight.
step eight, final tension is achieved by going around one last time making sure the spokes are all tight and the wheel is straight. pinch all the pairs of spokes at the "V" where they cross. use a good wheel to get an idea how tight is good.
the key is to go slowly and spin the wheel often. it's nice if you use the frame so you can get the rim basically centered. since the wheel is a coaster brake and there are no brake pads to worry about mostly straight, and mostly centered is fine. most old bikes with old wheels wobble a little and it doesn't hurt anything
