WOULD THIS WORK?

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Rat Rod

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RIght now I have three of those hooks screwed into the rafters in the ceiling of my garage, but that leaves a pretty good gap in between each bike and I'm pretty sure I could fit another two bikes in between the three that are currently hanging. My question is, would it be wise/safe to attach a board across the rafters using lag bolts and then screw my bike hooks into that board instead of directly into the rafters, thus allowing me to space the hooks wherever I wanted instead of only in the cross beams? Will the weight of 5 bikes in that one condensed area cause trouble for my rafters down the road? I'm thinking that it would probably be fine, but thought maybe some of you with more construction knowledge could chime in.

This is what the current set up looks like...

DSC_0012-3.jpg



The red bar in this second photo represents the board I am thinking about installing...

board.jpg
 
I think if you use a long enough board to spread the load across enough rafters, you should be fine with the additional weight. Plus, the area is pretty close to the supporting wall.
 
as long as it spans between 3 rafters you'll be fine for as many bikes you can fit.
think back to your youth and how many "healthy"corn fed michigan people you seen setting
on a porch swing at the same time.. :mrgreen:

most were only fastened on one rafter(if that) running long ways with the rafter...
 
if you feel like too many bikes on it will make it sway, you can always put a longer strong back above the joists , and even tie it in to the rafters to over kill it... :roll:
 
Ya know...Rat Rod...most people checking this post are really seeing what you have laying around the background, what are you working on, or admiring how clean and organized your workspace is :lol: ....Oh yeah the cross beam is a great idea as long as its mounted with a couple of lag screw all the way to the ceiling joists (which should be every 16" on center)
 
You really would not want to use lag bolts larger than 1/4" in diameter if you were to use this method to attach your "stringer". As previously stated,braces made from 2" x" 4" dimensional lumber cut and attached to the roof trusses and ceiling joists (verticallly spanning) and attached with 3 1/2" #10 primeguard screws would signifigantly increase your "load bearing" capability. If it were me, I would use the same 3 1/2" #10 screws to attach my 2" x 6" stringer to the underside of the ceiling joists.If your using a drill to fab this up its a good idea to pre-drill pilot holles and counter sink the face surface. It makes it much easier on you and your drill, but if you are lucky enough to have a small cordless impact driver, go ahead and let that lil beast do its thang and enjoy the show! No pre-drill countersink muss or fuss, just a lil testosterone spike! :mrgreen: As far as weight concerns, a typical attic mounted air handler is in the 200 to 275lb. range. We remove the old ones and install the new ones using 2 roof trusses to suspend them from all the time! Hope this helped, Later & PEACE!!!!!
 
I have extra room in my Garage. Send them this way. Start with the Raleigh PUB and the Coppertone Schwinn. :mrgreen: :mrgreen:
 
Forgot to mention, span 3 ceiling joists, they are typically spaced 24" on center as well as the roof trusses. Happy building to you! :mrgreen:
 
it wont ever work. it will make your whole garage collapse. maybe even your house. better just box em up and send em to me for safe keeping. by the way, looks like you got too many tools also, box em up too. :lol:
seriously, i think youll have no problem with your idea. just remember to duck!
 
Slick Rick said:
You really would not want to use lag bolts larger than 1/4" in diameter if you were to use this method to attach your "stringer". As previously stated,braces made from 2" x" 4" dimensional lumber cut and attached to the roof trusses and ceiling joists (verticallly spanning) and attached with 3 1/2" #10 primeguard screws would signifigantly increase your "load bearing" capability. If it were me, I would use the same 3 1/2" #10 screws to attach my 2" x 6" stringer to the underside of the ceiling joists.If your using a drill to fab this up its a good idea to pre-drill pilot holles and counter sink the face surface. It makes it much easier on you and your drill, but if you are lucky enough to have a small cordless impact driver, go ahead and let that lil beast do its thang and enjoy the show! No pre-drill countersink muss or fuss, just a lil testosterone spike! :mrgreen: As far as weight concerns, a typical attic mounted air handler is in the 200 to 275lb. range. We remove the old ones and install the new ones using 2 roof trusses to suspend them from all the time! Hope this helped, Later & PEACE!!!!!
:D :D :D :D
 
shouldn't be a problem, if you can get into the space above the rafters you may put some bolts and big washers through the rafter and hang the board to further spread the load but you should be okay. a garage is built A LOT better than my cheap tin can of a shed and I got 11 bike frames hanging from it just fine.
 
Slick Rick said:
Forgot to mention, span 3 ceiling joists, they are typically spaced 24" on center as well as the roof trusses. Happy building to you! :mrgreen:

...oh you're right, it is 24" OC...unless you live in a very old house like mine here in Pennsylvania (built in the 40's pre-drywall days) most of the houses I renovated here are 16" - 24" OC In the ceiling joist which was the standard back in the day...your garage looks too new. :mrgreen:
 
It'll work!
adamtinkererscollection2009-1.jpg
This was my shed at my old house, specifically built by me as a bike shed! The noly thing to keep in mind is to make sure your bolts/screws are dead center in the ceiling joists.-Adam
 
fyi, up here in canada, everything is 16" centers (code)
my batt's died in my keyboard earlier (hense the smilie faces in my first post)

3 joists,3 screws per (3.5") should be more than enough.
the bicycle hooks will want to pull out of the 2x6 long before it wants to fall on your head. :lol:
 
16 on center here in Indiana code for the roof. Like Slik Rick says use 3 1/2 inch screws and span 3 rafters. Check your rafters to see if they are engineered I beam style or real wood. If they are Engineered you may want to install nailers between them in the attic. Either way it will work and my not fall for a long time.
 
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