the best way to push in tubing

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Larry

Larry

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I need to hammer in a little clearance on my rear stays. I'm afraid of bending the entire tube. Any ideas on how to dent in the tubes without screwing up frame alignment?

Should I cut in a small lengthwise slit on the inside of the stays where I want to indent it?

I was also thinking about drilling tiny holes every 1/4" or so around the area that I want to smush in, to work like perforated paper.

I want to push in about a 1/4" for about 1" in length on the seat stays and the chain stays.

Anybody good with tubing?

tight.jpg
 
I dont know if I would risk it...what about adding a link to the chain and bringing the tire/rim back more?
 
Markm said:
I dont know if I would risk it...what about adding a link to the chain and bringing the tire/rim back more?
Click to expand...
Thats on my short list also. I'm as far back as I can get in the dropouts. I going to file a little more room and add a half link of chain, but, I'll still need to get more clearance at the tires widest point.
 
i had to bend some stuff today, solid metal, not tubing, i found that foucused heat was the key. put a torch on it and tap lightly?
 
IFF YOU HAVEN'T YET

Here is what I have done on most of my bike that I run 24x3s...Yes I know you bike shop guys probably have some special tool, but this is how I've done it. Mark where the tire rubs the bike frame, heat up the rear legs top and bottom where marked . Lay the frame on its side [with boots on] step on side touching ground, pull up side of rear frame facing up...just a little... turn frame over step on frame side touching ground pull up on side in facing up..just a little [ I usually draw a straight line on the ground for center] stand frame up center on line. After frame is wide enough put in 2 1/2 " to 3" metal pipe ...yes I some times use a BIG O HAMMER to "fit "it to my marks, then same as to widen out, reverse lay on side and push down bending back a little at a time around pipe until both sides stays are at proper width pull pipe out stand up on chalk line to check and insert 24x3 wheel 8)
 
I use an adjustable coil spring spacer I got at NAPA for like 8 bucks
it wont smash the tubing but you really dont want to smash it because you will loose strength
its nice because you can go nice and slowly:)

G_15888G_CL_1.jpg
 
Hooch said:
I use an adjustable coil spring spacer I got at NAPA for like 8 bucks
it wont smash the tubing but you really dont want to smash it because you will loose strength
its nice because you can go nice and slowly:)

G_15888G_CL_1.jpg
Click to expand...

If you did want to smash it or leave an impression in the steel
..you could use what Hooch just showed above, and clamp the outer edge
of both drop outs.So that when you adjust The tool Hooch just showed, The outside edges are fixed and the tool will leave Dents on the
inside of the drop out / down tubes.

Those look handy Hooch,
thanks for posting them.

Kev.
 
Thanks for the good ideas.

The coil spring spacer would have worked great, my local auto parts store didn't have that kind in stock. So i used visegrips and an old valve spring compressor. With an old axle bolted up tight in the drop outs. I wrapped the stays with electrical tape where I was working to keep tooth marks to a minimum. I used the metal bar on the outside of the stays to keep that side from crushing and visegripped the tubing in a little at a time.

It worked like a charm.

visegrip.jpg

seatstay.jpg

chainstay.jpg
 
Sorry to drag up an old thread, but my 24" Kraze doesn't fit on my middleweight frame. Shaved the edges off the tires still didnt work. So I think I will try Larry's method of denting the tubing. Did you heat the frame to dent or is that work all done cold?

I also need to tru the wheel up.
 
Go slow and you should be fine. I marked a line on the visegrip knob and clamped down with 1/4 turns on the knob. It took about a 50 clamps a stay working up & down the stay.

Having a solid piece of metal as a splint to keep the outside from collapsing is key too.
 
doin` some necro-posting ;-)


i have two bikes and want to switch the wheels around, both 24 x 3 fatty`s
the bike frames are identical (1 jeremy 1 speed, 1 jeremy 3 speed )

want to put the wheels with the nexus 3 speed in the other, (one frame is rotten) problem is:
the frame with the 3 speed in it is 1cm wider on th erear than the single speed frame.

do i have to widen/stretch this first (that 1cm) or just put a little strength in it :mrgreen:
and as soon as the wheel goes in i`m ok?

on the other bike when switching the wheels,
can I just tighten the screws to make up for that 1cm which is wider?
 
I have a home made "Dimple" tool that I have used on many hundreds of frames. This tool ended up being used in a production environment by several small bicycle companies. When used with care it has even added chainstay dimples to painted frames without damage.

If anyone is interested I will post photos.
Curtis
 
fogg said:
. . . can I just tighten the screws to make up for that 1cm which is wider?
Click to expand...

This post was about gaining tire clearance between the stays of the frame.
If you are asking about fitting a different hub width between your dropouts, then yes, for 10mm you can simply pull the frame apart enough while fitting your wheel. you shouldn't need to modify your frame. Stick the wheel in and tighten the axle nuts.
 
c.p.odom said:
I have a home made "Dimple" tool that I have used on many hundreds of frames. This tool ended up being used in a production environment by several small bicycle companies. When used with care it has even added chainstay dimples to painted frames without damage.

If anyone is interested I will post photos.
Curtis
Click to expand...

Let's see it please.
 
Here is the dimple tool I made some decades ago. It was quickly cobbled together as a test. It worked so well that I never remade it. It has been used on hundreds of frames, mild steel, chromoly, aluminum, and titanium. You can made very small dimples or very long and deep ones. With the cradle padded and the mandrel greased you can dimple painted frames. The dimples are very professional looking.

dimple-1.jpg

dimple-2.jpg
 
problem: not wide enough rear stay for fatter tires?

A cheap way is to get a threaded rod (sized to fit dropout opening) with some nuts to fit on the rod,from hardware store or from Home Depot. spin on 2 nuts on the threaded rod, enough that they are within the dropouts. now tighten both nuts againist the inside of the dropouts. Gradually with 2 wrenches tighten the nut against the dropouts, thus pushing the dropouts apart(wider), do this till you got the desire opening plus a little more as the frame will spring back a bit when the tension is released. Also you can heat the stays(chain and seat) with some heat to help.

Jerry
 
^^That's a good idea :) i was planning to use heat and hammer in a conical shaped 2x4 to widening it ,then leave it there while using a threaded rod to bring back the dropouts closer
but your idea should be more precice
 

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