Schwinn Drop Out - Finished, just need to take some pics.

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Yep. Digging the gold....
dean-martins-golddiggers-maria-lauren1.jpg
 
Okay Gow,

I NEED to know the paint color for this!!! I have a Spaceliner frame that I want to build into a 60's hot rod bike....and that color is IT!!!
 
brett4christ said:
Okay Gow,

I NEED to know the paint color for this!!! I have a Spaceliner frame that I want to build into a 60's hot rod bike....and that color is IT!!!
Click to expand...
The paint rundown is a little complicated, but if you know what the section of the frame is that you want to recreate, it shouldn't be difficult.
The first color that I laid down was a coat of VHT Engine Metallics Burnt Copper. I basically sprayed it everywhere except the downtube and seattube.
I followed it up with the main color, Duplicolor Performance Wheel Gold. I shot most of the bike with this, being careful to fade out to the orange along the tank sides, rear dropouts/stays and the very front edge of the headtube.
Now, what really made everything pop was the two coats of Roth Flake Rattle Bombs All-In-One "Daffodil Killer" yellow-gold. This is a metalflake, pearl and candy all in one can, so it self-levels well and can look pretty great over a bunch of different base colors. http://rothmetalflake.com/4-rattle-bombs
To really bring out the "lime gold" look that I was going for, I shot a light coat of Roth Flake Rattle Bombs Pearls "Finkster Green" over the gold areas. This is a flip-flop pearl suspended in a clear carrier, so it really only shows up under direct lighting, and only from certain angles.
I coated the whole thing in 2K clear, but I think any decent clear would work. Duplicolor/VHT paints seem to play well with the Roth Flake Rattle Bombs. I wouldn't recommend trying to put them over cheaper brands like Rustoleum or Krylon, but if you do, I'd test shoot the combination on a scrap, and watch for unwanted reactions (wrinkling, crazing, etc.).

Hope that this helps.
 
Last edited:
gowjobs said:
The paint rundown is a little complicated, but if you know what the section of the frame is that you want to recreate, it shouldn't be difficult.
The first color that I laid down was a coat of VHT Engine Metallics Burnt Copper. I basically sprayed it everywhere except the downtube and seattube.
I followed it up with the main color, Duplicolor Performance Wheel Gold. I shot most of the bike with this, being careful to fade out to the orange along the tank sides, rear dropouts/stays and the very front edge of the headtube.
Now, what really made everything pop was the two coats of Roth Flake Rattle Bombs All-In-One "Daffodil Killer" yellow-gold. This is a metalflake, pearl and candy all in one can, so it self-levels well and can look pretty great over a bunch of different base colors. http://rothmetalflake.com/4-rattle-bombs
To really bring out the "lime gold" look that I was going for, I shot a light coat of Roth Flake Rattle Bombs Pearls "Finkster Green" over the gold areas. This is a flip-flop pearl suspended in a clear carrier, so it really only shows up under direct lighting, and only from certain angles.
I coated the whole thing in 2K clear, but I think any decent clear would work. Duplicolor/VHT paints seem to play well with the Roth Flake Rattle Bombs. I wouldn't recommend trying to put them over cheaper brands like Rustoleum or Krylon, but if you do, I'd test shoot the combination on a scrap, and watch for unwanted reactions (wrinkling, crazing, etc.).

Hope that this helps.
Click to expand...

Thanks Gow!

I'll read this a couple times to be sure I get what I want.

Stellar job, my friend!
 
brett4christ said:
Thanks Gow!

I'll read this a couple times to be sure I get what I want.

Stellar job, my friend!
Click to expand...
Just know that these Roth Flake paints will fool you a little. They dry with a semi-gloss finish, and really don't come into their own until you lay the gloss clearcoat on top, at which point, they POP like crazy, visually.
 
The more that I look at the pics and think about what the frame looked like when shoved in the corner to dry/cure in safety. the more I am considering ditching the clip-ons for polished aluminum risers and a chrome drag handlebar. My original plan was to sew a leather collar (matching my brown Brooks saddle) on the frame forward of the tank to protect from the clip-ons/fork chipping the paint at full-lock. However, the organic, flowing shape created between the headtube, top tube and tank would really be a shame to cover up. If I ditch the clip-ons, I can sew leather sleeves around the top of the fork legs to serve the same purpose, leaving the bodywork/paint exposed, PLUS I will have a more comfortable riding position.
I have a couple of days to decide. The clip-ons were a great idea, but taking the whole project into consideration, I'm not convinced that they're the best option.
 
w0wos.jpg
 
I like your thinking. Who need bars, just put grips on the fork and steer that way. :D
 
Missing Link said:
I've gotta say, I'll miss the clip ons but those leather sleeves are so sick! I can't wait to see this one put together.
Click to expand...
Thanks! Me too. Waiting to start assembling it has been stressing me out. I'm not that patient by nature, but I'm forcing myself to wait, for the sake of the final product. I still need to solder up the headlight switch/battery/LED conversion, too. Maybe I can get to that later tonight, so I can try to finish the headlight mount tomorrow night.
That will leave me Friday night and Saturday to finish overall assembly, get to sleep early, and leave well before dawn to drive up to San Jose. I'll keep posting pics of my progress as I make some, but as I'm shooting at night and in the mornings before work right now, don't expect them to be of high quality.
 

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