Oriolus Rattus- photo update, call it done 6/17 - I lied 8/5
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Re: Tuco (known as "The Rat")
Yeah! I love this build... how does it ride with that chainring setup? You must have to work pretty hard to peddle, don't you? I love those badges, the light setup is sweet, and...
GOOD TASTE IN MOVIES! :lol: Clint Eastwood is the man... cool to name a build after a character from one of his classics.
Yeah! I love this build... how does it ride with that chainring setup? You must have to work pretty hard to peddle, don't you? I love those badges, the light setup is sweet, and...
GOOD TASTE IN MOVIES! :lol: Clint Eastwood is the man... cool to name a build after a character from one of his classics.
Re: Tuco (known as "The Rat")
Thanks!
It's actually an easy pedaler the gearing is 30/13 which if you scale it up is like a 45/19.5 but with a smaller back wheel 1" less diameter than a 26" it probably feels closer to 45/21 pretty close to what I consider ideal cruiser gearing 2:1.
Bit of a Sergio Leone "Spaghetti Western" fan, have a bunch of`em, but "The Good, the Bad, & the Ugly" and "Once Upon a TIme in the West" always find myself going back and watching those 2.
Markm said:
Unchained said:
Thanks!
It's actually an easy pedaler the gearing is 30/13 which if you scale it up is like a 45/19.5 but with a smaller back wheel 1" less diameter than a 26" it probably feels closer to 45/21 pretty close to what I consider ideal cruiser gearing 2:1.
Bit of a Sergio Leone "Spaghetti Western" fan, have a bunch of`em, but "The Good, the Bad, & the Ugly" and "Once Upon a TIme in the West" always find myself going back and watching those 2.
Re: Tuco (known as "The Rat")
love the micro drive it is one of the trends that i think will be the next big thing in cruisers as soon as all of us soak up all the good skip link stuff :mrgreen: you could go smaller with a cassette rear wheel they make down to a 11 or even better a bmx driver hub goes down to an 8 then you can do a 25 front. awsome bike and that frame is just money~!!!
love the micro drive it is one of the trends that i think will be the next big thing in cruisers as soon as all of us soak up all the good skip link stuff :mrgreen: you could go smaller with a cassette rear wheel they make down to a 11 or even better a bmx driver hub goes down to an 8 then you can do a 25 front. awsome bike and that frame is just money~!!!
Re: Tuco (known as "The Rat")
I defintely like the look, but I don't think you want to go below 11 on the back for a 26 inch wheel that would start getting to be a hard pedal very quickly. A 25/8 combo is nearly the same as 26/9 skip tooth basically for 26ers( a little harder really), 20inch bmx get away with it due to the small wheel. I can get 12t cogs for coaster hub so a 25t is doable for 26inch wheel and I'm going to on my next prewar frame.
karfer67 said:
I defintely like the look, but I don't think you want to go below 11 on the back for a 26 inch wheel that would start getting to be a hard pedal very quickly. A 25/8 combo is nearly the same as 26/9 skip tooth basically for 26ers( a little harder really), 20inch bmx get away with it due to the small wheel. I can get 12t cogs for coaster hub so a 25t is doable for 26inch wheel and I'm going to on my next prewar frame.
Re: Tuco (known as "The Rat")
Got the headlamp in and I think it's gonna work really well, mocked it up below. Light is actually really bright for old stuff, but gonna put a 1W LED in there. After a little Teflon dry lube switch works very nicely and I can get the front lens off. Definitely need to shorten the cord by about 3 foot plus and find a suitable old school looking mounting method, maybe some copper strapping. Might even mount it horizontally from teh lower tube.
Got the headlamp in and I think it's gonna work really well, mocked it up below. Light is actually really bright for old stuff, but gonna put a 1W LED in there. After a little Teflon dry lube switch works very nicely and I can get the front lens off. Definitely need to shorten the cord by about 3 foot plus and find a suitable old school looking mounting method, maybe some copper strapping. Might even mount it horizontally from teh lower tube.
Re: Tuco (known as "The Rat") - update 5/27
That's awesome! I really dig the position and look of the light. If you mounted the battery holder on the upper portion of the seat post tube, couldn't you tie the cable off along the frame in some kind of appropriate fashion and save the wire from being trimmed down some?
That's awesome! I really dig the position and look of the light. If you mounted the battery holder on the upper portion of the seat post tube, couldn't you tie the cable off along the frame in some kind of appropriate fashion and save the wire from being trimmed down some?
Re: Tuco (known as "The Rat") - update 5/27
Ha, read my mind. Actually I was just installing a kickstand got off the bay for $7 kind of like a sprague, but bolt-on and started moving the box around to the back of the seatpost which I think I like better anyway(might move it closer to the seat though it's straighter right there) leaves the bars clean, but that still leaves about 2ft excess power cord, it's 4ft long on the dot.
Unchained said:
Ha, read my mind. Actually I was just installing a kickstand got off the bay for $7 kind of like a sprague, but bolt-on and started moving the box around to the back of the seatpost which I think I like better anyway(might move it closer to the seat though it's straighter right there) leaves the bars clean, but that still leaves about 2ft excess power cord, it's 4ft long on the dot.
Re: Tuco (known as "The Rat") - update 5/27
A bit of progress on lighting, had to grind off therivets attaching the headband then able to use finsih screws and cable clamps to mount to struts.
Used a couple of bucks worth of conduit hangers to make mounting brackets for the battery holder, need to paint them black or something maybe do some faux aging.
Ahh, LED brightness. Still want to find some smaller 2-counductor wire the original is thick as a heavy appliance cord.
A bit of progress on lighting, had to grind off therivets attaching the headband then able to use finsih screws and cable clamps to mount to struts.
Used a couple of bucks worth of conduit hangers to make mounting brackets for the battery holder, need to paint them black or something maybe do some faux aging.
Ahh, LED brightness. Still want to find some smaller 2-counductor wire the original is thick as a heavy appliance cord.
Re: Tuco (known as "The Rat") - update 5/31
Prepped the mounting brackets with some self etching primer, then a bunch of coats of ruddy brown primer I think it was called, some appliance epoxy, then will thro some semi-flat enamel on and san down to hopefully match the battry can a bit for patina. Intentionally going for a rough appearance so I'm just shooting them on the paper and roll around a bit.
Hit the frame with some rustoleum rust inhibitor, gave the frame colors some depth, bad lighting after sunset but what the heck
Prepped the mounting brackets with some self etching primer, then a bunch of coats of ruddy brown primer I think it was called, some appliance epoxy, then will thro some semi-flat enamel on and san down to hopefully match the battry can a bit for patina. Intentionally going for a rough appearance so I'm just shooting them on the paper and roll around a bit.
Hit the frame with some rustoleum rust inhibitor, gave the frame colors some depth, bad lighting after sunset but what the heck
Re: Tuco (known as "The Rat") - small update 6/8
We have our first cruise night of the summer coming up tomorrow so I wanted to get this thing done, still need to rig up something better for the rear light but needed it nighttime legal for tomorrow LED conversion of an old dynamo taillight had it on my Rat Rod Lincoln build, and using cheesey zip ties for cable tie down. At least now I can get back to my RRBBO4 build.
Ugly side
Close-up of battery container an old USN headlamp battery box holds 4 D-cells
Headlamp converted to headlight service with help of a 1W LED
Close-up of rear light positioned as if a dynamo job
We have our first cruise night of the summer coming up tomorrow so I wanted to get this thing done, still need to rig up something better for the rear light but needed it nighttime legal for tomorrow LED conversion of an old dynamo taillight had it on my Rat Rod Lincoln build, and using cheesey zip ties for cable tie down. At least now I can get back to my RRBBO4 build.
Ugly side
Close-up of battery container an old USN headlamp battery box holds 4 D-cells
Headlamp converted to headlight service with help of a 1W LED
Close-up of rear light positioned as if a dynamo job
So the last tail light was a temp and the wiring was held by zip ties, not very stylish. Found a proper rear light from a trailer or something with the right amount of rust, then while at Frys looking for some swithces and stuff to do an LED conversion, found these little bullet lights for $1.99, much easier if it fit.
Some cutting, trimming, filing, and super glue
Also re-wired the front light with some cloth covered wire and was then able to use frame clips to secure them
Now have some proper lighting
Some cutting, trimming, filing, and super glue
Also re-wired the front light with some cloth covered wire and was then able to use frame clips to secure them
Now have some proper lighting
Man that's awesome! It's got a bit of an old locomotive look to it.. Coool 8) 8)
Love the frame. :mrgreen: :mrgreen:
Alright never thought about it like thatcrackedpiston said:
Uncle Stretch said:
Oh yeah, 26 inch top tube I bet you would
This bike is awesome! Look at that bottom bracket clearance! wow. So now I'm really curious about this micro drive setup. I feel so slow on my bike -- it would be nice to be a bit faster. Any good info on the micro drive setup?
sprucemoose said:
Thanks. Do you mean faster acceleration or top-speed faster? For coaster brake hubs about the smallest cog I've found is a 12t made by Kore, this bike has a 30t up front and 14t in the back, originally I had it at 30t/13t but with the pedals so far out front of the saddle going up hills was rough on the lower back so I lowered the gearing a tad, about perfect now. There are BMX hubs that go down to 8t/9t/11t etc but they are freehubs typically so even with a 25t or even 22t up front you could have some top-end speed. The other thing is alot of the front sprockets are made for 3 pc BMX cranks so the hole is made for 19/22mm spindles and won't fit a one-piece crank so watch out when ordering, you can get adapters to go the other way though.
BoLiles said:
Thanks, rides great too
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