Mofo / MoFaux 8/1 They're Done!
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Re: Mofo (name change) a.k.a. Mustgo
Very nice! Its hard to tell... Did you use "krinkle paint" for the black?
Very nice! Its hard to tell... Did you use "krinkle paint" for the black?
Mofo (name change) a.k.a. Mustgo
yes shaaaaaaare.....fordsnake said:
Re: Mofo (name change) a.k.a. Mustgo
Yes, share, and can you share how you did your pattern masking?
Yes, share, and can you share how you did your pattern masking?
Re: Mofo (name change) a.k.a. Mustgo
That looks great! Nice job on the paint!
That looks great! Nice job on the paint!
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Re: Mofo (name change) a.k.a. Mustgo
Like everything new…it’s trial and error before you achieve the desire results.
The following is a technique I recently discovered while experimenting in my garage and liked the outcome. It’s rather simple, you’ll need three rattle cans: a primer, two colors similar in hue, a tube of acrylic (dark brown) paint and a spray bottle of Windex. The Windex separates the paint, given it a patina much like “old” paint on metal. If you ever look at “aged” paint, you’ll notice the top paint layer has dried out separating and exposing a base (primer) coat underneath. This is especially evident with “crackling” paint. Caveat: I encourage you to practice on sample pieces first. Good Luck!
A. I personally like Krylon spray paint (incredible palette of colors). But this technique should work for any brand name.
B. First prime the object and allow it to dry.
C. My goal was to expose the primer without painting an opaque top layer.
I next gathered my first paint color and a spray bottle of Windex.
D. After the primer has dried, I sprayed the object liberally with Windex, then lightly sprayed my first coat of paint on while the object was soaked with the Windex. The paint will bead up and separate as the Windex dries. Also what’s cool is that you can manipulate the paint’s direction with the window washer.
E. While the first coat is still wet, I sprayed the second color of paint…continuing spraying the Windex. You should have some nice separation and primer peeking through.
F. Illustrates the light colored fender prior to the water base acrylic application.
G. The tank after the acrylic effect.
I.–J. To create the effect, apply the Windex liberally, and —while wet apply the dark brown acrylic.
K. Continuing washing the acrylic with the Windex for desire effect and allow it to dry.
This same application was used for stenciling on the black paint.
Critter1 said:
Like everything new…it’s trial and error before you achieve the desire results.
The following is a technique I recently discovered while experimenting in my garage and liked the outcome. It’s rather simple, you’ll need three rattle cans: a primer, two colors similar in hue, a tube of acrylic (dark brown) paint and a spray bottle of Windex. The Windex separates the paint, given it a patina much like “old” paint on metal. If you ever look at “aged” paint, you’ll notice the top paint layer has dried out separating and exposing a base (primer) coat underneath. This is especially evident with “crackling” paint. Caveat: I encourage you to practice on sample pieces first. Good Luck!
A. I personally like Krylon spray paint (incredible palette of colors). But this technique should work for any brand name.
B. First prime the object and allow it to dry.
C. My goal was to expose the primer without painting an opaque top layer.
I next gathered my first paint color and a spray bottle of Windex.
D. After the primer has dried, I sprayed the object liberally with Windex, then lightly sprayed my first coat of paint on while the object was soaked with the Windex. The paint will bead up and separate as the Windex dries. Also what’s cool is that you can manipulate the paint’s direction with the window washer.
E. While the first coat is still wet, I sprayed the second color of paint…continuing spraying the Windex. You should have some nice separation and primer peeking through.
F. Illustrates the light colored fender prior to the water base acrylic application.
G. The tank after the acrylic effect.
I.–J. To create the effect, apply the Windex liberally, and —while wet apply the dark brown acrylic.
K. Continuing washing the acrylic with the Windex for desire effect and allow it to dry.
This same application was used for stenciling on the black paint.
Re: Mofo (name change) a.k.a. Mustgo
That's a very striking look :!:
That's a very striking look :!:
yoothgeye
I build stuff.
Re: Mofo (name change) a.k.a. Mustgo
I want to keep up with all the builds this year (like this one) not just to see how the "competition" is building, but also to learn all these cool techniques! Awesome.
I want to keep up with all the builds this year (like this one) not just to see how the "competition" is building, but also to learn all these cool techniques! Awesome.
Re: Mofo (name change) a.k.a. Mustgo
I agree, that's part of the fun to me. Wicked skillz and ideas all over this build off.
The people that only see the "Finished Bikes" pages during the voting are only seeing 25% of what this build off is about!!!!!!
yoothgeye said:
I agree, that's part of the fun to me. Wicked skillz and ideas all over this build off.
The people that only see the "Finished Bikes" pages during the voting are only seeing 25% of what this build off is about!!!!!!
Re: Mustgo
That is great. It is obvious from your build you have a good eye! These tanks and fenders are amazing, and what a great technique. This build is getting high marks.
Thanks for the kind words on my illustration. I am mostly in the publishing world rather than advertising world, but there is some cross over. Heh, Sometime I should tell you about the CRAZY idea the donny deutsch agency contacted me about illustrating for the popular God of War video game campaign.... :shock: Needless to say, it was too crazy too actually do it.
fordsnake said:
That is great. It is obvious from your build you have a good eye! These tanks and fenders are amazing, and what a great technique. This build is getting high marks.
Thanks for the kind words on my illustration. I am mostly in the publishing world rather than advertising world, but there is some cross over. Heh, Sometime I should tell you about the CRAZY idea the donny deutsch agency contacted me about illustrating for the popular God of War video game campaign.... :shock: Needless to say, it was too crazy too actually do it.
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Re: Mofo (name change) a.k.a. Mustgo
I finally ran into a problem on the build...that large chainring isn't going to work. First, I indented the frame to give the sprocket relief...that wasn't enough so I added a washer under the racer to bump the sprocket away from the frame...sadly, this knocks the chain out of alignment. And if I remove the washer then the sprocket rubs against the frame. Oh well, I have other alternative chainrings, but nothing as cool as that big sucka!
I finally ran into a problem on the build...that large chainring isn't going to work. First, I indented the frame to give the sprocket relief...that wasn't enough so I added a washer under the racer to bump the sprocket away from the frame...sadly, this knocks the chain out of alignment. And if I remove the washer then the sprocket rubs against the frame. Oh well, I have other alternative chainrings, but nothing as cool as that big sucka!
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Re: Mofo (name change) a.k.a. Mustgo
Sometimes placing washers on the rear axel INSIDE the frame can change the alignment of your chain & sprockets. Don't be afraid to experiment with multiple washers on either side and both sides. On my RRBBO5 Build I used 26x2.35 Fat Franks on brand new 26x2.35 Rims which made the tires wider than on 1.75 Rims. I ended up with clearance problems with the chain, tire and stays. I put 3 washers on the brake arm side of the axel inside the frame and then trued the wheel towards the brake arm side also. The washers pushed the hub towards the crank side enough that after I trued the wheel the opposite direction towards the brake arm I got just enough clearance that nothing rubbed.
I'm not saying this will work for all frames under all conditions but it might be worth your time to experiment if you really want to use that chain ring. Good Luck and Have Fun! Robert
Sometimes placing washers on the rear axel INSIDE the frame can change the alignment of your chain & sprockets. Don't be afraid to experiment with multiple washers on either side and both sides. On my RRBBO5 Build I used 26x2.35 Fat Franks on brand new 26x2.35 Rims which made the tires wider than on 1.75 Rims. I ended up with clearance problems with the chain, tire and stays. I put 3 washers on the brake arm side of the axel inside the frame and then trued the wheel towards the brake arm side also. The washers pushed the hub towards the crank side enough that after I trued the wheel the opposite direction towards the brake arm I got just enough clearance that nothing rubbed.
I'm not saying this will work for all frames under all conditions but it might be worth your time to experiment if you really want to use that chain ring. Good Luck and Have Fun! Robert
