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There are four 20" bikes listed in the July 63 price sheet, with 2 more in the special section.

2v02649.jpg
 
I will get all the paint off the dropout and get the serial # 100% there might be another number under the paint that i can't see might explain the Scrambler fork on it. The pic i have up is bad too, i will try to get some better pics. Also the seat stay and chain stays are really crappy looking on the wheel side like it was welded by hand, not that it looks like someone cut the frame or anything that welds are all that great.
 
peacefrog said:
I will get all the paint off the dropout and get the serial # 100% there might be another number under the paint that i can't see might explain the Scrambler fork on it. The pic i have up is bad too, i will try to get some better pics. Also the seat stay and chain stays are really crappy looking on the wheel side like it was welded by hand, not that it looks like someone cut the frame or anything that welds are all that great.
The serial numbers only provide the month and year of manufacture not model etc.
The forks are traditional schwinn forks from what i can see,appears to have arrows still visible on the forks.
Id agree its a Typhoon.

Even if they were scrambler forks it would only mean it was BMX'd during the craze of modifying stingrays and the like,in the mid/late 70's.

keep saving those bike bro!!good work
 
Xcruiser said:
peacefrog said:
I will get all the paint off the dropout and get the serial # 100% there might be another number under the paint that i can't see might explain the Scrambler fork on it. The pic i have up is bad too, i will try to get some better pics. Also the seat stay and chain stays are really crappy looking on the wheel side like it was welded by hand, not that it looks like someone cut the frame or anything that welds are all that great.
The serial numbers only provide the month and year of manufacture not model etc.
The forks are traditional schwinn forks from what i can see,appears to have arrows still visible on the forks.
Id agree its a Typhoon.

Even if they were scrambler forks it would only mean it was BMX'd during the craze of modifying stingrays and the like,in the mid/late 70's.

keep saving those bike bro!!good work

OK i had my wife get the serial numbers again with a magnifying glass, its the same. I will agree its a 20" Typhoon, are the desirable or worth messing around with. Might end up selling it to fund another purchase i've been looking at a 1931 elgin.
 
ANY old schwinn is worth saving!!I think you found one heck of a frame,20" Typhoons dont come around often.
Hopefully you dont get to confused by all the great info on what to look for.
Id say if it looks old or interesting just grab it ,take it home,look for info online and if its nothing it goes back to scrap lol.

muscle bikes
ballooners/heavyweights
middle weights
light weights/road bikes
70's-80's-90's bmx are very hot right now

I envy your job bro!!!!!!
 
The easiest way is to look at the details, if the welds are good, any engraved maker's mark, gussets, high end components, tanks, also if derailurs and shifters are the cheaper bolt on or are the shifters braised onto the frame or good brands like:

Road bikes:
Fuji
Cannondale
Schwinn
Campagnola
Raleigh
Trek

BMX bikes:
Redline
Hutch
Some Mongoose
Anything with a loop tail
Dyno
GT
Kastan
Webco

Cruisers:
Anything with a tank
Any Schwinn
Anything with a springer
Anything with multiple top tubes (Spaceliner, Flightliner, Hawthorne, exc.)
 
Been kinda slow at work with the prices, scored a couple road bike this week. Go a pre-nishiki American Eagle raod bike. Has alot of chrome clips for cables because it doesn't have braze on guides. Same with a Gitane road bike that came in scored some nice parts and both have half paint/half chrome forks. I will try to post some pics.
 
Scored a nice 1986 Mongoose ATB pro yesterday, built like a tank, but the only thing is it has a 23" seat tube and 7.5 steer tube. I would keep it but its way way to big of a bike for me but its nice and chrome. Not a dent or scratch on it. Not sure what its worth

ATB1.jpg


ATB2.jpg
 
outskirtscustoms said:
The easiest way is to look at the details, if the welds are good, any engraved maker's mark, gussets, high end components, tanks, also if derailurs and shifters are the cheaper bolt on or are the shifters braised onto the frame or good brands like:

Road bikes:
Fuji
Cannondale
Schwinn
Campagnola
Raleigh
Trek

BMX bikes:
Redline
Hutch
Some Mongoose
Anything with a loop tail
Dyno
GT
Kastan
Webco

Cruisers:
Anything with a tank
Any Schwinn
Anything with a springer
Anything with multiple top tubes (Spaceliner, Flightliner, Hawthorne, exc.)


What is a "loop tail" on a BMX?
 
OutlawAlice said:
outskirtscustoms said:
The easiest way is to look at the details, if the welds are good, any engraved maker's mark, gussets, high end components, tanks, also if derailurs and shifters are the cheaper bolt on or are the shifters braised onto the frame or good brands like:

Road bikes:
Fuji
Cannondale
Schwinn
Campagnola
Raleigh
Trek

BMX bikes:
Redline
Hutch
Some Mongoose
Anything with a loop tail
Dyno
GT
Kastan
Webco

Cruisers:
Anything with a tank
Any Schwinn
Anything with a springer
Anything with multiple top tubes (Spaceliner, Flightliner, Hawthorne, exc.)


What is a "loop tail" on a BMX?


this is a looptail


pk.jpg
 
peacefrog said:
CRASH said:
I'm 6'4" and a 23" frame is about 2 inches too big for me.

Its kinda weird, wonder y they would make it that big, i measured it again and its right at 23inches
You measured from the middle of the BB, up the seat tube, to the middle of where the TT meets?

I'm sure you did, because that frame looks absolutely huge. Why did they make them that big? Because there are guys taller than I am, believe it or not. But you would have a very specialized market trying to find a guy that tall who would want to build an old mtn bike frame up.

I would think you would be much better off selling all that steel to a guy wanting to do a project and needs those tubes to cut up.
 

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