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I'm going as far as Illinois but may also be going to Texas so most of the western 2/3 of the country is fair game. I like to keep my road trip agendas pretty flexible. I'm going to be bringing a mountain bike this time, maybe my current Retro Therapy GT, and try to hit some bike parks along the way.
MattiThundrrr
Rattus All Terrainus
My wife told me something that helped me to clear out a bunch of bikes from the garage: "stop wasting your time trying to fix junk"
I'm not calling your bike garbage, but it's good to consider whether it is worth your time. How much would another used frame cost vs how much time and effort to fix plus the uncertainty of the quality of the repair.
To me, it's in a critical location, I've fixed bent stays before and re sized rear ends, but twisting the frame enough to crack welds at the head tube is serious business. Without getting a professional frame builder's advice, I don't know if I could trust it...
I'm not calling your bike garbage, but it's good to consider whether it is worth your time. How much would another used frame cost vs how much time and effort to fix plus the uncertainty of the quality of the repair.
To me, it's in a critical location, I've fixed bent stays before and re sized rear ends, but twisting the frame enough to crack welds at the head tube is serious business. Without getting a professional frame builder's advice, I don't know if I could trust it...
I have also found small deviations in steel frames. Pondo's frame is damaged beyond anything the manufacturer did. This frame can be repaired by Mikkelsen bike repair in Oakland if you are interested. He would dismount this tube and put a new one in I believe. Find him at E Mail: [email protected].
Haha!! I definitely see the logic in that. But fixing up old junk is something that I enjoy. I may just need better old junk.
I totally agree but I'm also a bit adventurous so....
You should make sure your path to Illinois takes you near @rickpaulos
He seems to have a copious supply of the good stuff
Thanks, that's a good resource, I'll definitely keep that in mind. If this was a valuable or significant old frame I would seek professional help but for this one I don't think it would be worth the $$.
I was thinking maybe I could just braze around the head tube joints for some preventive strength but maybe I'm just being silly.
Awesome, sounds like fun!You should make sure your path to Illinois takes you near @rickpaulos
He seems to have a copious supply of the good stuff
I think the lesson here is: there is often a reason these old bikes have been abandoned. I’ve been burnt myself several times. Your point is good about the damage being an indication that the bike took a serious hit. Might be something else wrong with it. If you’re planning on doing serious riding on this, I would look for something else.
I have to agree with the general consensus about saving this bike. There still are plenty of inexpensive used frames and forks to look at out there. I prefer steel frames and forks with no visible damage. When it comes to paint I am tending to get powder coats anymore because they are so real world durable. The painting has cost more than the frames and forks so far. On the other hand I would love a new Rivendell and my old frames and forks, powdercoated with a complete group on it are still a lot less expensive than a new Rivendell. So I guess you get to choose the money pain you are willing to endure for your hobby.
I'm with you. I like to build stuff and I like to save old bikes. How much does powdercoat cost for a frame?
But some of those newer frames are so cool. Rivendell makes some great stuff. The Rivendell Roadini is really nice. Frameset $1300
The Velo-Orange Rando frameset is on sale for $800
The Soma Jawbone frame is $800
Ron's Bikes Alumalith is an awesome frameset. But it's $2k
Crust bikes Wombat frameset is $875. There's a used one (frameset) a few hours away for $750, incl. shipping.
One of my faves, the Moné Bikes El Pebblito runs a cool $1825 with the carbon fork, but it is just awesome.
For that kind of money the Poseidon Redwood seems like a steal at $900 for the complete bike
Capt, you have one of these right? How do you like it?
I think a mid 90s Stumpjumper M2 frame would make a cool gravel bike but it's designed for 26" wheels so I think the biggest I might get away with would be 650b. It's probably best to stick to a frame designed for 700c wheels I think. I like the idea of finding something vintage and cool made with Reynolds or other good tubing. We'll see what turns up.
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Pondo, everybody has excellent points. I am a big believer in "warm and fuzzy" (confidence) feeling when I bolt a lot of parts on something I am going to be riding remotely. I would do a little of both trains of thought. Keep an eye out for a fun and cost effective replacement frame. In the interim, see if you can straighten it some, then buy a can of gas and some brazing rods for the head/top/down tube intersection you mentioned earlier. If it works out, that experience is another tool in your tool box. You may even decide to braze in a gusset or some other creative component.
I was actually thinking about brazing in a gusset and brazing around the joints like you suggest. Hmm, I may have to give that some more thought. Already shopping for a frame. I might build this up as a separate bike and see how it holds up.
Powdercoating by a good firm is expensive. I spent $300 coating my Varsity frame, fork, chainguard and Profile crank arms. However It soon became apparent to me that the paint was extremely durable. Little hits on the paint just don't faze it. Normally that would be a chip. If you spend that kind of money then you really like the bike and are keeping it because it will never pay for itself on resale. I've had the Varsity over 20 yrs and it is my most ridden bicycle. Then maybe powdercoating. This bike spends most of its time in the dirt.
Yep, I have a Redwood. It’s a monster truck
Upgrades in order
Seat - stock is worse than junk
Crankset - weighs at least 8000#
Wheels - just the basics (I have carbons in my cart but haven’t pulled the trigger yet)
Fork - again with the carbon and wallet remorse ^. Being aluminum it should help smooth the chunder chatter
The cotter crank bike I believe is some kind of Raleigh threading plus having to deal with the cotter pin. I don't have a cotter pin press which is necessary to properly remove/install the pins. There are a lot of cotter pin crank bikes out there and if one had the press and appropriate knowledge these would be a nice source of bikes. The Raleigh with the square taper crankset my be a normal English bottom bracket threading.
Very nice looking bike. I really like Surly bikes.
