1976 Raleigh Record

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I bought this bike either in the fall of '21 or spring of '22 as a cheap step into road bikes. I had never ridden a road bike before, but wanted to give it a shot. I had been (and still am) toying with the idea of using a bike to commute to work in the spring months, and I found this locally for $40 and I figured if nothing else, it could be a fun project that I could flip if I decided it wasn't for me.

I don't have any pics of the bike as it was when I picked it up, but it was a bit rough. Rideable in a pinch, but definitely in need of a tune up. The OG wheels were in need of truing, but the chrome wasn't too heavily pitted, there were no broken spokes, and the hubs were definitely still salvageable. Originally I decided I'd straighten them, service the bearings, and keep the wheels. The tires were a few years old but held air, so I was going to ride them until they became a problem. The brakes needed some minor adjustment and one of the crank arms was loose (which made for a wobbly test ride - especially given that the seat was jacked to the sky and I was only used to riding mountain bikes and cruisers). The OG bars had been swapped out for flat bars, which were fitted with cheap brake levers and worn out grips. The OG pedals had been swapped for newer (but cheap) cages. The OG seat had been swapped out. Everything else appeared original, and the heavy wear on the frame told me that the bike had seen serious amounts of use and love through the years; and probably a dash of neglect as well. It had been festooned with stickers, one of which was for a local used bike exchange shop. There are deep scars all over the frame, and the once bright yellow paint is worn and faded to nearly pastel, especially the rear triangle. It seemed the perfect platform for me to start with, so I brought it home.

I forget the exact order of things, but once it was home I started stripping and cleaning things up. I cleaned everything, trued the wheels, cleaned and greased all the bearings (surprised that none of the races were too far gone), got the cottered crank tightened up (quite a challenge, I think it had been ridden loose for about a thousand miles or so) and adjusted the brakes. Once this work was complete I got a sense for what really needed replacing. I was going to replace the bars because they just seemed too narrow, but figured I'd let that idea stew for a bit. I gave it new brake levers, grips, and brake pads. A few weeks later I tore into the bike again and started really fine-tuning the drivetrain, which seemed to act up after a mile or so.

This is where things got interesting.

It seemed to me that the chain was about one link too long, so I shortened it (first mistake). It turned out the chain was already as short as it could possibly be, so while pedaling the bike on the work stand with the shorter chain, I overextended the rear derailleur and broke it. This was easy enough to replace, $14 on Amazon got me a new SunRace RD-M10 unit that worked flawlessly with the OG downtube friction shifter. Next, while struggling to get the Simplex front derailleur to function smoothly, I decided I should (second mistake) remove it from the bike and really give it a deep clean. I had never seen a derailleur like this before. Pulling the cable in turn pulls a lever on the left-hand side downwards (towards the ground), which then pushes on a horizontal shaft, which is connected to the cage, thus moving the cage outwards (towards the larger chainring). Extra strange to me was that the cage moved out only - not up and out. I inspected the internals, which were really in fine shape, there was just a lot of crud built up. I gave it a cleaning and some oil and that was that. It was while reinstalling the front derailleur that I learned that the 45 year old plastic body had a crack in it, which immediately blew apart when tightening the clamp screws.

Here's the OG Simplex unit, after breaking the plastic body:

BrokenSimplex.jpg


I could not find a replacement derailleur (other than NOS units that were out of my price range for this bike) so I opted instead for a 1x5 drivetrain swap. I took the crank apart and removed the small ring, made some spacers to get the chainline just right, and rode it like this for a short time. It was kind of terrible, especially on hills.

Here it is mid tune up and in 1x5 mode. This also looks like the OG rear derailleur, clearly stretched to its limit (what was I thinking?!):

Tuneup.jpg


While trying to figure out what to do, I realized that the strange front derailleur was simple enough that I could probably make my own. I still had the old one, from which I was able to take a bunch of careful measurements. I grabbed a chunk of aluminum round stock and set to work on my little hobby lathe (which is also outfitted for use as a horizontal mill), eventually winding up with this.

NewDerailleur(1).png


NewDerailleur(2).jpg


NewDerailleur(3).png


It uses all the parts of the OG Simplex unit, except for the hardware, which was upgraded. I also machined a PTFE bushing that presses into the aluminum body, which makes the movement of the cage shaft buttery smooth. I spent many hours on this piece, but fully expected it to not work. I installed it on the bike, hooked up the cable, and...moment of truth...it worked flawlessly. I was over the moon. I immediately returned the crank to its OG state and rode the bike like this a few times more.

Now that I had a load of time invested into the bike, my thoughts of flipping it were out the door. I decided to replace the wheels with a set of WheelMaster Weinmann LP18's, also from Amazon, for $160. 14G stainless spokes, aluminum hoops, 5/6/7 speed freewheel compatible, quick release skewers, sealed bearings, and probably half the weight of the OG steel wheels. I was sad to be losing the big flanges, but the new wheels were beautiful right out the box. I wrapped them in new rim strips/tubes/tires and fitted a new Shimano 6 speed freehub, upping the ol' gal to 12 speeds. It also got a new chain (two actually, I managed to booger up the first one when I used it to grenade the rear derailleur). I've decided I'm keeping the narrow flat bars, they are a good fit after all, I just needed to get more familiar with them. Out of curiosity I measured them today and they're 20" end to end. The bars on my Kona Mahuna are 30", which explains why this thing feels like steering a sheet of plywood in comparison.

The only thing I want to change in the immediate future is the shifters. I hate having to reach down to the downtube to shift, it's awkward and needlessly wobbly. The rest of the drivetrain has me dead set on keeping a friction shift set up, so I've set my sights on a cheap set of bar-mounted friction thumb shifters. Future plans may include a new seat and post, and I'd like to see what I can do about trimming some weight, likely from the crank. Those OG crank arms are solid steel and thus quite heavy. I'm considering adding a rack, or at least a frame bag if I can find one that fits nicely.

Drivetrain.jpg


Cockpit.jpg


Side.jpg


Front.jpg


Rear.jpg


I've also been struggling to come up with a suitable name and am open to suggestions.
 
A few more pics to share.

What's your clearance, Clarence? The rear tire is close enough to the front derailleur that in order to mount/dismount the wheel, I need to completely air down and squeeze as hard as possible on the tire and kind of roll it out of the frame. Sure, I could take it all apart and machine some of the bulk away from the backside of the body, but...nah.

NewDerailleurDetail(3).jpg


Sunnier days:

Sunshine.jpg
 
Wow, making your own derailleur body. Lots of skills there.

Campagnolo had an earlier push rod derailleur that worked just as poorly.

I worked in a Raleigh Pro Shop dealer in the 1970s when these were sold. Lowest priced Raleigh 10 speed during the bike boom. Yet the next model up, the Gran(d) Prix outsold it by far. The Record was the basic Raleigh Nottingham made frame with bolt on steel parts. Same basic frame construction as the Sports and Sprites. Those plastic Simplex derailleurs were dismal. OEM on countless brand of bikes for just a few years, after Huret all steel derailleurs and before Suntour took over. We installed many Suntour after market derailleurs to replace them. A modern clamp on 1 1/8" derailleur will work fine if you route the shift cable under the bottom bracket. There are many of those plastic cable guides that can be applied with double stick tape instead of drilling a hole for the mounting screw on the underside. Aside from the plastic breaking, that loopy cable housing will collect water and rust the cable solid. A good upgrade is a stainless steel shift cable and teflon lined housing. Raleigh did sell the Record in the racing team colors. I always wanted a Team Racing Raleigh but they only sold those colors in the bottom end Record and the top end Team Pro with the new Reynolds 753 tubing which had a bad habit of breaking. I was disappointed in Raleigh for not selling the Team colors in a mid range model like the Super Course. Ditto for Schwinn and their Bi-Centennial colors that were only sold on the very heavy Varsity and Sting Ray. A very popular upgrade on many Raleighs was the Suntour bar con shifters that plug in to the ends of the handlebars. By 1976 or so the Super Record was added to the line up. Same frame but mostly aluminum parts from Japan. The Team Record was also sold in a sky blue color, I guess to appeal to women.

My local coop has a couple of Records in stock. One is a rather rare 26x1 3/8" version. One of my sisters raced on a 24" Record when she was racing "midget and intermediate classes". Okay, USCF got pc and changed the class to "Juniors" and changed "Veterans" to "Masters" as those weren't ex-military races. My sister would get performance anxiety and barf all over the start line which really psyched out the other racers. There just weren't any decent 24" wheeled race bikes in the 1970s.
 
Wow, making your own derailleur body. Lots of skills there.

Campagnolo had an earlier push rod derailleur that worked just as poorly.

I worked in a Raleigh Pro Shop dealer in the 1970s when these were sold. Lowest priced Raleigh 10 speed during the bike boom. Yet the next model up, the Gran(d) Prix outsold it by far. The Record was the basic Raleigh Nottingham made frame with bolt on steel parts. Same basic frame construction as the Sports and Sprites. Those plastic Simplex derailleurs were dismal. OEM on countless brand of bikes for just a few years, after Huret all steel derailleurs and before Suntour took over. We installed many Suntour after market derailleurs to replace them. A modern clamp on 1 1/8" derailleur will work fine if you route the shift cable under the bottom bracket. There are many of those plastic cable guides that can be applied with double stick tape instead of drilling a hole for the mounting screw on the underside. Aside from the plastic breaking, that loopy cable housing will collect water and rust the cable solid. A good upgrade is a stainless steel shift cable and teflon lined housing. Raleigh did sell the Record in the racing team colors. I always wanted a Team Racing Raleigh but they only sold those colors in the bottom end Record and the top end Team Pro with the new Reynolds 753 tubing which had a bad habit of breaking. I was disappointed in Raleigh for not selling the Team colors in a mid range model like the Super Course. Ditto for Schwinn and their Bi-Centennial colors that were only sold on the very heavy Varsity and Sting Ray. A very popular upgrade on many Raleighs was the Suntour bar con shifters that plug in to the ends of the handlebars. By 1976 or so the Super Record was added to the line up. Same frame but mostly aluminum parts from Japan. The Team Record was also sold in a sky blue color, I guess to appeal to women.

My local coop has a couple of Records in stock. One is a rather rare 26x1 3/8" version. One of my sisters raced on a 24" Record when she was racing "midget and intermediate classes". Okay, USCF got pc and changed the class to "Juniors" and changed "Veterans" to "Masters" as those weren't ex-military races. My sister would get performance anxiety and barf all over the start line which really psyched out the other racers. There just weren't any decent 24" wheeled race bikes in the 1970s.
Loads of info there - thank you!

My dad had a Raleigh in the 70's, he thinks it was a Gran Prix but may have also been a Record. Fun fact, he would use it to impress my mom while they were dating. He'd drop a dime on the pavement in front of her, race down the street, then race back and lay the bike down sideways to collect the dime. He'd also use it to tick off city cops running radar...they'd think they had a speeder coming at them, instead it was just a punk kid on a bike. Showing him this bike immediately brought him back in time, haha.
 
My son on law gave me a Record Ace from 1978 that he picked up for 5 bucks. All stock. I used it in an MS150 in 2001. Later I was given some alloy rims and stripped it down to 27 lbs with upright bars and a black paint job. I wanted to give it a Pashley Guvnor look. It was the fastest bike I've owned. My tall daughter got it as nothing else would fit her. The alloy wheels made the biggest difference.

242076-1978-Raleigh-Record-Ace.jpg
 
Too cold and windy to ride today IMO, so I figured I'd wrench instead.

Currently playing around with different bar/stem set ups on the Raleigh, which has in turn got me machining more custom parts.

Stay tuned...
Well, that didn't work 😆

I swore I had a piece of 1 3/8" aluminum round bar, but after digging through my materials bin I came up empty handed. I was going to machine a stem, which I would have clamped to this stubby adapter I made from an old Kalin quill.

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Instead, I shortened the end of the OG quill so I could slam the bars a bit lower. Then I adjusted the seat a bit and took it on a quick test ride. I noticed my hands kept drifting further inbound on the bars, so I shortened them either further? Currently at 17" wide. Another quick test ride and I find it pretty comfortable. Feels faster, too, which is pretty much all that matters.

Slamming the bars this low also caused some clearance issues with the front brake cable routing, so I drilled a hole through the stem and looped the front cable upwards from the lever, through the hole, and into the steerer bracket. Tough to get a clear pic of, what with the phone mount and headlight mount...

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Oh, and upon further inspection, it's a '74/'75!

Serial RN427287, which decodes to Canadian-made, in October of 1974. Late-year production means it might have been a '75 model.

PXL_20240224_205758079.jpg


I didn't wind up trying anything different with the shifters, but this new riding position does shorten the reach from the grip to the shifter, which in turn also keeps my shoulders more parallel with the ground. I think the long reach and subsequent off camber shoulder position is part of what was making me so wobbly and uncomfortable before, and this is definitely an improvement. I'm going to keep it like this for a bit...put some more miles on this set up and reevaluate things after that.
 
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