Aluminati (feels like an abandoned amusement park in here!))

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Re: Aluminati*SilVeR KinG*(((disc brake crank)))update

Fireproof said:
imagearchy said:
does anyone else have any ideas on how to keep the cog from unwinding?
Click to expand...


Instead of drilling the set-screw holes into the cog to bear down on the threads of the hub, maybe you could drill into the threads of the sprocket AND the hub, parallel to the axle, and tap the holes for small set screws . . . so the set screws are going in from the side of the hub. You would have almost the same effect as keyways.
If you go with a mechanical attachment (your set-screw idea), use plenty of RED Locktite on everything! :wink:

Keep up the good work . . it's lookin' good! 8)
Click to expand...

I was thinking going in at an angle through the treads about 2-3mm with 3-4 set screws to lock it in place but i am going to think about your set screw/key idea for a while.....
 
Re: Aluminati*SilVeR KinG*(((disc brake crank)))update

i took a break today from my build.
But i found two new frames today. this is my next rat rod build frame.
IMG_0373.jpg


and the next i will keep Secret!

Till build of #7

Hint-hint?
It's ((not)) made of metal!
 
Re: Aluminati*SilVeR KinG* (((early start tonight!)))

filing the strait bar
IMG_0374.jpg

IMG_0375.jpg

IMG_0376.jpg

IMG_0377.jpg

now back to polishing and crank mockup..
 
Re: Aluminati*SilVeR KinG* (((early start tonight!)))

deorman said:
I think Fireproof's suggestion is the way to go, although instead of screws I would have suggested press-fit pins as "keys". :|
Click to expand...
thats a good idea too...hmmm?????

the problem with drilling half and half is the hub is aluminum and the cog is steel.
the bit will want to lean towards the aluminum. I do not have a mill to get that kind of precision.
i think my drill press might hold but a bit that small will bend.
 
Re: Aluminati*SilVeR KinG* (((early start tonight!)))

Oh, man! Who threw THAT wrench into the works! The cog looked like aluminum in the pic.
I guess you would need to work on the ID of the cog in a few places with a rattail file before installing it to the hub and drilling the holes.
Plan "B" would include a custom ring to fit between the hub flange and the cog . . . some holes drilled and tapped, a few from each side, to match the holes in the cog on one side and some to match the holes in the hub flange from the other side. Bolt through the hub flange into the adapter ring from the inboard side and bolt into the ring through the cog from the outboard side.
 
Re: Aluminati*SilVeR KinG* (((early start tonight!)))

I definately want that seat for my build!!!! Looks awesome! Have fun with it!
 
Re: Aluminati*SilVeR KinG*(((disc brake crank)))update

imagearchy said:
i also picked up an 18 tooth surly rear cog today. i have a problem that i have to solve! when i apply the brakes on my crank it will unthread the cog. i think i will drill 4 set screws in to lock the cog in place. i was thinking about wiring it locked like wiring lug nuts locked on a track car. the only problem with wiring is that lug nuts don't wave pressure against them. the wire is just to keep them from unthreading. and i will have all of the braking pressure against it.
IMG_0372.jpg

does anyone else have any ideas on how to keep the cog from unwinding?
Click to expand...

How well do the holes in the hub match the holes in the sprocket? I'm seeing you tap the sprocket holes and run a bolt thru the inside of the hub with a spacer in between the hub and the sprocket. Clearance the spacers for the chain if necessary. 2 grade 8 bolts would be enough. Could we get a shot looking straight down the axle?
 
Re: Aluminati*SilVeR KinG* (((early start tonight!)))

is the mystery bike made of fiberglass?

RE: the hub-cog issue could you make a bushing that would replace the spacer on the axle that would press against the cog to keep it from unthreading? Seems like you could replace that shiny spacer between the adjuster cone and lock nut with something that might even streamline that area of the hub too.

Nice trick with the tape BTW

good luck!
 
Re: Aluminati*SilVeR KinG*(((disc brake crank)))update

JoKeR63 said:
imagearchy said:
i also picked up an 18 tooth surly rear cog today. i have a problem that i have to solve! when i apply the brakes on my crank it will unthread the cog. i think i will drill 4 set screws in to lock the cog in place. i was thinking about wiring it locked like wiring lug nuts locked on a track car. the only problem with wiring is that lug nuts don't wave pressure against them. the wire is just to keep them from unthreading. and i will have all of the braking pressure against it.
IMG_0372.jpg

does anyone else have any ideas on how to keep the cog from unwinding?
Click to expand...

How well do the holes in the hub match the holes in the sprocket? I'm seeing you tap the sprocket holes and run a bolt thru the inside of the hub with a spacer in between the hub and the sprocket. Clearance the spacers for the chain if necessary. 2 grade 8 bolts would be enough. Could we get a shot looking straight down the axle?
Click to expand...

that would be 8 holes in the hub N 12 in the cog. sorry bout the ((blur)) my camera likes to focus on the nearest object
IMG_0381.jpg

there are 4 holes i the cog that could be drilled into the hub. non of the holes line up. i think that would be a little hoky and obvious to put a bolt/spacer through them.

IMG_0385.jpg

I am now thinking of drilling 4 set screws through the hub from center to 4 holes drilled into the cog on the inside. that way i have the strength of the mass in the aluminum and the set points in the steel -or- drilling four 1/8th
"holes 2/3 onto the aluminum side of the thread and notching the cog with a file to match up with the holes.
Any off those ideas sound better or am i going about this the wrong way?
 
Re: Aluminati*SilVeR KinG*(((disc brake crank)))update

imagearchy said:
I am now thinking of drilling 4 set screws through the hub from center to 4 holes drilled into the cog on the inside. that way i have the strength of the mass in the aluminum and the set points in the steel . . .
Click to expand...
Soooooo . . . you would tighten the set-screws from the inboard side of the flange, correct? Are you able to drill the holes such that they would be towards the center where the cog and hub are in actual contact? That is, so you would not see the set screws exposed between the cog and flange . . .
 
Re: Aluminati*SilVeR KinG*(((disc brake crank)))update

Smoopy's said:
have you considered a BMX freewheel instead?
Click to expand...

A freewheel will kill his chainring disc braking system, need to be fixed.

I think there's enough Campy stuff out there that killing one hub won't knock the earth off it's axis. :mrgreen:
 

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