Two frame disassmbly questions

[Cliff]

I have two more items to remove before sanding and prep for new paint.

1) I want to salvage and reapply the head tube badge.

The top screw came out after a soaking with PB Blaster, but the lower screw won't budge despite spraying it numerous times with PBB and letting it sit for days. I suppose I will drill it out, but then what is the best way to reattach it later? Any other suggestions before I drill it?

2) The bottom bracket races are also not yielding to banging from the inside outward using a mallet and various other rams (screwdriver, pipe) against the inside lip. Suggestions for making this work?

Thanks,

Cliff

 

[mikesbikes36]

try shootin some blaster inside the headtube on the back of the screw if u havent already ....once u get ur blade in the screw slot tap on it with a small hammer and turn at the same time ...
on the bearing cups i stick a wrench or something inside the headtube and put it up against the inside and wack it with a hammer .. good luck !!!MIKE

 

[Wingman]

Try a little heat on the inside of the of the neck with a hand held propane torch .
Secondly , try putting your screw driver in the slot then Impact the end of the screwdriver with a SMALL hammer.
Stephen / Wingman

 

[Slick Rick]

Old school "Impact driver"might work on that headbadge scew. When I say old school, I'm talking about the one that you "impact" with a hammer. Not sure you have seen one of these, they are fairly inexpensive @ Harbor Freight tools. I would try all of the methods described above first though (good advice). Another method I have had pretty good luck with is using a utility knife blade clamped into a pair of Vice grips. The back side of the blade ( non sharpened side) fits perfectly in the slot. As far as the bottom braket cups, I have always used a scrap seatpost and a big balpein hammer with perfect results. You might want to try a slide hammer if you have one available to you. Good luck! Later & PEACE!!!!

 

[udallcustombikes]

Everyone else has covered the removal portion of your question I will help with the re-attachment portion. The original thread size is 4-40. If you manage to get the screw out it will more than likely have the head damaged. New screws can be found on ebay or some hardware stores might have them. Or if you want to do it on the cheap like me, some old cassette tapes had the two sides held together with screws that just happen to be 4-40 thread. If you do end up drilling it out fastenal.com has tap-in rivets (drive screws) that the other bike manufactures used to secure their headbadges.

http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/de ... 221&ucst=t

 

[Cliff]

Awesome! Thanks for these responses.

I went out and bought a pretty stout tie bolt and used it along with a hammer to pop out the BB races.

The head tube badge screw is still a problem. I had already thought to spray PBB onto the screw from inside the head tube, but they don't actually seem to penetrate through...there is no access to the screws from inside the tube. Odd, apparently. I'll keep working at it. And thanks for the info about the 4-40 thread screws!

Cliff

 

[kram]

I have taken a dremel tool and a cutting bit and carefully made the slot in the screw a bit larger so that a bigger screwdriver will fit. It ruins the screw but you can get a lot more torque with bigger screwdriver.

 

[Road Master]

If you have a torch - preferable a mini torch - heat just the head of the screw (use tip of flame) without hitting the headbadge till it gets red. With a perfectly fit (to the screw) screwdriver in the slot of the screw first tap sharply on the screwdriver a few times and then tap lightly on the end while applying counter-clockwise pressure on the screw driver and continue to tap until it's loose enough to finish removal with just the screwdriver. I've broken loose the rustiest bolts in the world using this method, it takes a lot of patience. If the screw doesn't start to move after the first heating apply heat a second time and repeat the process until it turns.

For the bearing cups I tap them out with a hammer and a short piece of rebar. Good luck!

 

[Cliff]

Winner!

Another method I have had pretty good luck with is using a utility knife blade clamped into a pair of Vice grips. The back side of the blade ( non sharpened side) fits perfectly in the slot.

This one worked .

Thanks everyone for all the advice.