Truvativ BB Adapter

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I didn't find much on the subject and the one post with a write up was a dead link. So if you have put one of these on please help. I was about to press them in but they don't have the same feel the old bb's have. The ends aren't rounded at all and I don't want to damage the shell or bb adapter.
ugyravys.jpg



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Press'r in there.... you're good. Pro tip--- do one "cup" at a time if you're using a press; easier to keep it straight.
 
I press in one, then use the bolts, turning them a little working my way around them.
Post what b.b. you use if it works!
Currently, I am running one backwards, to achieve something like a chain line!
 
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You'll want a BSC-threaded BB, most likely 68mm wide, but measure... if your BB shell is weird, you may be better with a 73mm. (highly unlikely, though.) As for the spindle, that has more to with what crank you're running and what kinda chainline you're going for with your rear hub/sprocket. Very little of that is standardized, hence the wide variety of spindles available among contemporary square taper BBs....
 
I'm sure I've gotten lucky but this bb has been in 3 mountain bikes and now this adapter. I knew it was good to use because the bikes have all been built from 2000's. I use spacers on the rear wheel to align the chain. I did measure the shell so depending on your bike and how old it is then make your purchase.


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Yeah, 70s Schwinn with an adaptor will take a 68mm BSC-threaded BB,. which basically means any BB marked 68x___mm. The question will be with filling in those blanks; chainline is pretty important, especially on a singlespeed or internally-geared hub, but also important on derailer set-ups. A lot of older 3piece cranks and square-taper BMX cranks need a really long spindle, often about 127mm. Newer stuff and you might want to be in the neighborhood of 110 to 118mm, but you don't wanna guess. You'll want to decide on what hub and crank you're using, figure out the rear chainline, and then do some measuring/thinking/research on how much spindle you'll need to keep that chain straight and parallel between the front and rear sprockets.

Some of these BBs are cheap, but the price adds up if you keep getting the wrong size and buying another to replace it. Also, running one that ain't right but "seems" to work fine is false economy; skewed chainline will wear chains and sprockets faster, and lead to the chain derailing. There's a zillion tricks to fine-tuning chainline once you get within a few mm of perfect, but if you're too far off, you're gonna need to buy new parts...
 

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