only if you use modern ones , old ones are not grinded flat i think they are forged to final specs cause their edges are smooth
Trauma-Free Tire Changing
- Thread starter Wade
- Start date
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if the tip are grounded square, corners can snag the tube..only if you use modern ones , old ones are not grinded flat i think they are forged to final specs cause their edges are smooth
Sure, rounding all corners and edges, and grind the tip to round shape.. but finish on some rims would mar too easy..
Ya, you never know what you will find inside a tire. My Schwinn Cruiser Four had a 26x1 3/8 tube inside the 26 x 2.125 rear tire. My SIL bought a like new english 3 speed bike, went to change the tire cause it rolled "funny" and found a 27" tube pushed into the 26" wheel and FOLDED on top of itself inside!
ya crack me up... I had done it before.. because I was young, didn't have a way or money to get a new tube.. so I pulled a tube out of 26" bike and slap it in my 20" bike, and yup it was folded and taped with lotsa black electrician tape.. worked good in my 20" cheater slick.. no lumpy or dumpy feelings, due to bent rim, I couldn't tell anyway.. what a memories
thats what i said , old flathead srewdrivers are already rounded (no sharp corners) using that with a piece of a old inner tube and it wont scratch or even damage cheap paint jobs
The worst tires I ever put on a rim were Linus tires on the wood 700c CB Italia rims for my Iver Johnson racer. The ash ended up with some small dents (hey, patina!) around the edge from the levers and I even broke a couple of levers getting them on. If I stand on my toes, I can still hear the echoes of the swears still floating around the ceiling from when I put those on about two years ago. If those tires ever get a flat, the bike will no longer be ridden.
or even a piece of nylon tubing..
Composite levers are great. I got some really nice steel reinforced ones at my local bike shop for cheap.
One thing I've noticed that makes tire changing a lot easier is to first get the bead loose all the way around, then I pry the tire with a lever in one spot, then I work the beads on the opposite side towards the center of the rim while holding the lever. You can kind of feel the tire get looser where the lever is as you get the beads pinched towards the center of the rim. Then I just slide the lever around to get the rest of the bead loose.
I usually never use a lever when reinstalling. I just tuck the bead into the part of the rim where it will give the most clearance.
One thing I've noticed that makes tire changing a lot easier is to first get the bead loose all the way around, then I pry the tire with a lever in one spot, then I work the beads on the opposite side towards the center of the rim while holding the lever. You can kind of feel the tire get looser where the lever is as you get the beads pinched towards the center of the rim. Then I just slide the lever around to get the rest of the bead loose.
I usually never use a lever when reinstalling. I just tuck the bead into the part of the rim where it will give the most clearance.
Also at amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Tire-Bead-Jack/dp/B001AYML7K
Thanks for the tip, macncheese - never heard of it before.
http://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Tire-Bead-Jack/dp/B001AYML7K
Thanks for the tip, macncheese - never heard of it before.
what bother me is those tires that are folded or rolled up in a small box.. which are seen in large department store like Wally World... never have used or mounted any of them.. all I heard is that they're a pain to get it to stay on the rim..
I find with them, you need to pull them out and lay them out round for a few days before fitting, or fit them up with 20 psi for a day or two and then let them down and reposition on the wheel.
Sometimes they work fine first time though, depends on the tire...
Luke.
