Considering painting my off road Caloi beach cruiser conversionfixed gear...I can get it bead blasted and powder coated 30 for the blast and 70 for the paint.......I figure the cost to spray can would be around 20-30 after preparing the surface plus time spent...am I about right on the cost....How well does a spray can job hold up?
Spray can vs Powder coating
- Thread starter dsitterson
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I have yet to see a rattle can job hold up with off the shelf paint. I have seen one paint job where the guy got automotive paint with the hardeners and such put in a rattle can. The paint job looked great and held up, but the cost ($60-75 for two cans) and the one hour time limit from the time the paint is mixed until it is hardened have kept me from trying it.
I have had several bikes powder coated and have been quite pleased with the durability and finish.
If you want a show quality finish then have it shot with automotive paint. I inquired at a body shop as to the cost one time and they quoted me $150 for the prep and paint work.
You can get a fantastic paint job out of an off-the-shelf rattle can if you take your time- prep the bike to get a clean start,prime then wet sand (400 grit- 800 grit) 3-4 coats, paint your color in 2-3 coats and then wet sand (800-1000 grit) and repeat several times to get the depth in the paint, 3-4 coats of clear wet sanding (1000-2000 grit) between coats and don't sand the last coat. Be sure to follow the directions on the can in regards to the cure time. This process typically takes me two to three weeks and can come out looking great, but the first time another bike gets knocked over into it you will have a scratch.
I have had several bikes powder coated and have been quite pleased with the durability and finish.
If you want a show quality finish then have it shot with automotive paint. I inquired at a body shop as to the cost one time and they quoted me $150 for the prep and paint work.
You can get a fantastic paint job out of an off-the-shelf rattle can if you take your time- prep the bike to get a clean start,prime then wet sand (400 grit- 800 grit) 3-4 coats, paint your color in 2-3 coats and then wet sand (800-1000 grit) and repeat several times to get the depth in the paint, 3-4 coats of clear wet sanding (1000-2000 grit) between coats and don't sand the last coat. Be sure to follow the directions on the can in regards to the cure time. This process typically takes me two to three weeks and can come out looking great, but the first time another bike gets knocked over into it you will have a scratch.
Powder coating is going to be way way waaaay more durable then really any spray can paint job. It may cost alittle more but in reality its a lot less work for you and it can be done very quickly. Also, to get the slick finish powder coating will give you, you will have to clear, wet sand, and buff spray paint which on a bike that is basically all round objects is a pain and really easy to sand through the color.
Like what's been said. For a show finish have it automotive painted or whatever. For durability powdercoat is great. The price you were quoted seems a little high though. I rattle can a lot of mine and don't put in near the prep work others suggest. I think all the prep work makes for a better looking paint job but I don't know that it contributes to durability. Keep extra paint around for touch ups. I'm pretty sure my rattle can paint jobs look good from where you're sitting 
The paint and auto body supply shop near me fills ppg into 17oz aerosol cans. They will match any color and the cost is $17 per can. The only reason I haven't tried it is because I would need to invest ppg primer and clear. Another option which I use is hardener for laquer-based paints. I spray my bike with auto laquer from the cans. Then I use duplicolor clear from a quart can sold at advance or autozone. I add laquer hardener to that in a wagner power-sprayer, 1 part hardener to 8 parts clear, but I add a little extra hardener. It is UV cured, so I have to get it in the sun and it takes a while to cure. But it is definitely more durable.
are you sure about lacquer hardener? Lacquer is a solvent based,air dry paint. No hardeners have ever been made for them. Maybe you mean urethane?
Thanks for the info I have replaced just about everything on this bike with exception to the chain ring, goose neck and frame....I am going to powder coat ...I will post some before and after pics....thanks for all you help....
I have learned that the "purists" in this hobby frown on Powder Coating on vintage bikes, but I have a different philosophy on the subject. I'll bet that if we could bring back Arnold Schwinn, Albert Pope, or Orville & Wilbur they would love powder coating. I can't help but think that these same pioneers would be happy with their products powder coated...like I have done. I think that if you do your best to "Do Your Best", you have done nothing but The Right Thing for your bike. Just wait 'til you see my TruSport. My powder coater has it right now, and I'll be posting pics in a few short weeks...stay tuned!!
I'm sure. I use this with duplicolor clear. A guy who used it to get a good spray can job on his car told me to try it and to get it from Ferrystones paint and body, Mount Airy, NC. So I went there and they knew exactly what I was looking for. It works great. Definitely more durable than regular clear.Voyager Al said:
powder is the best! i've done 3 in it and i love it. sadly i havent kept any of 'em 
it is pricey! i probably wouldnt do it again unless it was something i really wanted to keep or was just right for the build.
that bein' said. any old bike can be painted w/ primer/base/clear out of a rattle can and look great if the prep/conditions are right, and you dont mix brands.
yeah, there are restorers and purists, but were lucky to be here on RRB! we dont care! customize!
it is pricey! i probably wouldnt do it again unless it was something i really wanted to keep or was just right for the build.
that bein' said. any old bike can be painted w/ primer/base/clear out of a rattle can and look great if the prep/conditions are right, and you dont mix brands.
yeah, there are restorers and purists, but were lucky to be here on RRB! we dont care! customize!
That's the main reason I don't mess with powdercoat. For a couple of bucks I can do a nice two-tone job and have paint left over to touch up any scratches that might occur. Also if I decide I want to change the bike up and repaint, I can change my mind on color without going broke. This one was blue and silver but I changed my mind and went with two-tone blue.
My one bike I am going to powder coat just cause I want to try it and I plan on keeping the bike and ride it in the woods alot....For the spray can jobs I should do the folowing.
1. Prep
2. Prime
3. Paint
4. Clear Coat
Is that right so far? Stick with same brand all the way through the process..Krylon is one that was recommended.... When you wet sand between coats .....can some one explain that....
Thanks
1. Prep
2. Prime
3. Paint
4. Clear Coat
Is that right so far? Stick with same brand all the way through the process..Krylon is one that was recommended.... When you wet sand between coats .....can some one explain that....
Thanks
You sand between coats to give the next coat a good surface to bite to. Paint won't stick well to a smooth surface, that's why painting chrome plating seldom last long. If you are spraying coats back to back, with just a tack-time in between, then the previous coat is still sticky enough for the next coat to stick to. But it you let it dry in between coats, you'll have to do something to promote adhesion. Wet sanding does that. Same goes with preparing to spray a clear coat over a base coat.
Anyway, your steps are more like:
1. Prep/sand
2. Prime
3. prep/sand
4. Paint
5. prep/sand
6. possibly repeat
7. Clear Coat
8. final sand
9. polish out
There really is a lot that goes into doing a nice paint job; a lot of people don't give it much thought. You can, of course, just simply prime & spray, or prime, spray, and clear. But it won't look as good. This is one of those areas where the final product really reflects what went into it.
Anyway, your steps are more like:
1. Prep/sand
2. Prime
3. prep/sand
4. Paint
5. prep/sand
6. possibly repeat
7. Clear Coat
8. final sand
9. polish out
There really is a lot that goes into doing a nice paint job; a lot of people don't give it much thought. You can, of course, just simply prime & spray, or prime, spray, and clear. But it won't look as good. This is one of those areas where the final product really reflects what went into it.
B607 said:
There's a shop here in Portland that does multiple color powder coating, mostly road bike frames with different color lugs than the tubing. I've seen a few frames that they've done and it's pretty cool!
Ozz, its not lacquer!! Thats a urethane additive! SEM states it is for their Rust-Shield paints, ENAMEL based paint.
Rust shield also produced a laquer paint which has been discontinued and it is compatible with that as well. I have used it with several bikes so far. Trust me, it works. My dad's bike fell over onto a large cast iron fireplace mantle and didn't suffer more than a scuff. I tried it on my two-tone 49 Schwinn first. After a few weeks of curing, I smacked the bike with a screw-driver and it was fine. The shop I got it from still carried rust-shield laquer at the time, so I took a chance. It works! The finish will stay tacky for awhile unless you get it in the sun. Had it been a failure I wouldn't post it. Maybe it's not designed for duplicolor laquers, but so far I have used it with duplicolor clear several times, and have been happy with the results. The main thing is that it is UV cured. The guy who told me about it used it with laquer clear about a year and a half ago, and his car is still holding up fine. I don't know, I don't always do things the way I'm told or follow instructions 100%, but sometimes things work out just right. I guess this is one of those "happy accidents". Take it for what it's worth. I do the proper prep work, use it the way I stated, and as a result, my bicycle finishes (so far) have done great and it has saved me from a bunch of touch ups due to falls and possible knicks and scrapes. I guess I should say at this point "Try at your own risk" . LOL People also say not to spray laquer over an enamel primer, but I have an entire photobucket account to the contrary if anyone wants to look. Go to PB username ozzmonaut , album name bike stuff. I'll try to put a few pics in of my 52 and 55 as well since they are flashy show quality paint jobs.
Also, I let the laquer base coat cure for a full 3 or 4 days before I apply the clear w/hardener added. I haven't tried applying it any earlier, but just in case... and don't apply anything over top of the clear w/hardener until it has cured. I realized a little mistake and sprayed over top of the clear before it had cured, a small amount of wrinkling occured. I sanded it down and waited a few days, worked fine.
Good for you. Me, on the other hand,who has painted cars for 30 some years, doesnt add hardners to his lacquers. He DOES urethane clear over lacquers. Good luck to ya. I remember mixing lacquer thinner in acrylic enamels, back in the early 70's. Dried quick,wetsanded well, buffed great. Didnt hold up worth a .... in the sun more than 3 years. Ate alotta repaints. Good luck to ya. As an old goat, I HAVE learned that paint chemists ARE smarter than me, and I NOW follow their recommendations and read the MSDS sheets.Urethane hardeners are for enamel and urethane based paints. Period.
Good luck to ya. And wear a respirator......
Good luck to ya. And wear a respirator......
So if I use urethane will it work better with that hardener? I don't use arylic enamels though. I just mix the thinner in with the laquer and the hardener. It states that it is compatible with all rust shield products though, which I guess includes their laquer product. The only reason I didn't use rust shield laquer was the cost and fact that it was being discontinued so I might not have always had access to it. Good luck to both of us. We can all use a little luck.
