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Yeah I've seen that one guys site. Its kind of what helped me with the crank so far. But on the inside of my chainring whatever is holding it on to the crank has no edges for me to grip with a wrench like the one in his illustration does its just rounded. And I haven't tried to monkey with it yet. ??

What I'd really like is a freewheel hub/rim. But I can't put caliper brakes on my bike as ccr pointed out, so it seems I'm s.o.l. I always liked the ticking sound when just coasting along on my other random bikes as a kid. Too bad I don't have the typhoon frame. Oh well.
 
hey, i hate being a pain in the you know what, but we need pics of what you are doing. we like pics. so please can ya get us some pic's? thanks

Outlaw :D
 
i don't have a digital cam outlaw. working on getting pics, but my phone cam quality is only so good. so for now all i can do is explian the best i can. sorry man.
 
Congrats on the Schwinn Tiger. Nice smooth rides and perfect frame for a RatRod build.

I am sure it has been posted here before but one of the best rust removal methods regardless if repainting is "Wood Bleech". Also known as Oxalic Acid. Can be found at places sucsh Ace Hardware, Home Depot. Menards, etc. If no info here on this site for the product then let me know, or one of my fellow forum friends from Schwiin or VintageBMX can point you to the info. Ted Karl first brought this method to our attention a few years back.

Ric
 
so i def need 28 tpi then? i think i'm going to buy a bracket set, as well as some other 'guts' to things if for no other reason as to have backup(s). not that i'm going to ride hard, just that you never know.

think i'm going to need a new neck stem bolt, as the one in mine is pretty corroded at the end and the wedge shaped piece broken away a good section at the tip (looking like a broken ladies fingernail). what size am i looking for? don't need a new neck. just the stem bolt and wedge.

still haven't been able to find if i clean and sand the frame of dirt and rust (mainly rust) before i strip the paint or after? most demos i see are for those just sanding and painting over the old piant. is there a benefit to this instead? i thought maybe it'd be best to get the bike down to it's bare naked metal and start the new color off fresh? should i not?
 
The stem is 21.1mm which is unlike most modern 1"stems that measure 22.2mm. Even if the wedge looks bad it will probably work. Otherwise you will need to find the right size. Stem bolts are probably interchangeable.
 
I have no steal wool or brushes, so ill have to buy this stuff, what kind do I get? Those brushes can really fo some damage can't they? And you guys said to use wd40 while brushing?
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Can't tell you about steel wool, but the brass wool is softer than the chrome plating so it will remove the rust and not scratch the metal. The pads can be found in the kitchen cleaner section and the brushes in the hardware section of most "super" sized department/grocery stores.

WD40 would not only act as a lubricant for the physical scraping and cleaning process, but would help protect from rust re-forming in the future. It was originally designed as a rust inhibitor. Some people spray it on the inside of their frames before tightening everything up.

How do I get the chain off? Isn't there a master link?
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There's almost always a master link. Sometimes the chain is too dirty or greasy to see it, try wiping it down with a rag or paper towel. A chain tool makes chain work easier.

see are for those just sanding and painting over the old piant. is there a benefit to this instead?
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The original paint is usually harder than most over-the-counter paints we use, and works as an added level of protection. The advantage of going down to the metal is that you are sure all the rust is gone and you generally have a smoother coat when it's finished. Some guys like the patina that rust gives. Just depends on what you want.
 
Is there a radiator shop near you? If so, you might be able to talk them into soaking your frame in the radiator cleaning tank. Put it in the tank overnight and it will be down to bare metal the next day. Saves a ton of nasty, dirty work. My local shop does mine for free. I took in a restored bike the first time I went there and the owner really liked it. He would never take any money. 8) B607
 
man that sounds like a dream come true. i'm pretty ready to start scrubbing and stripping now. i hit up the walmart for some scraper and scrub brushes, pb blaster, a spray on paint stripper that seems like it might be ok and some other incidentals. used the brushes and pb to clean the crank already. would love it if some shop would let me just dip the frame. but i don't quite know of any shope, and doubt they would let me do so without having some kind of connections. but i'll look into it. it just strips it all right off huh? any other equally as speedy suggestions? lol.

still no answer on if i clean off the grease and rust before i go to bladt or strip the paint or during or after? if i could find some way to do it all in one shot that'd be great. if i missed the answer in a previous reply i apologize.

what are the best kind of brass brushes to use for rust and cleaning? the ones i've used one of the pack i got from wally world on my crank arm and chainring and before i was even done it was down to a nub of nothing. and i did't even get so sever with it as the chrome wasn't all that bad. would like to find some that i can use on more than just once and toss.

dreading cleaning the rims. any suggestions? all those spokes and rusting around their holes. ugh. not trying to take them all off.

thanks
 
The only really quick way to strip paint and rust in one shot other than a chemical bath is pretty much media blasting. Again, if you don't have a connection or a home set up, you're pretty much stuck. I've been looking into a media blaster kit for my work shop (or my 6 x 10 shed, if you wanna get technical) They're not too pricey, but I just can't justify spending the money these days... As to the rust & grease removal, you're going to want to get the grease off before you start sanding. You'll probably see that there's rust left on the frame long after the paint is gone. Nature of the beast, the rust comes from the metal, not from the paint. Don't even bother with a paint scraper on a bike frame, you'll drive yourself crazy. Get some 80 grit sanding discs for your drill and go that route. You'll save yourself a lot of time and cussing.
Brass brushes are great for cleaning chrome, but don't use them on the steel frame. As you found out, they're not hard enough to be effective on steel.
Since you're stripping the frame to bare metal, try removing everything that you can (bars, stem, seat post, cranks etc.) And then using a mineral spirits to get rid of the dirt and grease. Then, clean the bike with water, and if the paint still looks bad, use the paint stripper (I'm not a big fan of this stuff. Too much clean up and too toxic for my taste.) or an 80 grit sanding disc to take the frame down to bare metal. The sanding disc will have the added benefit of removing rust and paint at the same time. Then wipe down the frame with mineral spirits again, and you're ready to start painting.
 
what are the best kind of brass brushes to use for rust and cleaning? the ones i've used one of the pack i got from wally world on my crank arm and chainring and before i was even done it was down to a nub of nothing. and i did't even get so sever with it as the chrome wasn't all that bad. would like to find some that i can use on more than just once and toss.

dreading cleaning the rims. any suggestions? all those spokes and rusting around their holes. ugh. not trying to take them all off.
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I get brass brushes from Northern tool, they're with the welding stuff. You can get them at Home Depot & Lowe's also. I use a brass wire wheel in a drill to clean rims, get all I can with it, then get the rest with the brushes. There's no easy way to do it really! ~Adam
 

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