Repairing dings in a frame

[udallcustombikes]

My current project had a few small dings in the top tube and the down tube I need to fix before going much further in the build. If I was just going to paint the bike I would use JB Weld and call it good, but I am getting the frame powder coated so my repair needs to be metallic in nature. My powder coater suggested using the old hot rod technique of lead filling. I have never tried it so I need a walk through on it. I wouldn't be opposed to other methods that would work either.

I am going to get the frame media blasted before I begin repairs so I will be at his shop and have access to his torches and other tools to help get the job done.

 

[Uncle Stretch]

That using lead is a kind of an art. I'm not sure how big of dents/dings that your dealing with, but my choice would be to fill them with brass. Brazing is alot easier to mess with.

 

[c.p.odom]

I too use brass. Leading a frame is no big deal but it is falling out of favor due to the toxic nature of the fumes. If you ever stripped a pre-war Schwinn you will see that they leaded in the joints to smooth them.

 

[ratcycle]

I would look into a filler called I think Lab metal. It is just like bondo but has the characteristics of lead. It is available from eastwood. But the brass would work too.

 

[Ratfink1962]

Ive used my Mig to fill dings, then file them off.

seems to work ok, but I havent had any really deep ones to work on.

 

[ratcycle]

I have done the mig thing too that works too.

 

[gcrank1]

As long as the torch heat for brazing can be kept away from brazed together lugs, and maybe butt joints too?, I would go with brazing, though I admit to never being around the old lead-fill process. If you have an old time plumber around with his lead plumber's pot he probably could do it (short an old time body or hot-rod man).

 

[KJV]

use a stud gun;pull out :ding/dent,grind off stud;ez. :mrgreen:

 

[c.p.odom]

Possible but most bike tubing is a little thick for that and there is little to be gained. That is usually done to eliminate the stretch and work hardening from hammering out sheet metal and the follow up damage from using the shrinking hammer.

 

[oddified]

I would look into a filler called I think Lab metal. It is just like bondo but has the characteristics of lead. It is available from eastwood. But the brass would work too.

...there is another filler, if I remember right it's called E-Z Metal made by Evercoat, avail @ auto parts & body suppliers , it has a high aluminum content and applies like any body filler( bondos )...may be a possible fix? I know aluminum can be powdercoated with success...

 

[Ratfink1962]

sounds great but any filler will have to stand up to 350-400 degree heat. Since it works like bondo Im assuming it has a hardener? I would check the instructions but im thinking it wont hold up to the heat.

 

[pick]

I would look into a filler called I think Lab metal. It is just like bondo but has the characteristics of lead. It is available from eastwood. But the brass would work too.

I have never used it myself, but have heard of people using it with success, as long as it is not on something that gets REAL hot, like headers or jet afterburners or something like that. :lol: Even then, (on the headers) it just discolored the PC a little bit. This stuff is designed to handle PC heating temps, which are generally from 340 up to 450. You might check their website & in the meantime I will ck it too.

 

[oddified]

...I have used it to do panel to panel lap joint repairs where lead has been traditionally been used, it is catylized like most 2 part poly fillers. It IS a good point to bring up temperature though...being very similar to jb weld i think it should stand up to oven temps because it ISN'T poly filler like bondo...i have welded in near proximity to a repair using this but never tried to bake...hmmm

 

[pick]

Look on Eastwood's website & search Lab-Metal. It's kind of pricey though! 24 oz. about 30 bux + shipping!

 

[Harvie]

Look at Devcon Steel and Titanium you can PC over either one of them.

 

[linksandkinks]

you can powder coat over jb weld i have done it before, this summer i pc a motorcycle frame that was full of jb weld every seam a dent lol

 

[sensor]

uni-spotter will work(aka stud welder if you prefer a non brand name)wonders....you MAY even be able to heat them out with a torch as well(i have no idea how much youve used a torch to bring dings out....if youve never done it i wouldnt recommend you try this unless you want to create more damage)....its an old trade trick for repairing dings (on real steel cars.....dont try it on anything made after 1970 or so though :lol: )

 

[udallcustombikes]

I stopped by the powder coater to inspect the parts after he media blasted them. Everything looks good except the two dings in the frame and the bars are heavily pitted. While he was helping another customer I spent some time thumbing through his color books. I found an ad for Lab Metal that was mentioned earlier. I asked him about it and he hasn't used it but said he would order me a can to be his Guinea pig. After the holidays I will pick up my parts and the Lab Metal and see how it turns out. I will take lots of pics and document the repair for those who may need it in the future.

 

[bLANd]

i have been doing powdercoating here in southern idaho for the past 5 years and worked at a shop in socal for a few years. i have heard great things about lab metal but have had inconsistant experiences with it. tiger drylac makes a great filler just for powdercoaters! tigers filler requires a minimum filling layer but id does not matter how many layers is applied. the cons with using the tiger drylac stuff is that you have to bake each layer to cure it or wait 12 hours in between. all that being said.. theres one that i didnt mention till now and that is ALL-METAL and i trust it as much as i trust my ability to apply it. its a little harder to spread then one would think but it does an amazing job and dries very hard. i have filled some deep dings on some parts and the powder attracted to the 70* part better then a previously coated part that was 150*
let me know if you have anymore questions and even if i do not know i will help in anyway i can

merry christmas!

 

[Joe_Knesek]

JB Weld will work just fine. It contains metal & will attract powder. I find it easier to work with than All Metal & it withstands heat.

Another option is to apply a powder coat primer which can be sanded after a partial cure. I used this process on the cast iron part in the following photo prior to coating.