Rear hub help, too much play?

Rat Rod Bikes Bicycle Forum

Help Support Rat Rod Bikes Bicycle Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Joined
Mar 14, 2011
Messages
186
Reaction score
4
Location
Napa, CA
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
I've got a rear wheel with a coaster brake, it's a Perry i got for $20. The brake is a little on the scary side, just bad enough to be thrilling but it stops eventually which i think is exactly how rat rod brakes should be. The thing i'm not too sure about is that once you brake and start to crank again there is a least a quarter turn before you actually get tension. Maybe i'm just not used to a classic wheel or does something need to be adjusted?
 
A 1/4 turn at the cranks sounds about right, the clutch is moved from the brake position to the drive position on the drive gear (the rear sprocket) theres and in between point going back an forth where the clutch isnt fully engaging the brake and hasnt grabbed the hub shell yet to start spinning it. your just eating up the slack in that 1/4 turn.
 
The chain is nice and snug, i'm not sure all is right with the wheel though, the other day it took almost two full turns at the crank before it would turn the wheel. I've seen a rebuild on a Perry B100 like mine but i'm wondering how hard it is to find replacement parts if they are needed?
 
Brentley said:
...the other day it took almost two full turns at the crank before it would turn the wheel. I've seen a rebuild on a Perry B100 like mine but i'm wondering how hard it is to find replacement parts if they are needed?

"two full turns" is likely caused by the grease has turned to taffy or peanut butter and does not allow the driver to grab the hub as necessary. Most times no parts are needed. Then, next most likely, the adjusting cones or bearings might show wear. Parts are not easily available but might take a little sniffing around. I do have some extra parts, let me know what you need. 90% chance that a "clean & grease" fixes it. If all else fails you can buy another perry for parts, or replace it altogether.
 
dougfisk said:
Brentley said:
...the other day it took almost two full turns at the crank before it would turn the wheel. I've seen a rebuild on a Perry B100 like mine but i'm wondering how hard it is to find replacement parts if they are needed?

"two full turns" is likely caused by the grease has turned to taffy or peanut butter and does not allow the driver to grab the hub as necessary. Most times no parts are needed. Then, next most likely, the adjusting cones or bearings might show wear. Parts are not easily available but might take a little sniffing around. I do have some extra parts, let me know what you need. 90% chance that a "clean & grease" fixes it. If all else fails you can buy another perry for parts, or replace it altogether.

Thanks for the advice, i wouldn't have known about the old grease causing that problem. I've never taken apart a wheel but at $20 if i fail i haven't lost too much. If nothing else it will be a good learning experience. Hopefully a little grease will do the trick but i'll get back to you if i need some parts, thanks for the offer.
 
Brentley said:
Thanks for the advice, i wouldn't have known about the old grease causing that problem. I've never taken apart a wheel but at $20 if i fail i haven't lost too much. If nothing else it will be a good learning experience. Hopefully a little grease will do the trick but i'll get back to you if i need some parts, thanks for the offer.

Really, there is only a very small probability of failure. These things are almost idiot proof. If you have any mechanical aptitude at all you can do this. There are exploded schematics available on the web. Just pay attention to how things come apart and put them back in the same order/place. Consider this a rite-of-passage. Once you take apart, clean, lube and re-assemble a coaster hub, you are well on your way to bicycle zen.
 
Back
Top