Questions about forks

[Woodyrigged]

Im looking to use some aftermarket forks for the first time. I have been looking at the ChoppersUS triple tree style cruiser forks. My question is, what is the difference between the threaded and the threadless? And does my neck length on the frame matter or are these forks adjustable?

Here is the bike when it was stock... No idea what it was originally. I am assuming however that it is atleast a 1" fork neck.

Any detailed pictures would help greatly.

 

[Henry morgan]

look for forks ... under lovelylowriderbikes they have monarch springers.. and other types
I like fork talk ... :lol:

 

[expjawa]

A threaded fork is like what you have there - the top end of the steering tube is threaded, with a large nut and threaded-adjustable bearing cone to set the bearing preload. The typically have a quill-style stem that goeds down through the middle and clamps into the inside of the steer tube. The length of the steer tube is important because too long and the lock nut will bottom out, and too short and it won't reach far enough to thread both the cone and lock nut on. So, they vary in length depending on the length of the bike frame's head tube.

A so called "threadless" headset is what you see on a typical mountain bike and modern road bike. Here, there are no threads on the outside of the steer tube. Instead, these have a star nut down inside the steer tube, which a smaller bolt in the center of the cap threads into. The stem slides around the outside of the steer tube, and bearing preload is set with shims under it. It's all drawn together with the afore mentioned single bolt through the cap. Because the steer tube is unthreaded, it allows manufacturers to use aluminum for it, which wouldn't go over well with a threaded design (which is always steel).

Most bikes have either a 1" (older) or 1-1/8" diameter steer tube. That relates to the diameter of the frame head tube. The head tube itself doesn't really care which style of headset you put in it, as long as the headset is the right diameter and stack height for the length needed.

 

[Woodyrigged]

Ahhh this makes sense now. I personally only have experience with older "threaded" designs and haven't had the opportunity to disassemble a threadless style. So my next question is; if i go from a threaded style, to a newer threadless chopper style fork, what will I have to change or purchase to make that work?

 

[Laidback]

look for forks ... under lovelylowriderbikes they have monarch springers.. and other types
I like fork talk ... :lol:[/quote :mrgreen: N"
Hey Woody..from thread to threadless might wanna chk out some Stems and some kind of "bike tool" to pop that sealed bearing headset in...good luck
..."Peace Out" Br 8)

 

[udallcustombikes]

Ahhh this makes sense now. I personally only have experience with older "threaded" designs and haven't had the opportunity to disassemble a threadless style. So my next question is; if i go from a threaded style, to a newer threadless chopper style fork, what will I have to change or purchase to make that work?

The threadless fork should come with all the needed parts. I have mounted a 1 1/8" threadless triple tree fork from an OCC chopper on a vintage frame with a 1" head tube. I had to mix and match bearing cups, bearings and races to make it fit and function, but it can be done. I have had several OCC bikes pass through, both full size and the mini. Most I got for free and one I paid $20 for. The triple tree forks from the mini will fit a 26" balloon tire with little to no modification.

 

[mitchelangelo]

I used a set of chopper forks from a Jesse James 20" chopper bike. The triple trees actually clamp around the fork neck and clamp around the fork tubes with Allen type pinch bolts. The neck tube and fork tubes can be cut to length too. I cut 2" off the fork neck and 7" off the fork tubes. They look pretty sweet! Scope around for some used chopper bikes for cheap. Then you have bearings, races etc to play with for fit.

 

[Henry morgan]

always with the forks.. nobody ever talks about spoons..

 

[B607]

A threaded fork is like what you have there - the top end of the steering tube is threaded, with a large nut and threaded-adjustable bearing cone to set the bearing preload. The typically have a quill-style stem that goeds down through the middle and clamps into the inside of the steer tube. The length of the steer tube is important because too long and the lock nut will bottom out, and too short and it won't reach far enough to thread both the cone and lock nut on. So, they vary in length depending on the length of the bike frame's head tube.

A so called "threadless" headset is what you see on a typical mountain bike and modern road bike. Here, there are no threads on the outside of the steer tube. Instead, these have a star nut down inside the steer tube, which a smaller bolt in the center of the cap threads into. The stem slides around the outside of the steer tube, and bearing preload is set with shims under it. It's all drawn together with the afore mentioned single bolt through the cap. Because the steer tube is unthreaded, it allows manufacturers to use aluminum for it, which wouldn't go over well with a threaded design (which is always steel).

Most bikes have either a 1" (older) or 1-1/8" diameter steer tube. That relates to the diameter of the frame head tube. The head tube itself doesn't really care which style of headset you put in it, as long as the headset is the right diameter and stack height for the length needed.

I'm a 50's kind of bike guy and have never messed with a non threaded fork. :roll: This post is the best and clearest explanation I have seen concerning these forks. The moderators should make this post a sticky somewhere. Thanks jawa. Gary

 

[Woodyrigged]

Yea i have a pretty good understanding of these now. I just received a preordered drift trike that has the threadless style forks so i am going to mess with it today and try and figure it out.

Thanks for all the info guys!