Question about comparing old internal hubs

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Eliminator3speed

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I dropped the wheel set off of my 55 Columbia Speedliner at the bike shop to have the spokes tightened and the rear hub cleaned and greased. Well he said he couldn't tighten most of the spokes because they were seized and only charged me $35 for the work on the hubs.

Now I'm looking at re-spoking the wheels so I'm debating on changing out the rear hub while I'm at it. But I want to stay vintage. So the current hub is a Bendix cable operated 2 speed coaster. (Option 1 keep it original) Before dropping it off for cleaning and greasing, I took it for a ride and I thought the brakes were horrible and I could barely stop plus it felt like the bike ran put of steam at a low speed. (Option 2) Or should I go with a Shimano 333 I have one on my Murray eliminator but it always feels like you can't find the right gear. Like it's either too low of a gear or too high.... (Option 3) Maybe a Sturmey-Archer? I know nothing about them other than they're supposed to be good. What do you guys think. Stay stock or one of the other 2 hubs?
 
I always look for another gear on a three speed also. The chain wheel and cog can be changed to effect the ratios, but usually more gears are wanted by the rider.
The other brand of 3 speeds will have the nearly the same ratios. The original 2 speed is from 1955, so if you ride regularly, it might be best to go with a newer hub, and keep the 2 speed on your backup wheel. Then you have 2 good wheels, just would have to install the shifter when you made a change.


You would probably be happiest with a Shimano Nexus 7 with coaster brake. It's always good to have a front brake in case the chain breaks or comes off.

X-hub-shimanonexus7-2.jpg
 
The Nexus does look like a very nice hub, but I was hoping to keep everything looking old on the bike. Plus aren't they wider than the older hubs? I know on some of the old muscle bikes guys have to spread the rear of the bike to get them in.
 
The 55 Columbia is a steel frame, so it can be tweaked a little to fit a wider hub. If it's in good shape, the original 2 speed will give you a low and normal gear and be right for the 55 look. I'd still put a front brake on, maybe get an older one to make it look correct. The three speed will also give you low and normal gear, plus a high gear for downhill. The three speeds I've used have had good coaster brakes, Shimano, Sram were the best, and Sturmey Archer less stopping power.
 
I put the wheels back on today and i have to say the brakes are much better I can actually skid the rear wheel, but it's like a half a turn to lock it up. But when i was riding it the rear wheel was squeeking when I push the on the pedal to go faster but was silent when coasting. Also I was pedaling like crazy to keep it moving. So I'm definitely thinking it's time for a wheel set and a hub. I think I'm done with the factory set up.
 
LukeTheJoker said:
All I know is that the Shimano 333 is generally accepted as only suitable for use by children, not strong enough for adults...
Click to expand...
I used the Shimano with coaster for years, but nowadays, it may not be the same quality.
esrkw7.jpg


I've tried a few different brands, and would give the Sachs the highest grade. The new i motion 3 would be my choice, but I haven't used a new one, just the old Sachs version.

https://www.amazon.com/Sram-I-Motio...coding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=PAJZJ4MXJVPCQX58R2B1
 
Yes he rebuilt it, and I know he must have cuz everything had grease residue on it, and now the brakes actually engage...

He's an older guy, so I figured he'd be a good choice to go to. But when I picked it up he said that's a very unique hub, I've never seen anything like it before.
 
Older 3-spd hubs are way cool, but require mechanical bravery and user know-how, particularly Sturmey Archer SC3(and newer) 3-spd coasters. Sturmey currently makes new hubs today in many variations, and hub shell materials, but I have no experience with them.
Sturmeys can be difficult to rebuild and if not perfectly done, can easily detonate and be damaged if not put together properly. They are also sensitive to mis-adjustment, and if worn in the drive clutch, can jump out of 3rd gear when loaded. Braking is marginal.
Older German-made Sachs 515's (3-spd w/coaster brake) are IMO the best in class with unbeatable bomber design, predictability, and made of rock-hard metals and incredible finishes, but are tough to find axle nuts for, which do strip out. They are becoming more hard to find. Hope this helps you if looking at "older" 3-spds....
Below is a pic of the earlier Sachs 3111 with narrow flange spacing, and the 515 on the right..
IMG_2681.JPG
 
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SILVERKINGPC said:
Older 3-spd hubs are way cool, but require mechanical bravery and user know-how, particularly Sturmey Archer SC3(and newer). Sturmey currently makes new hubs today in many variations, and hub shell materials, but I have no experience with them.
Sturmeys can be difficult to rebuild and if not perfectly done, can easily detonate and be damaged if not put together properly. They are also sensitive to mis-adjustment, and if worn in the drive clutch, can jump out of 3rd gear when loaded. Braking is marginal.
Older German-made Sachs 515's (3-spd w/coaster brake) are IMO the best in class with unbeatable bomber design, predictability, and made of rock-hard metals and incredible finishes, but are tough to find axle nuts for, which do strip out. They are becoming more hard to find. Hope this helps you if looking at "older" 3-spds....
Below is a pic of the earlier Sachs 3111 and the 515 on the right..
View attachment 40997
Click to expand...

Thanks Silver king I like those, are the ratios pretty decent to ride?

LukeTheJoker, The reason why I want an old hub is the bike looks really period correct with pie crusts, peaked fenders, the original light, seat, rat trap, and an old bell. So I want a shifter that looks old too, so it matches the bike.... If I decide to go custom later I'll do some cool stuff like modern multispeed hubs and disc brakes, but for now I'd like a stock or era correct appearance. I'm also considering putting a drum brake in the front.
 
Eliminator3speed said:
Thanks Silver king I like those, are the ratios pretty decent to ride?
Click to expand...

Yes, 33% up(3rd) and 33% down(1st) from neutral(2nd) is the (approx.) change in gearing. Like Wildcat said above, just get your front ring and back cog sized to the cadence you like for neutral(2nd), and off you go..
 
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I have several Bendix Manual 2 speeds and they have poor breaking, big back pedal before the brake grabs, have poor modulation, weak parts that break and they are touchy to adjust every time you remove the rear wheel. I have rebuilt 3 of them and they are all the same. They didn't make them very long and went to the better kick back. I would go with the Nexus 3 speed with a coaster brake. Excellent brakes, excellent modulation, easy to adjust, way stronger than a 333, many size cogs available to customize your peddling, easily available parts and it can be rebuilt right on the wheel.
 

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