Options for fitting new seat on Lucky 7 seatpost

[Uncle Shish]

I'm looking to add a modern saddle, perhaps a Brooks or Gyes to my Elgin Board Track Racer in build off #11.
Just looking for input as to what some of you have had experience with.

The rails on the original Mesinger saddle are about 1-7/16" apart where new rails look to be about 1-3/4" apart. Do you use the original 5/8" clamp and add spacers?

Thanks

 

[us56456712]

I'm looking to add a modern saddle, perhaps a Brooks or Gyes to my Elgin Board Track Racer in build off #11.
Just looking for input as to what some of you have had experience with.

The rails on the original Mesinger saddle are about 1-7/16" apart where new rails look to be about 1-3/4" apart. Do you use the original 5/8" clamp and add spacers?

Thanks

Mixing parts never gives a real good result, the seat slips or wiggles or can't be positioned right. The best solution I have found is to cut off the top of a modern seatpost and weld it to the 5/8 rod. There are no incompatible parts this way and the modern seat guts fit. I can't remember if I just welded it on or if I had to put another piece of a pipe in there with a slot cut to make a shim. This is not a very good picture but you can see the weld on top of the area on the seat post clamp. If you don't weld then it is worth it to get it done. By the way, putting an old seat on a modern post also causes fitting problems. This is a homemade long spring saddle so it isn't old and it has normal modern rails. The post is 5/8

 

[Wildcat]

I agree with the above solution. Over the years I have tried the other methods, and done a lot of work trying to get the old bracket to work with different seat hardware. The teeth never line up perfectly or the bolt didn't align properly. I also stripped the threads more than once trying to get it tight enough so it wouldn't move.
So, welding a section of the correct size takes care of the problem completely.

 

[Uncle Shish]

Thanks for the tips and the visuals Wildcat and My Michigan UP brother!
Makes perfect sense. I may sometimes overthink things and miss the obvious solution.

 

[Gaby C]

On my '40 CWC, I used the clamp in the picture for my Gyes GS-07 saddle, and it attached fine to the original solid lucky seven post. I weigh close to 200 lbs and had no problems with it moving, I didn't use any spacers.

 

[Uncle Shish]

Nice! Thanks. I think I may have been over-thinking the whole thing. I have a 5/8" clamp to try and if that doesn't work I found an adapter that goes from the 5/8" seatpost to a 3/4" seat clamp.
I appreciate you taking the time to show me your setup.

 

[us56456712]

Nice! Thanks. I think I may have been over-thinking the whole thing. I have a 5/8" clamp to try and if that doesn't work I found an adapter that goes from the 5/8" seatpost to a 3/4" seat clamp.
I appreciate you taking the time to show me your setup.

I have and adapter and they work but I can't find them for sale anymore. Too bad as it is such a simple solution. They are a little hard to fit into the modern guts. Using an original guts clamp or Schwinn type clamp rill rarely fits modern seat rails perfectldy. If the original guts fit flat bar stock then you can pretty much for get about having something that is stable as the machined groves on the original and new guts won't match. I f you have old Schwinn guts that fit on round stock then you can use that. I have a bunch of these but I just weld on a new modern end and save the Schwinn Guts for other uses. The Old Schwinn guts that fit 5/8 and clamp onto a bar, the adapter or welding on a new end are the only solutions I found that work . The only one that always works is to weld on a new end.

 

[Uncle Shish]

I have and adapter and they work but I can't find them for sale anymore. Too bad as it is such a simple solution. They are a little hard to fit into the modern guts. Using an original guts clamp or Schwinn type clamp rill rarely fits modern seat rails perfectldy. If the original guts fit flat bar stock then you can pretty much for get about having something that is stable as the machined groves on the original and new guts won't match. I f you have old Schwinn guts that fit on round stock then you can use that. I have a bunch of these but I just weld on a new modern end and save the Schwinn Guts for other uses. The Old Schwinn guts that fit 5/8 and clamp onto a bar, the adapter or welding on a new end are the only solutions I found that work . The only one that always works is to weld on a new end.

I found this on ebay. A 5/8" to 7/8" shim. Of course, I had to buy the seatpost that I didn't need along with it, but hey, it was $13 shipped.