Nice video about hot-rodding your CB Hub for klunking duty...

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hammer mechanic did the same mod to a Bendix 70.
I copied his pictures here for future reference.
hammer mechanic 70 bendix 1.jpg
hammer mechanic 70 bendix 2.jpg
hammer mechanic 70 bendix 3.jpg
hammer mechanic 70 bendix 4.jpg
 
Just bought a new totally stock Huffy Cranbrook. I like the bike pretty well. The coaster brake does slow it down and stop it, but the thing won't lock up the rear wheel. I'm now 64 and it's probably been 55 years since I rode a coaster brake's bike. What is normal for these? Should they be able to lock up the wheel? Is there a break in process on these? I picked a bike from Walmart that had no scratches to speak of, no dents, the wheels are pretty well true. I know I have 30 days to return it. I would no doubt forfeit the $20 registration fee, which is mandatory on all new bikes bought in the state of Hawaii. I shot off an email to Huffy to see if they might send me a new rear wheel. I'd kind of like to keep this bike, and was considering adding a front hand brake kit to supplement the somewhat weak coaster brake. Also, I did order a bicycle tool kit, as I am maintaining my 35 year old daughter's bike, and realized that I had, for instance, no super thin wrenches for setting the loose ball bearing to cone preload properly on her single speed Thruster Fixie bike.
Am I expecting too much from a rear coaster brake?
 
From that one, that's normal. A larger rear cog would lower your gear ratio but give you more leverage on the brakes, making them seem better. On those bikes, I put one foot under the opposite pedal and pull up at the same time I'm pushing down with the other foot to get more braking power.
 
Thanks for the info! I'll try the two foot method. One reason I bought this bike was to try to get my right knee working. I took a bad fall about 15 months ago, and I heard and felt a nasty POP. I gave the bike I was riding at that time, to my daughter. A Thruster Fixie, and I was enjoying that single speed. The Cranbrook is harder to ride though. Maybe partly due to the 26x2.125 tires and opposed to the 700C road tires on my older bike. I think I'm lucky to be able to ride at all with the knee problem. Took the Cranbrook out yesterday on about a three mile ride. Fairly flat, but some minor hills. There is no way at this point that I can do any stand up pedalling due to the injury, so it's all sit down making climbing pretty tough. I'll be increasing the mileage on my rides as I can do more. Loose dogs are the thong here, and many roads have little or no shoulders.
Anyway, thanks for the comment, as I haven't been on a coaster braked bike for probably 55 plus years.
 
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Smaller front or larger rear sprocket will make climbing and braking easier at the cost of some loss of speed. Too much change probably won't be great for your knee either, because you'd have to spin madly to get anywhere. One tooth more at the back is about the same as two or three at the front, which will make a noticeable difference without becoming too slow. You might have to add or subtract a link in the chain. Smaller, harder tires can achieve a similar effect, as well as making handling a little lighter, as long as you're just riding on smooth surfaces it might be the best alternative.
 
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Just seeing this thread now and... Holy crap! I did a klunk in Flagstaff a couple years ago that that girl Michelle was riding in as well. She absolutely crushes it!
 
Where can I buy the longer axle?

NM - I went to Coaster Culture website and found them.
 

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