KT Hi-Stop Coaster Brake, Help Please.

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I've looked for old threads on this but didn't see the same issue. I have a (found on the side of the road) coaster brake wheel from a beach cruiser. After a complete tear-down, clean & new grease, it rolls really nice, stops well, engages well after coasting but rotates very far before engaging after braking. A previous thread suggested adjusting the cones. I've tried various settings both tighter and looser than my original setting. Nothing seems to help. Anybody got the answer? I can buy coaster hub parts from Niagara Cycle Works very cheaply but not sure what I need. Brake Cone? Clutch Cone? Thanks in advance for any info.
 
Did you put a lot of grease on the drive clutch? That can be a problem,they only require a thin film of grease.Try cleaning it off before buying any parts. If that doesnt work go to a bike shop that sells cruisers and buy a clutch,they probably have a used one cheap.
 
Thanks everyone. I did pack everything with alot of grease. I figured if it's good for bearings, why not everthing else? :oops: I'll clean it out and go with a thinner application next time. Given that I found this thing on the side of the road, I realize that I'm trying to make lemonade out of lemons here. So, I won't lose any sleep if this thing turns out to be junk afterall. I'll post if this is the problem since I know I'm not the only garbage picker on here. :wink:
 
I've had two hi stop hubs, they worked fine except they
would screeech like a banshee when the brakes were applied...
I haven't heard any good reports about hi stops...

oct
 
You can also get a child's bike from a thift store for a few bucks that has the same hub. I've done this twice, they all use the same histop hub it seems, 12" or 26". Just find one that looks unridden and swap out the guts.
 
aka_locojoe said:
On one of mine I replaced the guts with those from a Shimano and it worked ok.

Kt/histop makes the newer coaster hubs for shimano. They're no better had problems with the clutch area on several of those also. Only diffference I've seen is machined stripes in hub shell but same low budget pressed on flanges.
 
I just removed a ton of grease. This allowed me to look a bit more carefully at the clutch. There are two metal tabs that protrude from the end of the clutch assembly and insert into the cone that the brake shoes rest on. I haven't ridden it yet but I does engage forward and brake much quicker than before. It used to brake in a little over 1/4 turn. Now it brakes in a little less than 1/4 turn. Engaging forward after braking used to vary from 1/2 to 3/4 turn. Now it engages in less than 1/4 turn and seems to be consistant. :D Honestly, I'm not sure if it was removing the grease or bending the tabs or both that did it but I feel like I've learned a bit about coaster brake hubs. Thanks again to everyone.
 
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