found while yard saling (but should I buy it) and what is it

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So pretty slow weekend, I only found two bikes the first was a redline bmx bike that is destined to end up on evilbay. The second which is a bit more perplexing, I think it may be a JC Higgens but I'm not sure the guy is asking 50 what would be a fair price to offer and what exactly is it? Sorry all I had was my Iphone so the pictures aren't so good.
bmxredline002.jpg

bmxredline003.jpg
 
looks like a higgins sprocket. 50 doesnt sound bad considering a crumby walmart cruiser will run u at least 100. and this is a sweet vintage. and its a straight bar! looks like its missing the fender light and head badge and the ware on the rear fender makes it look like its missing the rear rack too. point that stuff out :D . i say bring over a 12 pack and haggle. try to grab that stand too. i could use one of those haha.
 
sure looks like a higgins from here. I gave $40 for a similar bike with a canti frame recently. that looks like some wicked rust on that front rim! is that toast? the bars and stem look really decent.
 
'50's Murray made Jc Higgins bike. These seem to have been made in the mid to later fifties. Sort of like Murray's version of a straightbar frame- made simultaneously with the colorflow type frame with the lower bar with the downward angle. It is identified by the winged guard, the ovular cutout sprocket, fork, single center rivet fenders, and clasp type seat post seat tube/rear stay joint. $50 isn't bad if you like it, I don't know that it is worth too much more though, if you were looking to resell it.
 
Looks like the same troxel seat as my JC Higgins. Mine is a later model probably, early 60's maybe.

2ronfdc.jpg
 
Wildcat said:
Looks like the same troxel seat as my JC Higgins. Mine is a later model probably, early 60's maybe.

2ronfdc.jpg

I would say the opposite, but I don't know for sure- it seems to me that your guard, rounder and fuller, was a mid fifties part typically, and was no longer used toward the later fifties; The wing looking guard on the one Cody is looking at I believe is the successor, more predominant toward the alter fifties. I think they may have been used simultaneously for a short window. Don't really know for sure though. Hopefully someone can clarify. The serial numbers would be interesting to compare...

30thtbird said:
Awesome bike Ron.
Yes, there is a way to date the Murray badged bikes. Railrider(Ron), Eddie Hill, and myself have studied this for a while. The 3 of us together have probably owned almost 200 Murrays in the last 5 years. We feel that ,for the most part, that they are rather simple.

Using the green Westernflyers serial number above as an example:
MO6 = Murray of Ohio 1966
.28 = the model number. In this case, 28 is the model number for a fenderless Wildcat(cantilever) framed 20" boys bike. (In 67 or 68 they changed to a 3 digit model number and in 69 changed to a 4 digit model number.)
X10 = Western Auto. We refer to this as the "X" number. It was like an order number. We still don't know all of the "X" numbers, but we do know for sure that every Westerflyer from at least 66 and up that we have owned and that was built by Murray has X10 in this position.
The last 6 digits is the sequential production number.

I do know for a fact that some Murray lightweights from the mid 60's had a different style serial number, similar to the schwinns. We also know that Sears badged Murray built bikes all started with the numbers "502" and then the next 4 or 5 digits was the actual part number listed in the Sears catalogs. We also know that Gambles Hiawatha badged Murray built bikes had yet a different style serial number. They started with a WG or a WG3 and then the next 3 digits was the part number listed in the Gambles catalogs. I have personally owned a few Murray built bikes that had numerous digits actually missing completely from the serial number.

In my opinion, Murray was the best documented bike in the business. You can't fake a Murray and get away with it if you know the model numbers. It's not like a schwinn where you can take a standard 3 or 5 speed and turn into that special model and triple its price. When you buy a Murray, just check out the model number in the appropriate catalog to authenticate it and you know if someone is trying to put the screws to you. It's almost as easy on the older Murrays too. I am still working on the serial number breakdown for them. So far I know that they used a single letter to represent the year and a 2 digit model number. Also, the older Murray built bikes sold by Sears had the 502 number on them too. I have posted a number of Murray catalog pages in the Ads section in the bike gallery on this forum. Check them out. Kenny.
 
Here's the serial number from mine, 17512. I looked through the Murray ads, This is model 7512 from either 1961 or 1951?

1/2 inch numbers, the biggest I've ever seen stamped as serial numbers:

14ukne9.jpg
 
Please double check on the left rear dropout. I agree with unchained, it appears to be a 60's chaingaurd. The 50's chaingaurd is like the other bike pictured. If it's a 60's as thought, it should have a serial number on the left rear dropout. It will be very small and about 10 to 15 digits long starting with 502. Notice that the number you show from the bottom of the bottom bracket was struck after painting. That's why the lines are rusty and so uneven. Those number were probably stamped on when the bike was registered in case it was stolen. Kenny.
 
Wildcat, your bike appears to be late 50's probably around 58. What is it's serial number? Kenny. PS, your number might be on the bottom bracket.
 
bikejunkie said:
Cool lookin bike.But on that bike stand.Isnt that just a cut down bent up crutch??
Actually that stand is an old lawn chair. But Man what a great Idea!! :D
 
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