You guys think a 1 piece crank would be ok for a single speed klunker build? I can always swap out my bb adapter from another bike and have "regular" 3 piece cranks.
26x2.4 MTB tires on Klunk
- Thread starter tonygameboy
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I personally like OPCs on klunkers; they do weigh more, but there's alot of heavy stuff in-play on those builds so... OPCs are really strong, but they do tend to get bent under high-torque situations (often encountered-off road, where you have the irresistable force (your bike) acting on the immovable object (some sort of trail obstacle, such as a big ol' root and you're in a weird off-camber position without sufficient momentum), but these situations will kill 3-piecers, too. I look at it like this: OPCs are dirt cheap.....and even if you bend one, you can still generally ride it back to the trailhead. A new chromoly OPC will set you back $15 to $20, so even if you kill one offroad every year, it's still a relatively cheap consumable.
I've run some Redline chromoly OPCs and some Black-Ops OPCs offroad for some time, without any problems. That being said, I do like Flites and Profiles more... But I suspect that I'll ovalize the frame's BB shell before I bend the cranks, which'd be a shame.... (Even though the cranks tend to cost more than the frames.... which says a lot about the kind of bikes I build....ha.)
My prescription for an OPC klunk: cheap chromo crank, and either a 110mm spider or a small (36t) sprocket.... be ready to buy new cranks, or have a fresh set on-hand in the parts box, for if/when you bend it....
I've run some Redline chromoly OPCs and some Black-Ops OPCs offroad for some time, without any problems. That being said, I do like Flites and Profiles more... But I suspect that I'll ovalize the frame's BB shell before I bend the cranks, which'd be a shame.... (Even though the cranks tend to cost more than the frames.... which says a lot about the kind of bikes I build....ha.)
My prescription for an OPC klunk: cheap chromo crank, and either a 110mm spider or a small (36t) sprocket.... be ready to buy new cranks, or have a fresh set on-hand in the parts box, for if/when you bend it....
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Luckily we have variety around here! I can go to southern Illinois and rides some rail trails or hit up local trails in Kentucky with deadly roots haha. I'm curious to see how the steel rims handle the trails.
I recently bought an Electra Cruiser 1 fork to use on a klunker build but the frame I bought is 1-1/8. Now I'm off to hunt down another fork (the frame includes one).
Well some good news, I picked up my rims and came out with a free set of gently used WTB Prowler tires and 4 tubes all free.
I've yet to get the frame haha. The free tires aren't anywhere near 2.4, they are 1.75.
I have another steel set that I've had 26x1.95 and 2.125 with no issues but 1.75 is awfully skinny.
I gotta say that I prefer aluminum rims (they stay in-true better, plus they're lighter, plus there's a reason why, for the past 30 yeas, only the most wretched bikes come with steel wheels.... the cheapest dept store bikes, and industrial bikes.... which makes sense b/c neither is expected to perform. I've never had a problem with tires blowing off aluminum rims, and I like the weight/strength of the aluminum rims I run. That being said, the moped-like steel rims that come stock on a Worksman are impressive to behold... and every bit as heavy as they look.
As for tires, I like volume and knobs for offroad, just like virtually everyone likes for their offroad bikes. While skinnier knobs are lightning fast on certain trails (ever try to keep up with a cyclocross guy on well-groomed singletrack? They're amazingly fast, on 700x32c knobby tires...amazing), having a little cushion for the pushin' is a big help on most trails. For clearance reasons, I tend to run between 2.1 and 2.35" knobbies... I'm a huge fan of Kenda Nevegals, but I like my Panaracer Fires and I had really nice results with the front/rear specific Kenda Kinetics. I'm working on a Schwinn Heavy Duti, which has clearance for days, and i'm thinking of trying some 2.5 or 2.7" Nevegals on that one.
Everyone has different preferences, and different trail conditions will inform those preferences. IF I only had one bike (scary though), I'd likely have half a dozen wheelsets, each shod with whatever tires I prefer for a given type of riding. (Hookworms for the street, Fat Nevegals for technical trails, smaller 1.95" Small Block 8s for fast/flowy trails, whatever.... probably have different size sprockets on each wheelset, too, for gearing options....
Luckily, I have a few bikes, so I can set them up for their intended purpose and leave'm that way....
As for tires, I like volume and knobs for offroad, just like virtually everyone likes for their offroad bikes. While skinnier knobs are lightning fast on certain trails (ever try to keep up with a cyclocross guy on well-groomed singletrack? They're amazingly fast, on 700x32c knobby tires...amazing), having a little cushion for the pushin' is a big help on most trails. For clearance reasons, I tend to run between 2.1 and 2.35" knobbies... I'm a huge fan of Kenda Nevegals, but I like my Panaracer Fires and I had really nice results with the front/rear specific Kenda Kinetics. I'm working on a Schwinn Heavy Duti, which has clearance for days, and i'm thinking of trying some 2.5 or 2.7" Nevegals on that one.
Everyone has different preferences, and different trail conditions will inform those preferences. IF I only had one bike (scary though), I'd likely have half a dozen wheelsets, each shod with whatever tires I prefer for a given type of riding. (Hookworms for the street, Fat Nevegals for technical trails, smaller 1.95" Small Block 8s for fast/flowy trails, whatever.... probably have different size sprockets on each wheelset, too, for gearing options....
Luckily, I have a few bikes, so I can set them up for their intended purpose and leave'm that way....
You know I'm thinking about putting the new steel wheels on my Hornet since it's a road/gravel cruiser. Then I'll take the aluminum Electra wheels on it now and use it for the Klunker.
I have this Sunlite crank set but it just doesn't seem right for this build. I'd have to order a bb and bb adapter.
Sunlite Alloy Single Speed Crankset - 152mm x 32T, Silver
Sunlite Alloy Single Speed Crankset - 152mm x 32T, Silver
Where the heck you guys getting 2.4+ size tires?
Niagaracycle.com
Some nice options include Kenda Nevegals (available in 26x 1.95, 2.1, 2.35, 2.5, and 2.7") or Maxxis Minions if you like knobbies. For slicker street tread, check out Maxxis Hookworm (26x 2.5) and CST Cyclops (26x2.4")... these are super heavy but durable "urban" style tires. I believe I'll run Hookworms on my polo bike, if I ever build it....
Of course, there are other options, but the short list above is a decent starting point.
Some nice options include Kenda Nevegals (available in 26x 1.95, 2.1, 2.35, 2.5, and 2.7") or Maxxis Minions if you like knobbies. For slicker street tread, check out Maxxis Hookworm (26x 2.5) and CST Cyclops (26x2.4")... these are super heavy but durable "urban" style tires. I believe I'll run Hookworms on my polo bike, if I ever build it....
Of course, there are other options, but the short list above is a decent starting point.
I may go with these, $17.99 shipped
CST Rock Hawk Wire Bead Tire, 26-Inch x 2.4 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FNY1QIS/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_kzz4tb0QE0PNX
CST Rock Hawk Wire Bead Tire, 26-Inch x 2.4 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FNY1QIS/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_kzz4tb0QE0PNX
I like the tread pattern b/c it looks like it'll hook-up pretty good but still roll tolerably fast; the real question will be how the rubber feels, and you won't know that til the tire is in your hand. Still, that's a cheap tire for real, so it's not a big risk.
Good luck; try to post a l'il review on RRB
Good luck; try to post a l'il review on RRB
Frame should be here today and then I'll start a build thread and ask 1000 more questions haha. The used OPC I bought on RRB is being a B, I can't break the chain ring free to clean up and repaint.
I have 2.4 (mini knob? not micro) on my Electra and they pretty much keep the steering straight with no problem. I don't take it on thick gravel though because a quick turn becomes a hazard! My buddy built a monster MTB and it had 2.4 super knobby tires, awesome stance.
I think for the moment I'm going to stick with what I thought was 1.75 but the 47/54 are actually 1.85. Anyways I'm going to take a brake from killing my wallet with bike builds lol.
