1 1/8th fork in 1" headtube?

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Anyone know of a 1 1/8th threadless fork to 1" threaded frame conversion???

Thanks in advance.
 
Thanks for the posts guys, I work in a machine shop and to free a lathe for me to do the work would be cost prohibitive$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ about $100 an hour......
So buying a 10-20$ one looks really good! But I can only find Chris King $350.00 ones on the bay.
One HP, you never did say who made yours, or where you found it! Maybe I need the search term you used? I naturally searched e-bay using their engine......
Any help is appreciated!
Mikebike
 
Mine was found on a very beat up , but high performance mtb , i don't remember the brand , i sanded it clean , but it had 3 letters ( ?.?.? ) its made in alluminum and have conical cilendrical roller bearings at the bottom and conical ball bearing on top

honestly by using standard headsets , you will save money and the front would sit 1" lower up front , (yes a 1" thick bottom race) :? i just used what i had
 
mikeeebikey said:
Thanks for the posts guys, I work in a machine shop and to free a lathe for me to do the work would be cost prohibitive$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ about $100 an hour......
So buying a 10-20$ one looks really good! But I can only find Chris King $350.00 ones on the bay.
One HP, you never did say who made yours, or where you found it! Maybe I need the search term you used? I naturally searched e-bay using their engine......
Any help is appreciated!
Mikebike

Look up FSA or Cane Creek, usually can find FSA cheap in rock solid steel cup versions
 
FSA it was
HS408A03.jpg
 
I hope this is not too late and helps someone out, but you need no special tools or equipment for this to work. I found this tip on a bike site somewhere i can't remember and have used it several times.

The last time I did it, I put suspension disk forks from my 2008 Raleigh mountain bike onto my 1997 Murray. I had luck with it as the steer tube fit into the cups/head tube without any problem. That may be the hardest problem for most of you. After that all you need are ball bearings that are 1/8". You can get them from taking an old freewheel assembly apart. Regular bearings from your head tube are too large (I have already tried it for you). Take the loose bearings and grease 'em up so they stay put, and put them in the cups leaving out one for space for the bearings to move around. Use all the hardware from your fork and put it together.

I have had some frames that would not even accept the forks with the cups taken out so then you are out of luck.
 
The problem with the 1/8" balls is that the radius of the bearing cups is to match some of the outer radius of the balls to distribute the loading. With the smaller balls in the bigger radiused cups you have two very tiny contact areas.
Yes, it will work, and likely for some time (these are 'just' bicycles after all....), just wanted ya'all to know.
 
True, and true. I have only used them to cruise on. SO, they only have to turn at low speed. I have yet to have a problem though. No play, no problems.
 
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