Rockafella - 1953 Ruff Firestone Super Cruiser - Completed Ride Video +MajorAward+RollingStoneCover

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Nice fab work B! I hope it's thick/tempered enough to handle the springing force because it really looks good


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Thanks, the old one was 1/8" this is 3/16" . It felt good and strong on my ride. I give it a once over to look for any stress bending. I think it should be plenty strong though.
 
It rides well. I still think it is more spring action than I want though. I'm keeping the fork on it regardless. I still may bolt up the springer so that it doesn't spring any more.
 
Bike looks fantastic, I actually really dig the sissy bar.
 
Captured the dimensions of the tank mockup and them removed all of the cardboard and metal tape.

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Removed the Monark crowns and hammered out a few dents. Then I did some careful light cleaning with some polishing compound to bring out a little more of the cream and make the green and gold striping pop a little more.

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Success! Will the 'crowns' return, or are we in for some custom kingfish doodadery in their place?!? :grin:
 
Success! Will the 'crowns' return, or are we in for some custom kingfish doodadery in their place?!? :grin:

The king crowns will return
 
Got a buddy, new to the sport :giggle:, who is following your bike on facebook. Any insider information I can blow his mind with? I like the charcoal idea too, with cream and red pinstripes, to match the parts and the rims.

Carl.
 
Got a buddy, new to the sport :giggle:, who is following your bike on facebook. Any insider information I can blow his mind with? I like the charcoal idea too, with cream and red pinstripes, to match the parts and the rims.

Carl.

I can't think of any secrets on the bike. I've pretty much laid it all out there. Glad he's liking the build. I'm having fun with it.

I still haven't decided on frame finish yet. Gotta get the tank and guard finished before I'll worry too much about it.
 
Managed to take a few baby steps with the tank tonight.

First, I ground some pockets in the tail end of the tank sides so that it will be able to wrap and grip the top tube of the frame.

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I am going to use my old stand by conduit hangers to attach the tank to the top tube.

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I am also going to use another one of old faithful items be the filler between the tank halves and form the new shape of the tank. I'll be using more of that yard sale roll of aluminum roof flashing.

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To prep for that I figured out the spacing I wanted and drilled the top of the tank halves. I am going to use the cool fender rivet screws that I got from @Mark Davo .

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The filler metal will have a v-shape just like I mocked up with cardboard and tape before. I'm still thinking this through as I go, but my thinking is to make some skeleton ribbing to be hidden inside of the tank and then bolt that to the conduit holders. It's gonna be tricky making it all solid enough to hold the weight and operation of the original delta tank horn, plus be secure enough that it doesn't spin around on the top tube. Stay tuned because I really don't know what I am doing :) . I'm just rolling with the flow right now.
 
KF, just a thought on the mount. To keep the 'tank from spinning' on the top tube, could you run your screw through the conduit hanger and into a concave notch in the frame? Like a counter-sunk hole, without the hole. That would give the screw something to sit into and keep the conduit hanger from sliding.
 
KF, just a thought on the mount. To keep the 'tank from spinning' on the top tube, could you run your screw through the conduit hanger and into a concave notch in the frame? Like a counter-sunk hole, without the hole. That would give the screw something to sit into and keep the conduit hanger from sliding.

Good idea, but my main reason for using the clamps is to no permanently damage the frame. I just remembered how I modify these conduit hangers to get a tighter and less obtrusive frame clamp out of them. Here is what I did with these for the flipped skirt guards on VerBoten. They have been hold strong for 2 years now. I also used a similar clamping method for the rear end of Firewing back in BO8.

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Good idea, but my main reason for using the clamps is to no permanently damage the frame. I just remembered how I modify these conduit hangers to get a tighter and less obtrusive frame clamp out of them. Here is what I did with these for the flipped skirt guards on VerBoten. They have been hold strong for 2 years now. I also used a similar clamping method for the rear end of Firewing back in BO8.

View attachment 55635 View attachment 55636
gotcha! Yeah, that is a great idea. I do remember seeing that now on das VerBoten, ja.

After I posted, I was going to suggest even a thin piece of rubber under the hanger, inner tube works great. 'Bites without leaving a mark'....:bigsmile:
 
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