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Just wondering what motor kits you guys think are best. I used one of the cheap kits a few years ago on a stingray but wanted to go with a better quality motor this time. Any suggestions?
 
I spent a lot of time doing research on the kits. I have the opinion that all kits have a weak point to them . I have been to a lot of vintage shows and the Best motorized bikes were welded and built with b&s motors. Lower bars were adapted with a mounting plate. Custom everything . . No centrifugal clutches! That is the way I'm going to go next year.
 
Not really interested in putting a motor on a bicycle but if I did I would want a 4 cycle motor. Why ruin the effect of motorizing with a ring ding weedwacker motor? :crazy:
 
I have a bunch of friends that just go to Harbor Freight and buy their $99 dollar motor and they mount those to their bikes. These motors will outlast any of those cheap bike motors. (I have one of those cheap motors and I think they are a waste of money) These HF motors can be stripped down of all the extra sheet metal to make it look like a vintage bike motor. You can remove the gas tank and use a remote gas tank. Even take off the muffler and put an exhaust system on it. These engines are pretty nice, easier to mount, and will outlast most other motors. That's just my 2 cents. I'm just giving you a second option.

 
I have a bunch of friends that just go to Harbor Freight and buy their $99 dollar motor and they mount those to their bikes. These motors will outlast any of those cheap bike motors. (I have one of those cheap motors and I think they are a waste of money) These HF motors can be stripped down of all the extra sheet metal to make it look like a vintage bike motor. You can remove the gas tank and use a remote gas tank. Even take off the muffler and put an exhaust system on it. These engines are pretty nice, easier to mount, and will outlast most other motors. That's just my 2 cents. I'm just giving you a second option.

Is that the one not sold in cali... Ufffffy
 
Is that the one not sold in cali... Ufffffy
You can still get this one in Cali. You just need to make sure you get part #69727. It's EPA & CARB certified. When I lived in San Diego I found ways around those stupid laws. First, buy what you want they will never know. Second, and the easiest way around those dumb laws, I moved out of California.
 
It all comes down to preference. Two stroke vs four stroke, single speed vs variable speed, horizontal vs vertical cylinder. I've always avoided the Chinese two strokes, the cheap price and the fact that they came in a complete bolt on kit is the main reason they were so popular.
 
Now to find a frame to put it on!! I have a monarch super cruiser I wanted to be my next project... just don't think I want to hack it up
In my casi. I would not take a super nice bike and cut it to accept a mounting plate and controls. I would take a less desire able girls bike and cut it and change it to look like a super nice altered bike .
 
I have never seen this end disastrously, and in fact ran a motor for a long time without them; but keep in mind that removing the tins, which includes the tank, from these ohv engines like the Predators will cause the engine to run on the hot side.
You will notice with most karting engines that they run a top plate that will mount a fuel pump and some sort of linkage. The size of of this plate you can see is much bigger than the pump and linkage. The reason for its size is to replace the gas tank's second purpose in ducting air around the block and jug and through the flywheel/fan.

I never ran a rejeted stock carb on my karts, always slide carbs; so I have no idea how much that extra heat would effect a stock carb. But with the slide and no tins, the engine was very temperamental in cool weather, as I was having to tune for a higher operating temp. Once I was told about the tins, I was able to tune for a cooler temp, and ran much better from a cold start.
 
Sorry, I meant fenders guards ETS on a vessel desirable frame to cut a motor on.. that way you get benefits if both an older looking ride but also don't need cut up a salvageable bike;)
 
I have never seen this end disastrously, and in fact ran a motor for a long time without them; but keep in mind that removing the tins, which includes the tank, from these ohv engines like the Predators will cause the engine to run on the hot side.
You will notice with most karting engines that they run a top plate that will mount a fuel pump and some sort of linkage. The size of of this plate you can see is much bigger than the pump and linkage. The reason for its size is to replace the gas tank's second purpose in ducting air around the block and jug and through the flywheel/fan.

I never ran a rejeted stock carb on my karts, always slide carbs; so I have no idea how much that extra heat would effect a stock carb. But with the slide and no tins, the engine was very temperamental in cool weather, as I was having to tune for a higher operating temp. Once I was told about the tins, I was able to tune for a cooler temp, and ran much better from a cold start.
I just re-read this info and I see what you mean about removing parts from the actual motor that are more than dress-up. They may also have a second purpose like cooling directing air around the motor by the side of the original gas tank. Thanks . It is something to look at closely !
 
I just re-read this info and I see what you mean about removing parts from the actual motor that are more than dress-up. They may also have a second purpose like cooling directing air around the motor by the side of the original gas tank. Thanks . It is something to look at closely !

When I first heard about it, I was a bit skeptical; but the I noticed that Briggs and Kohler (only factory backed 4 stroke racing companies that I knew of) did indeed use a similar technique to reinstate a shroud when distributing their racing engines.

My friends ad I didn't sanction race, but would race around buildings in a commercial complex for hours. I would contend that what we were doing was more grueling, as we weren't racing short heats, but rather flat out for 30 min to an hour at a time.
The head temp difference between shrouds and no shrouds was in the range of 100 degrees. I apologize, as it has been quite a few years, and I wanted to throw out numbers; but my head is jumbling head temp with exhaust temps.

I completely understand wanting to take form over function, but those aluminum top plates offered by kart racing suppliers are pretty nice, and the jug shrouding (on my Robin at least) is pretty inconspicuous.
 
We've never once had an overheating problem from removing the tins. These guys race these at out local drag strip and they run continuously, only stopping long enough to add gas and change riders. These engines are designed for slow moving lawn mowers so they need the tins but when you're moving on these bikes you have constant air flow over the jug. Do what you want, I'm just giving my experience with these motors.
 

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