Which Prewar Schwinn Forks are Strongest?

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And therefore better for clunking?

The Ashtabula type or the tubular type?

I'm building a clunker and on the fence which forks to use.

Thanks much!
 
I have 2 prewar Schwinn's, one with each kind of fork. Never had any issues with either, but I don't punish them at all. I think the weakest place on either fork is where the tube is welded to the fork, so take your pick. If it were me, I'd use the Ashtabula. They "seem" stronger looking. Gary
 
Going by Mr. Bonds' sight, it seems like the Ashtabula stamped-steel forks are the ones he's using. I suspect you'll fold one of those flat-bladed prewar forks offroad very quickly, which'd be a shame, b/c they don't make'm anymore.

If you watch the movie, it seems like they were on Tange TRX1200 forks as soon as they became available. I take it you want to avoid a tubular BMX fork for aesthetic reasons, but a vintage 26" cruiser fork would be entirely era-accurate/authentic.

In the end, we all gotta ask ourselves: do we want our klunks to look like a fish, or do we want them to swim well? A klunker built from all pre-war parts would look like a great white shark, but if you put it in the water, it'd probably drown.
 
I read something once that the early builders claimed prewar Colson forged flat bladed forks were strongest...FWIW.

I spend a lot of time bending [unbending(?)] forks and I say the ashtabula style are much stiffer, more resistant to bending, spring-like.
 
I read something once that the early builders claimed prewar Colson forged flat bladed forks were strongest...FWIW.

I spend a lot of time bending [unbending(?)] forks and I say the ashtabula style are much stiffer, more resistant to bending, spring-like.

Thanks yall. I was under the impression that the ashtabula types were stronger - but I was getting conflicting reports from some peeps.

I'll keep doing what I'm doing. if I break the ashtabula - then bmx cruiser fork it is.
 
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