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KEMPRACING said:
I think if you can make it work without the chain tensioner you are better off , but you need to make sure you have room to adjust the chain in the drop outs
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yep, but when you do that... you're messing with the pedal drivetrain.
So... a tensioner on the pedal side instead?

Carl.
 
Love the logo and name change.
 
KEMPRACING said:
I think if you can make it work without the chain tensioner you are better off , but you need to make sure you have room to adjust the chain in the drop outs
Click to expand...
GuitarlCarl said:
yep, but when you do that... you're messing with the pedal drivetrain.
So... a tensioner on the pedal side instead?

Carl.
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I'm thinking I'd be better off without it also Jim. Carl, you're right. I had already considered that one of the chains would require a tensioner to equal them out, but I'm thinking if I have a choice, I'd prefer it on the pedal side. of course I'm not completely sure if I can get enough clearance on the drive side anyway at this point. I'm mainly trying to make sure that I'm not screwing up for a reason that I'm unaware of if I don't use the tensioner .
 
The Renaissance Man said:
I'm thinking I'd be better off without it also Jim. Carl, you're right. I had already considered that one of the chains would require a tensioner to equal them out, but I'm thinking if I have a choice, I'd prefer it on the pedal side. of course I'm not completely sure if I can get enough clearance on the drive side anyway at this point. I'm mainly trying to make sure that I'm not screwing up for a reason that I'm unaware of if I don't use the tensioner .
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I'm pretty sure I've seen the tensioner on the pedal drivetrain side on other motored bikes. Seems a simpler solution to me after some thought. Less tinkering with the motor drive and the tension on the pedal drive side probably has less torque (for lack of a better word) I'm watching you build bro, I'm thinkin' of motoring mine too.

Carl.
 
Yeah if you need a tensioner put it on the pedal side my neighbor built a few bikes with motor kits and broke spokes out of all of them but one because of the torque jerking the chain then twisting the tensioner into the spokes but he had no way of mounting the tensioner other than what come with the kit and that is just a clamp to the chain stay he said you couldn't tighten it enough to keep it from slipping or twisting
 
I posted this in the wanted section but thought I should post here also:

I'm looking for a J.C. Higgins Colorflow fender brace (any color) like in the picture below. It doesn't matter if it's front or rear. I'm only looking for the brace but I'll take a complete fender if it's necessary. A trashed out fender with a decent brace would be perfect. (No guilt that way):)

100_8554_zps36196621.jpg

EDIT: Fender braces found thanks to Kempracing!

Jamie825 said:
Yeah if you need a tensioner put it on the pedal side my neighbor built a few bikes with motor kits and broke spokes out of all of them but one because of the torque jerking the chain then twisting the tensioner into the spokes but he had no way of mounting the tensioner other than what come with the kit and that is just a clamp to the chain stay he said you couldn't tighten it enough to keep it from slipping or twisting
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I can see that, the tensioner like most of the other parts in the kit looks pretty weak.
 
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The Renaissance Man said:
That's a good idea. I'm not very impressed with the mounting method that comes with the kit. The only problem is that I'd like to use a coaster brake.
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I really like the flipped tank idea .I cant stand the regular way these tanks mount on the top ( It looks to chunky that way.) .Coaster on a motorized bike is a bit hard to me & being able to pedal also .The last one I did had a coaster brake but I had to use the motor drive gear on the rim to the motor at the time .If you use a Sturmey Archer 3 speed Coaster hub you get shifting gears thats what I did.. I had way more speed & climbing power.. I think you may be able to run both pedal & drive gear on a multi speed cog on one side that happenes to have a coaster brake ? Or a Disk brake set up may be what you need.
 
KEMPRACING said:
No I like the name you gave her , anything I can do to help out another builder is what keeps me going in this hobby , if you need something just let me know I just might have it or know where to find it
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Thanks Jim. I think you'll like what I have planned for the brace.:D
KEMPRACING said:
Man I just thought of something , I am going to get beat in this build off with my own parts !!!!!!!! hahahahahahahahaha
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:21: funny
You've also got some of my parts and another on the way when you decide to use them!
 
The Renaissance Man said:
I'm wondering if I even need a chain tensioner if I can clear the frame. It seems that the main reason for having it is to route the chain past the frame where it typically hits it.

Maybe I'm missing the point, but does anyone have a good reason for using it?
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it allows for retensioning after chain stretch, it also gives you more teeth in contact with the gear. Also if your alignment on the chain is a little off you can use it to help guide the chain. My motorized bike I just parted out for another project had around 800 miles on it and the rear gear is still fine also. unless your running a rear derailer on your drive side getting the 2 chains to be correct tensions is a pain also/

Troy
 
deven_science said:
I think if you play around with the chain lengths, and maybe even use a half-link, you may be able to get away with no tensioners, and man, that would really simplify things.

Looking good!
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That's what I'd like to happen, we'll see.
jats said:
it allows for retensioning after chain stretch, it also gives you more teeth in contact with the gear. Also if your alignment on the chain is a little off you can use it to help guide the chain. My motorized bike I just parted out for another project had around 800 miles on it and the rear gear is still fine also. unless your running a rear derailer on your drive side getting the 2 chains to be correct tensions is a pain also/

Troy
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Thanks Troy, I'll keep all of that in mind if plan 'A' fails.
 
The upgraded tank mounting straps where narrower than the studs, so I bent a dogleg in each stud to put them in line with the holes. For a snug vibration free fit, I cut pieces of 1" hydraulic hose for the top tube and also slid four short pieces of fuel line over the studs. The pieces of hose on the top tube will get trimmed a little closer and the nuts will get replaced with some cap nuts later on.

100_8632_zps11cdd889.jpg


Before...
100_8548_zps4e656660.jpg
 
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