Rattlecan paint wrinkles

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GodHatesCleveland

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I've been using the new Krylon paint which has the domed cap. It keeps producing wrinkles in small areas.
paint071808003vm5.jpg

Even if I sand the area down and try to paint over it it produces wrinkles in the same area. Any idea what is causing it and how to prevent it?
 
i think it is the left over paint under it. use a primer or sealer before you paint or strip it down to bare metal
^
 
Upper Class White Trash said:
i think it is the left over pant under it. use a primer or sealer before you paint or strip it down to bare metal
Click to expand...
yup thats what my moneys on too......id go to bare metal then prime(same brand primer as the paint youre going to use).......
as for krylon.........ive never had a problem with it its pretty much the only rattle can ill use(but i normally dont use rattle can :wink: )
 
Like i said before, MONTANA spray paint, from spain, I stripped the frame to bare steel no primer, this chit sticks to anything with no primer needed.

M01A0290-1.jpg
 
What are you painting? What is that?
 
It's a western flyer, got it in a lot of bikes for free, was blue of some sort, but after stripping it and the seat, it was white with a floral banana seat, the top of the seat was rusted beyond saving, so I've got to come up with another seat for it once I'm done with a lil more detail sanding behind the seat tube, and painting the rest of it.
 
i been using the spray can paint that tranny shops use to paint rebuilt trannys with. its awesome stuuf! nice clean no worries paint. and when it sets up- give it like 3 days to really settle up - it turns out like powedrcoat and its hardened .

best stuff ive ever used is auto paint certain auto parts stores will mix any color you want and put it in a spray can for you.
very nice spraycan paint to use.
 
KOTA said:
What are you painting? What is that?
Click to expand...

Sorry for the confusion, Cyrus.............I meant that for GodHatesCleveland. (don't recognize the part)
 
ohh..................i forgot the most obvious thing.............when you do your coats it looks like theyre really wet(or thick if you prefer)
what youll want to do is do thinner coats(not so heavy or wet) and just do 3 or 4 instead of one thick wet coat(you can do the same if you have problems with fisheyes also) id still go down to metal first though,and use the same primer and paint manufacturers...hope this helps!
 
only time ive seen that from krylon is when my grubby thumb touched a part i was painting and i forgot to clean it before painting it, sand it down bare and use a degreaser / prep solvent is my advice
 
Thanks for your help guys, I appreciate the responses. This bike is going to be a gift and I've been trying for some time now to get it done, but it's giving me a lot of trouble in the paint department.

Believe me, I took it down to the bare metal:
sanded060908001to7.jpg

sanded0609082001rc7.jpg


It's a 1957 Roadmaster. The pic with the wrinkled paint is from one of the fenders which is planned to have a three color paint scheme, and yes, it was wet when I took it. The reason the paint is so thick is because of the repetitive paint/sand down problem spot/paint mode I've been in for the past week. Plus it's going to be a South Carolina beach bike so I figured a little extra paint for protection won't hurt. I also have to take some extra precautions to shield myself from the paint due to a nasty little neurological disorder, so at times I'm a little more preoccupied with what the airborne paint particles are doing around me, because the ones that are already on the bike are less dangerous.

I've pretty much decided this will be the last bike I paint, any others will be powdercoated, but because this one is a gift, I've really got to get it done.
 
Is that the quick drying Krylon? I used that stuff on some 1940's bath scales I picked up and it did the same thing. I finally just sanded them down and got some regular Krylon and it worked fine. That stuff might work well on wood, but on metal I don't think I would recommend it.
 
Usually if a paint crinkles like that there is a foreign substance underneath ( oil,grease etc) Sand that area real good and prime first then spray several light coats with the proper dry time between coats, it varies from mfg. to mfg. If all else fails read the directions on back of can :roll:
The other reason it would react like that is if it was not second coated within the right time frame, epoxy spray is real bad for that. Some times it is like repaint within an hour or wait 72 hours. :wink:
 
well...what tikiharl said is correct.....
in the pictures where the bike is stripped on the stand there is still old paint(albeit not much) which might also cause the wrinkles........
 
Update: Well, actually, before the update, I'd just like to say thanks again for the responses. They've helped me make some progress and in the long run it will make me a better bike builder, even if I don't paint 'em anymore.

Since the post I've done two things, make sure my hands and the resurfaced area of the bike are clean, and put a layer of primer in-between the old paint and new paint (technically, that's three things, anyhoo....). The recent success has probably been a combination of them all. If the primer doesn't wrinkle, the top coat goes on without a problem. If the primer wrinkles, I sand it down a little further and try it over again with the next coat being primer first, even if I hadn't sanded down to the original primer layer. Usually, the wrinkles won't re-appear if it goes this route.

My advice to anyone in the future who encounters this situation: wipe down the bike with a clean rag after sanding, and never be afraid to use primer...paint on paint might not cut it.
 
Sometimes if you are recoating after too long, but not long enough, you'll get wrinkles.

Try to add extra coats after a few minutes or wait several days, up to a week.
 
GodHatesCleveland: Powdercoating is not an option for a bicycle. It looks great at first, but with the first tiny hole in it, the steel will rust underneath and make nice bubbles in the coating. Almost as nice as your wrinkles. If paint does't like you, have somebody else spray it for you. Please!
 
I personally like to use Belton Molotow paint. It's made for graffiti artists, so it has great coverage (less coats required) dries hella quick. Also it's UV protected so it won't fade or oxidize in the sun like krylon or rustolium. It's getting harder to come by since the main distributer closed. If not Molotow get Montana, it's great too.
 

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