NE advice on reverse mounting this dia compe caliper on 16" Hot rock?

[Shanker]

I'm working on adding a hand brake to my kiddo's bike that Santa got him...anyhow, if I mount this caliper (a dia compe 883 re-issue http://www.porkchopbmx.com/Dia-Compe-883-Nippon-BMX-bicycle-brake-caliper-FRONT-BLUE-8830422T.htm ) in the regular position, the pads contact the tire..

but if I flip it upside down, the pads will line up with the wheel but it'll hit the chain.

I was looking at it and if I can flip the caliper so that it's right side up, but mount it under the crossbar, it'll line up with the wheel AND I won't have any clearance issues.

BUT

because the pivot bolt is notched to hold the spring, I cannot flip it backwards which would accomplish what I'm trying to do. Has anyone ever done something like this before? anyone have any tips for making this work?

 

[Shanker]

If I mount it like so, it'll clear everything once it's under tension (the release lever will be close to the chainstay, but it'll clear.

if I could reverse the orientation of this bolt it would solve the problem...this bolt holds the spring in place.

Maybe I'm going about this entirely the wrong way...any other suggestions perhaps?

 

[LukeTheJoker]

Just personally I think you would be better finding another solution rather than flipping it on the bolt, just seems like it would be introducing more possible failure points.

Best suggestion would be to use a longer set of brakes mounted normally on top, or a set with less offset mounted underneath, but others have made extension plates that bolt on to the frame with a second hole to allow the callipers to be moved closer to the wheel, and that could solve your problem and allow the use of that cool calliper...

Luke.

 

[Bicycle808]

Like Luke said, a drop-bolt would let you run that caliper outside the stays on that frame. Here's some better advice than i can give: http://sheldonbrown.com/home-drop.html I will say that, in my experience, drop-bolts will tend to make the brake feel vague and yucky at the lever.

I'd be inclined to get a ubrake adaptor plate and run some 990s on it...

 

[Shanker]

Ultimately, I'm confident that a longer caliper would be the BEST solution; however finding one is the problem.

there are three LBS's in the area; the one I shop at is primarily Rental/Fat Bike sales; it's awesome, but this BMX stuff is outside the scope of what he has or what the other ones have too.

I did alot of reading last night; trying to find a caliper that would fit better..

sites like Porkchopbmx.com just don't seem to list the reach of most calipers.... I'm thinking that the MX1000 MIGHT fit....but I'm scared to buy something from anywhere other than Amazon because Amazon's return policy makes items SOOOO easy to return if they don't fit/work.

 

[deorman]

Maybe a spacer to extend it where the pad nut is below the chain? Or is the caliper itself hitting? Any way to mount it on or below the chain stays? Right angle bracket on the bottom fender tab?

 

[Shanker]

I just went and measured the distance between the center of the bolt hole and the wheel lip.. 87mm..

This caliper would work on ANY OTHER BIKE mounted to the bottom of the chainstay cross like I have it above, but this little 16" Specialized Hotrock is just too compact clearance wise.

 

[Shanker]

I went ahead and got a Tektro 984 which by the specs will reach.

I'll use some model paint to paint it a cool color blue to match the bike.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/201072327666?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

 

[Shanker]

The Tektro mounted up and works great.

 

[deorman]