Monark Springer Repair Advice Please

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One of the spring inner guide bolts has detached at base.....

My questions is will JB Weld(or similar epoxy product) provide a solid long lasting safe repair?
Meantime, I'll clean out hole and file the rod bottom for more 'tooth' .
(Original bolt looks like it will re seat nice and vertical and top acorn nuts still fasten securely.)
Your experienced suggestions are appreciated, Thanks.


 
If you have enough depth in that hole, JB may well hold it-for awhile at least. But epoxies and chemwelds tend to degrade over time, so I mostly use it for extra-strong body putty, or for stress-free areas.

Do you have access to a welder? If this were mine i'd insert the rod, tap with a ballpeen until it was at least friction-tight and wick some bronze rod in there with my MAAP torch-failing that, i'd go over to some muffler place and pay them for a 30 second weld job...
 
You only have 2 real options (3 if you sell it to me cheap) either drill and tap the fork and take a piece of rod and thread both ends to repair the assembly, or reweld/braze the rod that you have to the fork.
 
Thank you guys for confirming my ideas on the proper way to do the repair. Do it once, do it right.
I've no access to welder myself, so was looking for a possible quick cheap safe fix.
I'll need to find a bike friendly welder soon to help with a couple of little projects that I have slated.
 
You can braze it is g a cheap hand held propane torch. It's pretty cheap to acquire the needed supplies.
 
I think the "most proper" repair would be to extract/drill out the original hole and install a heli-coil or other hardened thread insert. Replace the broken bolt with a duplicate. That's a lot of work, and some expense, but the one sure way to regain both original appearance and full functionality. Welding or bonding would probably work for awhile...I wouldn't consider them to be ideal.
 
Look at the broken stud near the acorn nut, see the wear? Suspect the other bolt is right behind in failure mode. I would have the broken one drilled out per above, and replace both studs with something sturdy, like you might find at a Boeing or Caterpillar plant. Would not epoxy, braze, or weld, capped teeth are expensive.
 
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