Just Foolin Around - 1941 Colson
- Thread starter dougfisk
- Start date
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Some elements getting finished:
Wheels are built from chrome drop center rims, stainless Sapim Race spokes, gold nipples, Komet rear hub, Union front hub.
Komet rear hub (German built Fichtel & Sachs) because they are among the very best, meaning lowest drag.
Union (german) front hub because my red 47 higgins uses one and is the smoothest fastest yet.
Drivetrain dialed in - 1/2 inch drive because it is smoother, quieter and faster (thanks to npence for chainwheel). Murray crankarm because it is longer than the Colson.
BMX grade chain for gravitas. Cool "Schwinn Approved" pedals, very nice quality. My standard 52 / 18 gearing.
Curious stem that looks a lot like the common Wald knuckle but is slightly different with a tapered top. Schwinn midweight headset is high quality.
The rumpled headbage had to go... I need to do better.
Wheels are built from chrome drop center rims, stainless Sapim Race spokes, gold nipples, Komet rear hub, Union front hub.
Komet rear hub (German built Fichtel & Sachs) because they are among the very best, meaning lowest drag.
Union (german) front hub because my red 47 higgins uses one and is the smoothest fastest yet.
Drivetrain dialed in - 1/2 inch drive because it is smoother, quieter and faster (thanks to npence for chainwheel). Murray crankarm because it is longer than the Colson.
BMX grade chain for gravitas. Cool "Schwinn Approved" pedals, very nice quality. My standard 52 / 18 gearing.
Curious stem that looks a lot like the common Wald knuckle but is slightly different with a tapered top. Schwinn midweight headset is high quality.
The rumpled headbage had to go... I need to do better.
digging the rims and nipples.
52/18 is pretty decent gearing! Top speed should be impressive!
Luke.
Luke.
Nice one Doug!
8)
8)
Tinkered a lttle today... i had ridden about 20 miles and the bike was not tracking well. i narrowed the problem down to the fork. i had trued the fork previously, but at a spread out width. when clamped down to actual hub width it was no longer holding true. the root problem is the hole-but-no-slot fork used by colson in the good old days. seventy three years of yanking the fork open to remove or replace the wheel had taken a toll. i decided to tighten up the fork spacing to actual hub width and re-true the fork at working width. and in addition i would slot the right side of the fork which will reduce future yanking considerably.
Before
After
i could tell while re-assembling that the problem was solved. the wheel lined up perfect with the headtube. the proof of the pudding is in the tasting - the test ride checked out, the bike tracks straight and stable and passes the no-hands test.
Before
After
i could tell while re-assembling that the problem was solved. the wheel lined up perfect with the headtube. the proof of the pudding is in the tasting - the test ride checked out, the bike tracks straight and stable and passes the no-hands test.
Nice work!
Luke.
I think I need a magnifying glass!
Luke.
I think I need a magnifying glass!
The frame had an amateur repaint with chips scrapes, etc... nothing vintage to salvage here. So I channeled my inner 10 year old and painted the chainguard to match and added the bright apple green trim in a sort-of-original style. No measuring, not much sanding, no eyeglasses even , intentionally crude...
The spot weld on the chainguard bracket broke while I was masking off the green region... 2 steps forward, 1 step backward.
, intentionally crude... The spot weld on the chainguard bracket broke while I was masking off the green region... 2 steps forward, 1 step backward.
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