the front forks never had trusses or maybe I used on another fork,I have 4 bent springer forks but somehow only 3 sets of trusses,these particular forks are by far the beefiest out of the lot and the heaviest,I cut the brake bridge out to fit the 26"wheel as these are ment to be for 20" wheels,mad? maybe but these seem to be well enforced and chunky at the fork crown pivot,they handle just fine,the rear feels solid enough,but til I get it all done I wont know may just run a bridge across the seat/chain stays
yer I would cut up an even smaller third rear and weld it on top of the second one to keep it low,that would look insane
thanx,its annoying in a way because I think of lots of different ways to do the chain,was thinking of bolting a cog onto the original rear dropout and running the chain down to that cog then run along under the chain stay to the original chainring then up to the forward chainring so the chain runs with the frame,or leaving as is but cleaning up the frame by removing the lower part of the dropout plus the rear brake bosses and brake bridge plus even the seat tube,the frame is nice and solid with no flex from the actual frame itself but there is some flex from combination of balloon tires/springer bent fork/articulated steering either way its a cool bike to ride
yup,Im not sure if i saved the pics I took,may have deleted by mistake but I will be able to post some pics up of prossess
thanx,I have to do a drop outline in red for the lettering,I did have a nice red paint pen which works well when writing on bikes but alas I am sure my kids used it for something else,I love how the extra dropout rear has come out so I may do this for future builds,its interesting to steer this thing,you have about 5 feet from rear wheel to steerer tube and then about 2 feet from steerer tube to front wheel axle its very articulated,if your used to riding slammed bent springers it all good,my mate had a go,before he jumped on he reckoned it would feel like a raked out chopper with some flip flop........WRONG,I cracked up laughing as he was wobbling from side to side,as the angle of the front makes the steering want to stay centered and straight so you have to muscle the bars slightly "swing" the steering
I used a BB from an exercycle because it had rectangle tubing it was relatively easy,I cut down the tubing to the length I wanted,I cut on an angle length ways and used a wide flat half round file to file the curve into the ends to match the curve of the frame,mounted it where it needed to be,marked it,and let the hot rod shop weld it up,I recommend buying an old exercycle mainly because the BB will most likely be welded to a single piece of tubing,makes it way easier to work with
all good,yer I lost the pics of the transformation,the hardest part was working out the best chainline as the exercycle BB tubing was already off center to the BB got it close,welded up and then saw that the chain rubbed on the original BB,no problem as I was going to angle grind a out a notch in the original BB but decided to run a small chainring insteadThanks for the BB details. Inspiring!
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thanx for that,will play around with some formula's that are amonia based,the frame is where its at,which is half rusty and half dull metal so will work on the chainrings and the fork,Im not a fan of the completely rusted brown all over look as I prefer to see dull steel as well so will probly spray bottle it on and then once at a stage I like will matte fix coat it as done on the rest of the frameif you want to make it rusty real quick. Throw it into a container with a bit of ammonia in it. (if you want to accelerate it a bit grab a really rusty piece of scrap metal lob in there. It will contaminate the liquid with rust.) Will patina it quickly. I know a few rat rod car people who age parts by making a mystery spray which they haven't given me luxury of informing me what it is, I am guessing the main ingredient is ammonia.
(Ammonia based cleaners will rust guns in minutes. So it should great for your ratting escapades
