I want to build one of these, need help

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fatkid

fatkid

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Ever since I first saw one of these, I have wanted one, badly. But, at ~$1600 and a limited addition, it wasn't going to happen. I do now have a Worksman frame and a wheelset that I like, but can't seem to zero in on some of the other components. I want to go with 3-piece cranks, but I can't find a straight answer to what works with my frame.

Core77_DutchMaster_01.jpg


Anyone else notice that they didn't remove the tabs for the chainguard? :roll:

Here is a link to all the cool stuff--> http://www.core77.com/store/dutchmaster/default.asp
 
The ones on that bike look like Profiles, with their Imperial chainwheel. I believe the Worksmen has an American (Large, unthreaded) bottom bracket, so you can use just about any BMX cranks, and with a simple adapter, all the roadie cranks with threaded English bottom brackets.
 
I have found a couple of newer huffy MTB's that had a 3 piece crank conversion all ready in it. Find one Then your golden. Or a new one for $20 and add your favorite cranks. Put one in a space liner or the last RRB.
 
But the INB frame is made in the USA. :wink:

I wonder why they went with the Surly front fork instead of the original. Do you think it was to save weight? Where is the back brake mounted on this thing, did I just overlook it?

Found this
dutchmaster_diagram.gif


What's the story with all the different lengths of crank arms? My local bike shop wasn't very helpful when I was asking about this project, so it looks like I will be buying online. :roll:
 
What about this hotness...

worksman-1.jpg

worksman-2.jpg

worksman-4.jpg


Looks like a Wald stem. Wonder what those bars are. I like the Skull Skates bars but I'm not paying $70 for some handlebars unless they pedal for me.
 
What's the story with all the different lengths of crank arms?

Longer cranks=More Low End Torque

Shorter Cranks=More Top End Speed
 
Pretty sure the rear brake is a drum or roller-brake, in the hub. When it comes to cruisers, I select crank length depending on seating position and intended use. If it's all about looks, and you're a taller guy running a slammed seat, shorter cranks will help to keep your knees from smacking you in the chin every revolution of the pedals. My off-road klunkers get 175-180mm BMX cranks, helping me stand up and hammer through steeper climbs when I'm running one gear to rule them all, and in the darkness, bind them.
 
This helps a lot. I understood the physics of long vs short, but wasn't sure what would be practical for this type of bike. I have really short legs for someone my height, so I may have to adjust for that. The more I look at the original bike I posted, the more things I don't really like about it. Not only did they not remove the chainguard tabs, the front forks are set up for canti brakes and the bosses are still there! I think I would be a little upset if I paid the cash for this bike and noticed all that stuff later. Now all I have to do is find some cool handlebars and I am set. I wonder if Wald makes anything...

gowjobs said:
Pretty sure the rear brake is a drum or roller-brake, in the hub. When it comes to cruisers, I select crank length depending on seating position and intended use. If it's all about looks, and you're a taller guy running a slammed seat, shorter cranks will help to keep your knees from smacking you in the chin every revolution of the pedals. My off-road klunkers get 175-180mm BMX cranks, helping me stand up and hammer through steeper climbs when I'm running one gear to rule them all, and in the darkness, bind them.
Click to expand...
 

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