Front-Hub a la Issue

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To be fair, the number of companies that now produce vintage Automobile tires is astounding from my finds.. But I understand what youre sayin and I completely agree.. seems silly.
 
Walker said:
there should be an adjuster cone and locknut on each side of the axle (between fork leg and hub shell), the cone needs to be adjusted to the bearings, then the lock nut gets tightened against the cone. The axle needs to be held in a vise to keep it from turning (soft jaws, between blocks of wood, something...) If you are tightening just the locknut you may be stripping the threads on the cone or axle. Do both sides. turn the cone until you feel it contact the bearings, then back it off a little and tighten the lock nut. remove wheel from vise, check for overtight or looseness, repeat adjustment until there is no free play and minimal drag. This is hard to do without an axle vise and axle cone wrench...

early front hubs had no locknut, just the adjuster cone.
Click to expand...

It's easier than this. You don't have to take the wheel off the bike. Turn the bike upside down. Loosen the outside axel nut (the one against the fork) until you can get an open end wrench on the jam nut. Hold the cone with your 15mm cone wrench and loosen the jam nut. Adjust the cone against the bearings, until you get the play out, and the wheel rotates on the bearings correctly. Hold the cone so that it cannot move and tighten the jam nut against it. Tighten up the axel nut, being sure the wheel is centered in the forks. Done.

You only have to adjust one side, as when you adjust the cone nut it also pushes the wheel hub over against the other side. So when one side is right, both sides are right. Hope this helps!
 
pretty hard to achieve a finely tuned hub when the wheel is still in the frame...not saying you cant get the play out of it but without turning the axle by hand there is no way to know if the hub is getting overtightened...
 
Walker said:
pretty hard to achieve a finely tuned hub when the wheel is still in the frame...not saying you cant get the play out of it but without turning the axle by hand there is no way to know if the hub is getting overtightened...
Click to expand...
+1... I find that the time spent removing the wheel is more than made up for by the ease with which i can adjust the hub off the bike.
 
I have since fixed the wobble, and placed a few additions. Photos tomorrow or the day after. I still havent gone through all the RRBBO folders yet ^.6
Thanks for all the advice folks, I really appreciate it. I'll do my best to pay it back with knowledge of my own~
 

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