ConTENtious

[The Renaissance Man]

Now that the mounting tab is cut off, what is your plan for mounting the hub?

 

[BobbyStillz]

The rat trap was missing a bolt, so I was on the hunt to find one. It’s very specific, so I didn’t think I’d find one. So I talked to my fab shop about modifying an existing bolt. They told me it would be easier to run some 5/16” hex stock through the machine and make one.

From this
View attachment 248233

To this… which one is the original??
View attachment 248234

Yeah, those shouldered bolts are hard to come by. They used them on the J.C. Higgins beehive springers as well (for the rocker plates).

 

[CRASH]

Now that the mounting tab is cut off, what is your plan for mounting the hub?

Without it I guess. If it’s vital to the operation then I’ll figure something out. But the way it sat at the fork, it didn’t look usable without some weird addition. I think it came off a Columbia, and that chopper fork is a lot different.

 

[The Renaissance Man]

It is a vital part of the brake. Think of it the same way you would think of a brake arm on a coaster brake hub. It has to be connected to the fork to work.

However, in this case, you will not be able to connect directly to the fork. Instead, the hub will have to connect in some way to the rocker because that is where the axel is mounted. If the hub is connected to the fork, it would negate the springer action.

I had the same issue with a Worksman drum brake on a rat trap fork several years ago. I was able to make a bracket that would bridge the rocker and drum mount together. Since you are changing things and planning to chrome the parts anyway, I think you will have a lot more freedom to create a 'stock-looking' mount that will blend better than just adding bolt-together brackets like I did.

This was my solution:

This is the rat trap fork. It's basically the same as yours except that it has extra trusses.

 

[CRASH]

Yeah, I cut that too soon. I’ll design a fix ASAP

 

[CRASH]

Could it be as easy as cutting an insert slot into this newly added piece, and clipping that into the that overhanging piece from the rocker?

Or do you think I should add two slotted tabs that can be joined by a bolt and nut when the wheel is installed?

 

[The Renaissance Man]

The first thing that I would do Mike is check to see that the cable routing, tabs, arms, etc. are all clear of any issues that might arise due to the rocker moving up and down. In the photo above, it looks like the tab that you added for the barrel adjuster is hitting the fork.

Once the best position is determined and everything is clear, then look to see the best way to connect the dots to make it secure. Since you have the ability to make a shoulder bolt, I would consider incorporating it into the mount in some way. An example might be something like a taller hex-head with a channel (groove) in it that the brake mounting arm could slide into as the wheel is being installed.

Making it too strong is never a problem but too weak could be and you don't want to have to go back to it after it has been chromed!

 

[CRASH]

I goofed in cutting off that tab. I should have thought that whole thing through. TRM had a good idea, but I don’t think I can make it work with how the wheel sets in. So I’ve got to come up with a solution.

 

[CRASH]

Man, this shortened timeframe has really got me under pressure. I’ve got to figure this stuff out before I take stuff to plating, and then I’ve got a few weeks to wait to get it back. Ugh. So, I’ve got to think of solutions for multiple problems at once.

So I’ve got to get the back end figured out before I can even start on getting the 10 speed figured out.

Before I can set the wheel I install the rear derailleur. But setting it like I would a Huffy, it’s too far forward.

I wasn’t sure if that mounting hole would work, and it didn’t, so I had to tap it open.

And there we go

 

[CRASH]

Does this look like a 24” rear fender to you? I think this is a Mk2 fender, maybe. But it just doesn’t fit the wheel right.

 

[ingola]

It is a vital part of the brake. Think of it the same way you would think of a brake arm on a coaster brake hub. It has to be connected to the fork to work.

However, in this case, you will not be able to connect directly to the fork. Instead, the hub will have to connect in some way to the rocker because that is where the axel is mounted. If the hub is connected to the fork, it would negate the springer action.

I had the same issue with a Worksman drum brake on a rat trap fork several years ago. I was able to make a bracket that would bridge the rocker and drum mount together. Since you are changing things and planning to chrome the parts anyway, I think you will have a lot more freedom to create a 'stock-looking' mount that will blend better than just adding bolt-together brackets like I did.

This was my solution:

This is the rat trap fork. It's basically the same as yours except that it has extra trusses.

Love that fork and such a clever solution

 

[CRASH]

I pumped that rear tire up to 40 last night to form the NOS tire because it was wrapped and had never been mounted. That tube blew out in the middle of the night last night. I about soiled myself in my bed.

 

[CRASH]

Punched some holes into the front fender mounts.

 

[Flying Zombie]

Does this look like a 24” rear fender to you? I think this is a Mk2 fender, maybe. But it just doesn’t fit the wheel right.

View attachment 248456

I feel like with a strut in place back there, it'll tug down and glide a bit better over the tire and wheel., it looks nice from here, otherwise?

 

[SkyknightJohn]

I feel like with a strut in place back there, it'll tug down and glide a bit better over the tire and wheel., it looks nice from here, otherwise?

Yeah, maybe you don't want to interrupt the lines, but there are holes on the fender, and holes on the dropouts, so, a strut would pull it down nice. Not crazy outta whack without, Most wouldn't notice, but to all of our "trained" eyes who see the little difference, sure, not a perfect fit. If you don't want a full strut, maybe a short one to to the top of the seat stay?

 

[CRASH]

Braces were standard, and I planned on using some. But no amount of brace is going to pull that in. It’ll just put a ton of pressure at the bottom where the chain guard cut out is and now that out.

Luckily, I may have found an original. More to come on that.

 

[CRASH]

I set up the tape measure for sanding down the width. Hopefully that works. More to come.

 

[The Renaissance Man]

Wow, that is small! I didn't think about the zip tie being taller than the puck.

After seeing this another thought came to mind. If you can get a piece of material around the same thickness that you're after, drill a hole the same size that you have there and drive the tape spool down into the hole eliminating the zip tie. Then you can lay it on your work bench and use a hand held sander. Make sense?

 

[RustySprockets]

Yeah, lay something flat against the top side so the removal is consistent. Even a popsicle stick would do the job.

 

[BobbyStillz]

Does this look like a 24” rear fender to you? I think this is a Mk2 fender, maybe. But it just doesn’t fit the wheel right.

View attachment 248456

Try mounting the bottom part of the fender on the other side of the cross brace. It should correct the tilt.