Chain woes

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Agreed that a master link is the preferable way to go, but nanac's desired chain length (95 pins/47.5") requires him to join dissimilar ends. That can only be achieved by use of a half-link. If he wants a master link as well, then replace a set of outer plates elsewhere along the chain.
 
RustySprockets said:
Agreed that a master link is the preferable way to go, but nanac's desired chain length (95 pins/47.5") requires him to join dissimilar ends. That can only be achieved by use of a half-link. If he wants a master link as well, then replace a set of outer plates elsewhere along the chain.
Click to expand...

Yeah, exactly right. Use a half-link if you need to, but that surely doesn't obviate the advantages to using a master link as well. I'm saying all chains are best off with a master-link, and we run half-links in conjunction with master links if the application calls for it (eg, vertical or short horizontal dropouts...)
 
With my half link installed both ends of chain will be for the "inside" so theres no choice but to put a master link in to be able to couple together. Right????

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You're confusing me. Strictly speaking, a master link is not even necessary--one can always join the ends using a common chain tool. The master link is only for convenience sake.

The photo you submitted that you claimed reveals the correct length, shows the master link straddling a point that is male on one end; female on the other. With the half-link properly installed, there won't be any "ends." The chain will form one big loop. Any other combination will be either too tight or too loose, by your own measurement.
 
Ok pretend the master link is not in this pic only the 2 identical chain ends. When I install my half link to one of the chain ends both ends of the chain will still look the same (no outer side plates) You cannot join the chain in this pic together without a master link. Because both ends are identical. AND will still be identical.

I need to put a half link and master link in chain to make desired length. I will take a pic when I get my Ebay parts to make everything easier to understand.



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You could run a halflink without a master; you'd just have to break the chain so the one end was an inner link and the other end was an outer link. But, imo, you did the right think by running the masterlink, plus the way your chain was cut, yeah, u had to b/c both ends were inner links...
 
Wait a second. You said the chain in THAT photograph was TOO LONG and didn't fit right. If it DOES fit, then what's your complaint?

A bike chain with all standard links will always have an even number of pins. You say you want one with 95 pins. That means a half-link is essential. There is no other way to count 95 pins and have your chain complete. Put the whole master link issue out of your mind until you get the length right...sheesh.
 
Rusty the first 2 pics in this thread are backwards. The last pic I just posted today If I couple the chain together as you see it right there (using the master link pictured ) its VERY TIGHT. Add a half link chain is perfect. Has to be a 95 pin chain nothing else. This thing is so pecuilar that adding even one more pin to the chain and it wont tighten up.

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Okay...so, if the item in the photo is very tight, then connect the half-link to one end. The result will be the same two "male" ends that are now pictured...just slightly longer. Use the master link to finally connect those two ends...which will both terminate with inner plates, as they do now. The result will be as close to size as possible through link manipulation. Any fine-tuning will then be the responsibility of the idler gear tension adjuster.

The confusion stems from multiple photos of multiple chains. I don't think we were addressing the same ones at the same times.

I'm guessing that the tight chain pictured most recently is only 94 pins, correct? The half-link will add one to the total count.
 
Rusty NOW YA GOT IT!!!!! Thats exactly what I am having to do. Result will be a 95 pin chain. Tomo I am gonna call Worksman and see what length chain fits a single speed freewheel Porto trike. They have to use a half linked chain. See no other way.

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I'm truly puzzled how a chain without a half-link does not fit properly within the limits of the tension adjuster. That's just crazy. Are you certain there isn't something bent on that bike? I'm glad there's a fix for your situation, but it shouldn't be necessary on a production bike, even if you change the gearing.
 
I have tried everything. Not knowing the original chain specs I built a chain but was alittle too long. I shortened it slightly and was so tight you couldnt turn the crank. That stupid idler takes very little slack out. I am waiting on my half link in the mail and will take some pics showing what I mean. I know its hard to explain.

UPDATE Did some googleing around looking for the OEM chain specs. Found a site listing a pn. and denotes that chain does use a half link.

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Like i said upthread, i worked on a brand-new example of the same bike (except the one i was assembling was a 3-speed, which is a moot factor as far as chain length/tension), and yeah, the design is kinda weird insofar as we couldn't get the chain tense enough with all the stock parts. FWIW, the original chain did NOT include a half-link; it was just loose no matter how i adjusted everything. Further, the secondary chain going from the diff hub to the axle, that was too tight. after much futzing, i ended up adding a link to the diff chain, and i ended up changing the gears of the drivetrain for the athlete's needs, which required the addition of a few links, but it ended up getting proper tension once it was all set up. FWIW, the st-up has worked well and endured ever since (over 2 years ago...)

So yeah, in summary, these trikes don't allow for as much chain adjustment as they ought to. It's definitely a design flaw, although it is one that can be worked around with a l'il ingenuity. The halflink is almost certainly the best way that @nanac1212 could address his specific set-up.
 
808 this one had the 3 speed double chain hub but had internal issues so I tossed it and converted to a one speed freewheel. Exact setup as a factory one speed. The original 3 speed did not have a half link but chain was longer and did not require one. There is a half link listed in the Porto trike parts list so I can only assume the single speed trikes have them due to a different length chain compared to a longer and more adjustable chain on the 3 speed models.

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The chain is longer on the 3speed model, i'm guessing, b/c it's running a bigger cog than the SS version, but i can assure you, the chain is no more or less adjustable for a 3 speed than it is for a single. What folks may not realise is, there's 2 chains... one for the crank to drive the hub, and then the intermediate chain that goes from the hubs second fixed cog to the rear axle. So, it's tough to balance the tension between the two chains; once you got one right, you can't tension the other without impacting the first. That's what that idler wheel is for, but it doesn't have as much vertical adjustment as I'd like. I'm sure you know this, @nanac1212 , b/c you just worked on one but other folks might not be familiar with the set-up. I avoided the need for a halflink by changing the gearing, but i'd have gone the halflink route if we weren't changing the primary ratio anyway.

Dude's trike is mean; it's his race rig and he tore it up at state finals last year. The season is just now kicking off and i haven't had a chance to tune the port-o-trike yet, but i'll be doing that tomorrow if he needs it.
 
This trike I have is like new blue in color. Got it for 65.00 because hub had issues. Guy just wanted it gone. Older models were called Trifectas but same bike as a Porto. These are awsome little guys to ride. I ordered my link on Ebay a week ago but has not come yet. Tracking thru USPS shows its not moving so the seller sent me another. If I ever get my half link I will be all ready to go. We just got a new rail trail about 40 miles away and very excited to take the trike there.

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I finally got the half link installed. It leaves a slight bit of adjustment left after the chain is properly adjusted. If the chain was the slightest bit longer it would be too long. Take out the half link and chain is tighter than a banjo string. Worksman coulda come up with a better system than this to adjust a chain. Another thing...if the chain gets the least bit slack it will jump off the idler cog too.

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Glad you nailed it on the chain length. New chain will undoubtedly stretch a bit over time. As for the derailment, have you double checked the alignment and for any wobble in the cog itself?
 
Yeah the cog has a tiny bit of wobble but I can adjust that out. I dont know if I wanna keep the trike or not. Got it geared factory 36/20 and you spin like crazy and have no speed. Afraid if I go with an 18t freewheel it will be harder to pedal vs easy to pedal but slow. I am more comfortable with a full size 24 inch trike so I may sell this one.


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