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Yeah, that has a cool vibe for sure Doc! I suggested the WTB tires for @MazdaFlyer 's build a couple years back, and I think they fit his resto-mod as well.

Your rim color is really unique, and will set this one apart from others.
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Was also able to remove the rust/remaining chrome from the center of the cloverleaf and paint it bronze. I did take one extra painting step on this and apply a coat of ‘rust reformer’ to neutralize it before prime/paint/clear. With the chrome teeth and crank, all black pedals, I think it will compliment the wheels/tires, without being too ‘match-y-match-y’ , and tie the whole power train together. Chain will most likely be a KMC Rustbuster in their silver (galvanized?) finish. Also pictured is the sealed cartridge bearing BB set. It’s a Tange BB-220SB for one piece crankset.
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The chainguard should arrive today too, something else to ‘sandblast’


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Nice work on the sprocket! That came out sweet!
 
Doc is going ALL OUT!!! It is going to be sick!

We’ll see....in my mind, it will be ‘more simple, than sick’....a phrase often used to describe me....[emoji2957]


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I used one of those Tange sealed units for one-piece cranks. I really like it. The only reason I haven’t bought one for every bike I have is the price. Sprocket looks great, btw.


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I used one of those Tange sealed units for one-piece cranks. I really like it. The only reason I haven’t bought one for every bike I have is the price. Sprocket looks great, btw.


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I agree, SUPER smooth.....SUPER expensive (compared to traditional caged bearing units), I bought it on a whim for another build, but went a different direction, so I figured I’d use it on this bike.

I can always swap it out for a ‘normal’ one if/when I decide to sell


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That chain ring crank combo looks good!
I know you were going for a simple , clean build, Doc. But the fine details are coming out in your work, as always, and I know you will go with the flow as the build progresses. Good to have you back in the RRB BO !
 
Nooooooooo!
Reminds me of an especially "matti" incident from college. Left a colour theory project out for the paint to dry on the eve of deadline. A fly walked in and died as the paint dried. No time to redo, so I grabbed an exacto and cut him off at the ankles, handed in the assignment with six tiny stumps sticking out of the gouache. Professor's comment "looks like you did it on the bus ride in to school"
 
No one told the wind, "We're building wheels, not wind chimes!" :mad:

Exactly!
Got the offenses sanded out between meetings, gonna touch them up over lunch. All paint curing will be done inside my bike shed going forward, it’s definitely hot enough in there....


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I did a painted version of that sprocket for my first mbbo, I think they look fantastic with color in the middle and the chrome ring/teeth outside!
 
Well, the first attempt using sandblasting attachment to the pressure washer was a fail, so no video of my perfectly shiny frame....[emoji3525]
I guess I’m gonna have to go old school on paint removal, oh well! [emoji2371]


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Sorry to hear about the failed sand blast.
I've had good results with the Zip Strip paint and finish remover. It's strong, so use rubber gloves, mask, and I plastic tarped my area where I stripped the Desert Sky klunker frame I did a few years back. I plan to revisit this technique on my '53 Shelby as well.

It's like a gel, so it hangs on to the frame pretty well, but does drip too. I let it sit for awhile, then use a plastic scraper, or that cool curvy tool I found at Northern Tool (Harbor Freight clone) to scrape off. Wire brush, sand paper block, and green scrubbies all came in handy.

zip strip.jpg


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I agree, SUPER smooth.....SUPER expensive (compared to traditional caged bearing units), I bought it on a whim for another build, but went a different direction, so I figured I’d use it on this bike.

I can always swap it out for a ‘normal’ one if/when I decide to sell


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I've have one of these I got it trade a while back. I was thinking of using it on rollin bones. Any problems installing these?
 
The only ‘issue’ I’ve found is the cup/bearing combo is wider/deeper than stock. I was installing it on a bike that needs the chainring spaced out to avoid chain/tire contact (the rear wheel is 80mm and a 26x3.5” tire...) this scenario left very little threads on the non-drive side, unless you find a wider crank (like old MTB stuff).
I’m not expecting that issue on this bike, as I’m using a 1.5” wide rim and a 26x 1.75 tire.

I can tell you this, when it was installed, it was as smooth as glass


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