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Weld or braze on 1 inch tubing cut from an old frame.

Read my post again, the problem with the stem was touched on. In the 1960s I had a French bike that I bought at Sears, a big box national chain. It had original decals on it from many countries, including Israel. The frame tubing had smaller diameters than any euro road bike I have owned. I...

Another view of the jump.

I didn’t want you getting hurt. It may be somewhat safe for awhile but I wouldn’t trust it.

That bike is a death trap. Simplex plastic derailleurs break and jam freeze the rear wheel or lock up the chain at the front derailleur when they break. Historically they put people in the hospital and even killed some. They broke from the get go, and are more prone to braking with age. This is...

If you want something with class name it Bucephalus, Alexander the Great’s black horse, the most famous horse from antiquity. Also, it’s the name of Father Brown’s bicycle in the TV mystery series. I gave a rod brake black bike of mine that name, as it was similar to Father Brown’s bike.

Enlarging drops on a fork evenly. File one side of the drops only. Pressure on the file between the drops only. One hundred strokes, flip the file and do another 100 strokes. Keep flipping. After the hub axle fits use a round file to remove the notch at the top of the drops that result from...

Two 1955 Ford Fairlane race cars on NASCAR chassis. They only run on racing fuel. One has a Roush NASCAR engine.

New world record.

I used a torch and my usual mild steel dimpling tools do try and widen the chain stay gap. I couldn’t get the chrome molybdenum tubing to move with these tools I made a shim from a junk seat post clamp for the rear derailleur shifter.

I used a torch and my usual mild steel dimpling tools do try and widen the chain stay gap. I couldn’t get the chrome molybdenum tubing to move with these tools. I used a hammer and a 2x2 piece of square tubing to force the stays apart from 44mm to 48 mm. More pounding and it will be good.

I didn’t finish in time for the end of the build-off so I’ll finish up here. I put the rear wheel on today. 38 mm tires are tight, I’ll probably dimple the chain stays to prevent rubbing in corners. More fussing around.

I didn’t finish. This is as far as I got. I still have to weld on a different chainring, finish lacing the back wheel, put on the rear fender, mount the saddle, install the crank, BB, pedals and cable it. I might move it over to builds if I ever get around to working on it.

I woke up this morning to this.

I used 270 and 276, which is close enough that spoke head washers on one side centered the hub. Pro wheel builder gave me 269 and 274. That might be short? I still might try that.

Ski flying used to be much more dangerous. The agony of defeat dude wasn’t the only jumper that day to qualify to the hospital. They ended out calling off the tournament as too many jumpers were getting hurt as the visibility was low. The tracks now are laser straight and the landings are much...

I’ll run it again and try and get it right. I think I saved a photo of my old numbers. It’s close now. New spokes are cheap enough, but it would be nice to get it right for once. Right now I’m not doing any wrenching.

Oh no helpful you are. I’m going to revisit my calculations. I appreciate your input. Now I know where I went wrong. I reordered my parts and I should be back to working on the wheel soon. This hub is awful, thick hub flange on one side, thin on the other, drilled for thicker spokes on one side...

Dah. Another dah is that the stuff for this project I’ve been ordering has been either returned to the vendor or thrown out by the post office. I am having my mail forwarded by the post office while I recover at our in-laws but I found out the hard way that if there is no forwarding on the...