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Would a spacer at the lower fender mount, to move the fender closer to the tires, help make the gap between the fender and the tire uniform?

Carl.

Thanks for the nudge to lace a new rim on my hub.
I did the disassembly and cleaned up my old hub this evening.
 
Would a spacer at the lower fender mount, to move the fender closer to the tires, help make the gap between the fender and the tire uniform?

Carl.

Thanks for the nudge to lace a new rim on my hub.
I did the disassembly and cleaned up my old hub this evening.
The lower mount might actually be too far back as it is. If it becomes necessary, I may have to cut it out and move it also.

Good luck on the wheels, I'm sure they will turn out great.
 
I connected the dots on the truss rods. The bottom plates are cut out of 1/8" steel and extend about 1 1/2" inside of the tubes to keep them parallel. I hope to have a friend brass braze them tomorrow if we're not stuck in snow and ice.
100_8749_zpsprj7n7jy.jpg
 
Getting ready to build my wheels and I'm finding conflicting information on spokes.

My first thought was to replace my double butted spokes with heavier straight-gauge spokes.
It seems counter intuitive, but from what I've been able to find out, 14/15g double butted spokes are actually stronger and more flexible than straight 14g spokes. I'm thinking that with the drive chain pulling directly on the spokes, having the extra flex would be an advantage over stiffer heavier spokes.

Does anyone else have any insight about this?:39:
 
I always try to go with the heavy duty 12g spokes (I like the beefy look they give) and give it a decent amount of heavy duty grease for the hub. I have seen a lot of rims beat up from bikes being motorized. I have never dealt with the double butted spokes but they look like a really good option.
 
After seeing how the 14g spokes bent up after I put 100 miles on that skyhawk of mine, they were all creased in a ring where the bolt on bushing was . If using that rubber. style mount I'd find the thickest spokes I could find on that drive side. I remember seeing a three piece machined spoke clamp spricket bushing on e bay. Was tempted.
 
While I'm waiting to sort out the spoke decision, I worked on the rear fender today.

This would be so much easier without fenders, but I like'm. :)

After cutting out the cross brace, I needed a way to center the fender before making a new brace. The only way for it to fit right is if the radius is centered on the axle. To achieve this, I determined the diameter of the peak part of the fender and used the radius to cut a jig to hold the fender centered at the middle of the dropouts. hopefully this should give me the correct location for the new brace/mount.

Fender%20jig_zpsmljz1uns.jpg

I'm starting with the brace on the seat stays before doing anything to the chain stays. I thought that it would be best not to remove more than one at a time to help keep the frame from moving somewhere that it shouldn't.
 
Glad you like them. The other thing to think about on these motorized bicycles are your local laws. Here they have to have fenders

I also had to 'customize* the fender to clear the engine*s chain. With your setup you might not need to ...
 
It seems counter intuitive, but from what I've been able to find out, 14/15g double butted spokes are actually stronger and more flexible than straight 14g spokes. Does anyone else have any insight about this?:39:
DB spokes, even the old non-stainless ones are lighter and are higher performance. They also have a better "feel" because of it. If that's the original lacing on that sturmey hub, you should keep it. Looks like long brass original nipples.
 
The brace is brazed or braze is braced however you choose to think of it. :confused::rolleyes:

Thanks again to my friend Maurice at Unique Motorcars for taking a torch to my bike. This is the same shop that does the fiberglass work on the Spaceliner tanks that I sell.

Fender%20brace%20braze_zpsa2i9ne91.jpg

brace%20done_zpsss99wskq.jpg
 

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