removing a cog

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Depends on what it's on, I guess. On the bikes I've worked on recently, on the front sprocket, you take the nut and cone nut off the other side of the crank, remove the crank from the bike, and can then remove another nut to free the sprocket. The rear sprocket is held on with a retainer clip. But I suspect that this has varied some through the years, and I have no idea if old skip-tooth stuff is easily interchanged with more modern stuff. You might post pictures of what you have.

See this link for what I'm talking about:
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/opc.html

I had always assumed that skip-tooth chains were normal chains and that the sprockets just had half the teeth missing. And here lately, discovered that's not the case, so I think you'd need skip-tooth sprockets on both front and rear.
 
here are some pics i took of the cog and the one i want to replace it with.
IMG_2806.jpg

IMG_2808.jpg

IMG_2809.jpg

IMG_2807.jpg
 
there is a snap ring sorta thing that hugs the outside of the sprocket on the hub. usually takes me 2 flathead screwdrivers to get the thing off, you should see the gap in the retainer ring, pry it open until the ring is large enough that you can pop it off the hub.

the other thing is the spocket on the hub will probly have 3 little "teeth" on the inside that fit on the hub and kind of lock it in positioon so it spins with the hub, doesnt look like the skiptooth has them on the inside of it, may have to figure that one out when the time comes ?
 
Looks to me that your 1" pitch wheel cog threads on, hence the slot in it. I am guessing that the hub you are wanting to swap it with is probably of a newer type and probably uses a retaining ring as previously described. If this is so, they are not compatible. I have seen earlier coaster hubs with 1/2" pitch cogs that thread on, but have never attempted a "cog swap". The 1" pitch cogs and chainrings are wider than 1/2" pitch units. This may offer issues as well i.e. proper thread engagement, clearance. You will need to remove the newer cog to determine compatability first. :wink:
 
It looks to me that there is a threaded lock ring on the outside of the cog instead of a snap ring. If that's the case, its most likely reverse threaded then making the cog threaded on there as well, but normal threaded. Best thing to do is to try taking it apart and then seeing if they are compatible. The best tool to use is a three slotted lockring tool or a single slot Hozan lock ring tool. They are bit pricey but working with fixed gears so much, the park tools are absolute junk and round off incredibly easy making a good tight fitment nearly impossible. Anyways, just try it out and see how it works.
 
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