my bike engine

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Nov 5, 2010
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Overview
p1010008rr.jpg


home made ​​gasoline tank
p1010012fz.jpg


vintage saddle made ​​in Portugal

p1010011bt.jpg


203mm hydraulic disc brake front
p1010009bz.jpg


180mm hydraulic disc brake rear

p1010010mq.jpg

7-speed cassette big (for my 90 kg) :oops: :oops:

p1010014v.jpg


I thank you guys all kinds of commentaries :lol: :lol:
 
Very cool bike!

The gearing looks really interesting, I like the look of that transmission set up and only needing to have one chain running to the rear wheel as well as being able to run the engine through the cassette. Could you tell us more about this set up? Did you make it yourself or are there kits available to do this?

Excellent work my friend!
 
How does it shift to the big ring on the back? Ive never seen that much of a jump of sprocket sizes. Also why do you need such a low gearing? Other then that cool bike.... it must haul
 
Wow, there's a whole lot of great stuff going on with this bike. It looks like it was built to be ridden! Big rotors, cushy fork, wide gearing... I'm especially fond of the tank. I'm going to make my own tank soon, so I'm eager to see other people's solutions.
Oh, and welcome to the forum! I'm new here, too.

harry76 said:
How does it shift to the big ring on the back? Ive never seen that much of a jump of sprocket sizes. Also why do you need such a low gearing?

It's a Shimano Megarange. I've wondered how they perform too, but they must be at least medium-acceptable if Shimano markets it... right? :) I bet it would be a great cassette for cargo bikes in hilly country.
 
Strings_and_steam said:
Very cool bike!

The gearing looks really interesting, I like the look of that transmission set up and only needing to have one chain running to the rear wheel as well as being able to run the engine through the cassette. Could you tell us more about this set up? Did you make it yourself or are there kits available to do this?

Excellent work my friend!
Hello, yes it was me who did everything in my garage, but there are also available in the USA, it's just too expensive and added to the cost of sending custom house duties, but see this link http://www.sickbikeparts.com/catalog / index.php? cPath = 21 & = osCsid f0lp4iikr27fbcmbmbk300mkb5
 
harry76 said:
How does it shift to the big ring on the back? Ive never seen that much of a jump of sprocket sizes. Also why do you need such a low gearing? Other then that cool bike.... it must haul
hello, it's very easy to change the tape, but to help you better have a picture of your bike with a detail of the rear wheel, send the photo and here we solve the problem
 
Jimmybug said:
Wow, there's a whole lot of great stuff going on with this bike. It looks like it was built to be ridden! Big rotors, cushy fork, wide gearing... I'm especially fond of the tank. I'm going to make my own tank soon, so I'm eager to see other people's solutions.
Oh, and welcome to the forum! I'm new here, too.

harry76 said:
How does it shift to the big ring on the back? Ive never seen that much of a jump of sprocket sizes. Also why do you need such a low gearing?

It's a Shimano Megarange. I've wondered how they perform too, but they must be at least medium-acceptable if Shimano markets it... right? :) I bet it would be a great cassette for cargo bikes in hilly country.
hello, my friend for you who wants to build a tank see this link and have the answers to your questions, go giving news
http://motorbicycling.com/f26/tinsmiths ... 26805.html
 
I dunno, if shimano made that rear cluster you would think its alright. But i wonder, especially if he is using a standard bike chain that when he tries to shift to the big cog that it would be putting a lot of stress on the chain as you can see by the black marks form the chain trying to climb up it. Id be worried that could cause the chain to break. Just a thought....
 
A typical bicycle chain uses 40 series chain with a minimum tensile strength of 3125 pounds (1417 kg) and a working load of 810 lb. On a 2.25 hp engine I don't think it is going to be a problem. Well within the working range. Those oily streaks on the side of the cog are normal for touring gears without an engine. It's a big jump from the cog under it so it clings to the sidewall of the largest cog. Just don't shift under major engine load and you have long equipment life.
 
cobrafreak said:
The shift kit is really nice. It will probably make the engine last a long time due to the fact that it isn't straining all the time.


hello, yes it's true, I had a double chain and as I have some more pounds had some difficulty on the climbs, with this kit solved the problem completely, and aida with the advantage (if you see in the picture) does not push the kit directly to the table between them and the frame has a rubber ring that virtually eliminated the vibrations
 
harry76 said:
I dunno, if shimano made that rear cluster you would think its alright. But i wonder, especially if he is using a standard bike chain that when he tries to shift to the big cog that it would be putting a lot of stress on the chain as you can see by the black marks form the chain trying to climb up it. Id be worried that could cause the chain to break. Just a thought....

hello, yes that was produced the shimano cassette and has no problem and used the chain of DH, it changes very well, the brands you see are brands of lubrication
 
cobrafreak said:
A typical bicycle chain uses 40 series chain with a minimum tensile strength of 3125 pounds (1417 kg) and a working load of 810 lb. On a 2.25 hp engine I don't think it is going to be a problem. Well within the working range. Those oily streaks on the side of the cog are normal for touring gears without an engine. It's a big jump from the cog under it so it clings to the sidewall of the largest cog. Just don't shift under major engine load and you have long equipment life.
Hello, what for words !!!!!! here is the explanation given technique. just to add that when I bypass the chain immediately cut the engine acceleration to do in the diversion load
 
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