Morrow hub problems-Grinding?

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TheFlyingDingo

TheFlyingDingo

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Ok, so got this bike today
camera-gate506.jpg

i wanted to tigten the chain a little bit and i get this problem:

Keep in mind-my neighbor is grinding...whatever hes grinding while i was recording

I had to put the kickstand down too...
While cranking the pedals, it makes no noise(neighbors grinding noise heard)
and then i let go and it starts clicking and spinning freely, like shown in video

All i did to the hub so far is put some transmission grease on the bearings on the side of the cog, i read not to open up the brake side somewhere

But you guys know what your doing, ill do whatever your telling me(basically...sort of)



Ill make a better video at request
 
Dingo, I can't really tell if it's a model B or the model V Morrow. If it's a model B, which is the most popular, the retarder spring inside the hub may be out of place or broken. The model V is similar to the Bendix Red Band and doesn't have the same style spring as the model B. There is an exploded diagram of the Morrows on Dave's Vintage site. Make sure that all the bearings are facing the correct way. My computer doesn't have enough mojo to view any video's, but if it doesn't have any brakes when you back pedal, the retarder spring is most likely the culprit and it's easy to put in out of place. Do a close up pic of the brake arm side of the hub and that will help identify which style Morrow you have. If it's a model V, you may have a bearing problem and it's a pretty rare hub nowday's. Thanks!!!
 
Ok, i was too lazy to get a picture of the arm alone, i forgot to lock it, and it spun around while braking

It does have brakes, and as i remember...the bearings are in order, ill double check

Ill get a pic with the wheel off and everything a little bit later
camera-gate518.jpg

Starting to look like a V to me.
but i dont know...
 
That's a model B drilled with .130" spoke holes. Kinda rare! The cones may be too tight. Try adjusting the cone on the cog side till you get a free spin without any slop at the axel. I would suggest getting some larger flat washers to go behind the axel nuts and attach the brake arm strap back around the frame if your going to be putting the brakes on. You could snap or twist the axel without it and they have an axel that is hard to come by. Thanks!!!
 
Ok cashman

"slot at the axle"
what do you mean by that?

And whats the cone?


Are you saying MAKING it loose? without the whole wheel jigglin' too much?
Im...Putting it in Lay-mans(sp) terms
More pics...
camera-gate520.jpg

camera-gate519.jpg
 
Dingo, I apologize if I confused you or anyone else out there. That was not my intention.
On the sprocket side of the hub where the axel sticks out, you should see a round nut looking thingy dingy that is threaded onto the axel and holds the sprocket/drive screw assembly in the hub. There is probably a thin lock nut screwed aginst it. That thingy is called the adjusting cone and the purpose of it is to adjust the running clearance of the ball bearings in the hub. If it is too tight, there will be less running clearance and therefore would cause the bearings to bind and make the wheel roll hard like the brakes were partially on. If it is too loose, The running clearance of the bearings would be increased and would make the wheel spin more freely, but make the wheel wobble like it was loose even though the axel nuts were tight.
What you want to do is turn the adjusting cone on the axel either inward or outward to where the wheel spins freely, but tight enough to where the wheel doesn't wobble in the frame. I referred to the wheel wobble as "slop". You might have to back the lock nut away from the adjusting cone a couple of turns in order to turn it. The adjusting cone won't have to be turned much. One complete round will make a big difference in the bearing running clearance.
The reason I pointed that out was, sometimes when the brake arm is disconnected from the frame and the brakes are put on, the brake arm and anchor expander are allowed to turn on the axel. This will reduce the ball bearing running clearance and cause the bearings to bind and make grinding noises inside the hub. I don't recommend ever putting the brakes on inless the brake arm is attached to the frame. It can twist or break the axel. Hope I haven't completely confused you or anyone else by now but it's something thats hard to explain in a couple of paragraphs. Thanks!!!
 
Thats it...i dont think theres that thin bolt on there
Edit-ANd its not on the brake arm side either...but i noticed they usually are not

and when im riding it, the wheel eventually does get loose...or "Sloppy"
it also drags...like the brake is applied...

with these problems, i would stop pedalling and the crank would still turn with the clicking grindy noise
 
The neat thing about the Morrows is that they had a date code stamped on the outside of the hub shell in between the spokes. A letter and one or two numerals. There are date code charts posted on the web. You might have to scrape away some paint on yours to read it. It will have Eclipse Machine Division stamped on the shell and under where it says that to the left, will be the date code. It's always interesting to know when something was made. That is a neat hub you have. Thanks!!!
 
I've got some spare morrow parts if you need em. I just got these sweet factory blacked out "during the war" hubs.
l_b3436ed0eb5262a9b726f3ead7857dcd.jpg
 

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