help with engine choice
- Thread starter bomble37
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Got all mine from powerkingshop from ebay, hes not selling kits right now only bgf and lucky early bird who i think are the same people. I always bought the delux model . Pick a dealer off of motoredbikes.com. All the engines come with bearings instead of bushings as far as i know nowadays.
If you do a Google search you will find many places to but the China Girl 2 stroke kits. They all are built from the same Country, China. The different models, Skyhawk, Starfire, ect, are from different factories I have read. There is a little one, 48cc I think, and the big one, called a 66/80. There is not size difference on the outside between the small and large engine. China claims the large engines are 80cc but the math is wrong as they are really 66cc. So they are referred to as 66/80's. They put out 2.25 hp. I have a 66 and have over 1200 miles on it and it still runs great. Use synthetic oil and don't run it at 100% throttle all the time and you will get good life out of it.
That is what I meant, fitment. It bolts up in the same way and takes up the same room.harry76 said:
That is THE engine kit I used in the Indian, lol. The case is chrome with a blacked out cylinder which is cool. The rear hub is fantastic because it has the heavy duty axle with sealed bearings and it's triple threaded so you can thread on your pedal chain cog on one side and the engine chain wheel and band brake on the other. Tell your wheel builder to lace it "cross four" and you will have a really strong reliable rear wheel.
The kit you showed on your link has the heavy duty rear axle and hub. The brake with the kit is made specifically for that hub. The reason you want to use it are 1 it fits the brake, and 2 it allows you to "thread" your engine sprocket on the hub rather than onto your spokes with big rubber washers. I would be worth it to rebuild your rear wheel to add this hub because it just wont break and you will be adding the engine sprocket to rear wheel the very best way possible. Attaching sprockets to wheels by screwing them to the spokes will eventually lead to bent spokes and wobbly wheels. Cross four is considered by wheel makers to be the strongest spoke pattern you can use, something I learned along the way to my build.
cool!... ya i'm not too motocycle savvy, but I learn quick, especially when I get to put it together and see how it works.
So , this kit has better rear (longer lasting ) hub with brake for it, and just better parts.
Seem so obvious to choose this one, just wish they made this kit with a cheaper engine to make the kit cheaper. Oh well, if it makes it better then its worth the extra coin.
Are there any other kits that offer this type of rear hub?
thanks!
So , this kit has better rear (longer lasting ) hub with brake for it, and just better parts.
Seem so obvious to choose this one, just wish they made this kit with a cheaper engine to make the kit cheaper. Oh well, if it makes it better then its worth the extra coin.
Are there any other kits that offer this type of rear hub?
thanks!
Ok, one more question.
Whats the best brake set up for this kit? just use the brake that comes with only? I have a 26 in rear and 22 in front with a springer front end, so the only way I can get a front brake is to relace with a front drum brake.
thanks again
Whats the best brake set up for this kit? just use the brake that comes with only? I have a 26 in rear and 22 in front with a springer front end, so the only way I can get a front brake is to relace with a front drum brake.
thanks again
75% of your braking force is going to happen through the front brake because when you brake most of the weight of the bike and rider transfer to the front wheel, just like in a car or motorcycle. If you are putting along at 25 to 30 mph you will need front brakes to help slow you down faster and in case you have a brake failure on one end you will have the other to save you. If you are doing a retro board track build go with a drum brake. If you are going for a modern build go with a disk because they stop the best. Low buck build could use a V-brake, but I don't know how long it would last at the speeds you will be going, much faster than a normal bicycle. The important thing is to have two brakes. Double redundancy.
cobrafreak said:
I have an old worksman sitting next to me and one of the things I would like to do is add the drum/axle kit. Do you happen to know the diameter of the hub flanges? I'm hoping I can use my spokes and rim and just relace it with the hub.
Thanks
WaterDries said:
2.25" inches across. When I went to my wheel builder all I had were the hubs. I said "make me the strongest wheels possible that you can". He got me the downhill racing rims and made custom cut spokes. I think a lot of wheel builders do custom length spokes. Rather than having literally dozens of sizes laying around you just have one raw spoke length and you cut and thread them to your desired lace pattern/length. Using your old rim will be no problem. Using your old spokes may be impossible.
to the ppl using this kit, how weak is that rear drum brake? i love that the hub allows the sprocket to be threaded onto the hub shell rather than the spokes, but that brake looks kind of suspect...
-rob
-rob
As far as I know it's custom. The brake isn't horrible. I use it every day. It is the same model band brake that is used on scooters.
