hello i just thought i would do a review of the monarch forks incase someone was to purchase one. i found that first they are not wide enough for front hub and need to be widened, their is no bearing race on the steering tube so the headset never tightens up .. anyone else have these problems.
Crossbows monarch fork review
- Thread starter firebikes
- Start date
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I have a set of the reproduction and I have a set of original monark forks and they are the same width they were designed for early wheels not the modern wheels with the bigger bearings and axle
so if you are putting them on a vintage bike with vintage wheels I see no issues and just take the race off another old fork. they are slightly pressed on I see them as little issues other than that i love the new set
so if you are putting them on a vintage bike with vintage wheels I see no issues and just take the race off another old fork. they are slightly pressed on I see them as little issues other than that i love the new set
I've read all the threads on this Crossbow fork because I'm planning a schwinn frame based build and I'd really like to use this fork on it. I noticed on their ebay auctions the fork is available in 3 headtube lengths. Is this a new developement? And would the 7 1/8" headtube length fix some of the issues people had with this fork?
Here's a link to the Ebay auction
http://cgi.ebay.com/MONARK-CHOPPER-...oryZ7295QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
I'm new to this bike building thing so these might be stupid questions. I'm fairly mechanically inclined so cutting, filing, muscleing, and shoehorning parts til they fit doesn't scare me, but welding is beyond my scope of tools right now.
Dennis
Dennis
Here's a link to the Ebay auction
http://cgi.ebay.com/MONARK-CHOPPER-...oryZ7295QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
I'm new to this bike building thing so these might be stupid questions. I'm fairly mechanically inclined so cutting, filing, muscleing, and shoehorning parts til they fit doesn't scare me, but welding is beyond my scope of tools right now.
Dennis
Dennis
The 7 1/8" steer tube model should work on a Schwinn middleweight frame
I've taken these measurements from a Schwinn middleweight frame and fork:
6 3/4" steer tube on the fork
5 3/8" headtube on the frame
One thing to note though, some Schwinn frames used a longer headtube (ie: girls Stingrays. Varsity headtube sizes are all over the place). You could play it safe and get the longest size, then cut it down to the required length.
-Mp
I've taken these measurements from a Schwinn middleweight frame and fork:
6 3/4" steer tube on the fork
5 3/8" headtube on the frame
One thing to note though, some Schwinn frames used a longer headtube (ie: girls Stingrays. Varsity headtube sizes are all over the place). You could play it safe and get the longest size, then cut it down to the required length.
-Mp
Multipass said:
Thanks for that info! I haven't scored a bike/frame to start on so I'll hold off ordering a fork just yet. I just gathered from the threads on this fork that the headtube length originally came in only one flavor and maybe the maker is addressing some of the fit issues.
Dennis
REad the information in the reviews carefully there are still other major issues that you must plan on dealing with
fork problems
one solution for putting a fork on a bike that the steertube is too long is to go to you local bike shop and get some spacers for threadless forks, the come in 1'' for most forks and 1 1/8'' for your newer forks, they come in different thickness so you may need more than one. put them on the fork first then the bearing race on top of them and that should solve your problem. when the fork has strut rods then you can't cut the tube down, and besides the threading die 1'' x 24 threads cost over $100.00
one solution for putting a fork on a bike that the steertube is too long is to go to you local bike shop and get some spacers for threadless forks, the come in 1'' for most forks and 1 1/8'' for your newer forks, they come in different thickness so you may need more than one. put them on the fork first then the bearing race on top of them and that should solve your problem. when the fork has strut rods then you can't cut the tube down, and besides the threading die 1'' x 24 threads cost over $100.00
