1940 Roadmaster ?

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Hey guys i have some questions about my latest project i would like to use the skiptooth sprocket on the front but have a new rear rim and was wondering if i could take a old skiptooth rear sprocket and put it on a modern rear hub? If not can i just change the sprocket to a modern style tooth but still use the old dogleg crank? I also went to put on a set of pedals and they were to big to fit the crank good grief what else,I thought a crank was a crank lol. Can anyone verify the year of the bike ballpark? Thanks
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Your photos aren't showing up. In photobucket, copy the code marked "IMG" and paste that into the box here. That'll make them show up.
 
Hi, your bike is a postwar Cleveland Welding built bike. It has characteristics that mark it as a very early postwar frame, probably from late 1945 through 1946.

If you don’t mind posting or PMing me, I would be interested in the serial numbers stamped on the crank hanger to add to the CWC serial number data base I’m working on.

As far as ½” to 1” conversion, it is probably easier to run ½” pitch chain on the bike. You should be able to use the original dogleg crank with a ½”sprocket; most ½” sprockets are thinner so you may need to add a shim between the sprocket and the cone nut.

All the common 1” pitch balloon coaster brake hubs were also were available in ½” so it is fairly easy to adapt from 1” to ½” that way but to go the opposite direction and fit a 1” pitch cog to a modern coaster brake will probably require welding and machining to adapt an old cog to the new hub.

Pedals typically have ½” or 9/16” spindles. Most balloon and standard kid’s bikes use ½” while 9/16” is standard for racing bikes and better MTB’s and BMX bikes.

Phil
 
actually cman it was a 22 (i am lazy and dont like to pedal hard lol) but the concept is the same. get a cog with an even number of teeth grind every other one off and bingo it works great with a skip. and no pops or skips yet at least. also i have done this for a few other people and no one has had any issues.
 
Ok thanks for the info ,I never thought about grinding every other tooth off good idea. Still trying to find some handlebars i like and a seat. I was told it was a prewar but i dont know, I will get the serial number later on and post. Thanks again
 
Here are some pictures i found on oldroad .com 1940-41 is what the second bike is under but 1939 looked the same to me. Last picture is of a 46 i can see a difference on these. My serial number is H10301 sorry im still confused as to what yr this is for sure. Thanks Just learned that the drop ears on back of frame was discontinued on 42 models..maybe its a 42?
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Hi, I’ve posted most of this both here and on the CABE to clarify my earlier post here and rto espond there.

First, thanks for posting your serial number. Each number helps pin down exactly when changes in production and design were instituted at Cleveland Welding.

The serial number H10301 equates to the end of the first series of postwar 3-Gill frames. The earliest postwar frame cataloged so far is an “E” serial number and postwar “J” serial numbers are the beginning of the second series frames which differ in having a deeper curved down tube and an ovalized hole in the dropout for the chain guard bolt.

Your bike is very little different from the last 3-Gill (named for the tank they use) frames built in 1942 before WW2. What is different is the lack of integral tabs on the rear dropouts which were used as stops for the drop stand and the way the dropouts are welded to the frame. Prewar dropouts have a weld bead around the interface of the stay ends and the drop, postwar frames have no visible weld at this interface. The pictures you posted are of a 41 3-Gill (the orange/cream bike) and a 24” juvenile model that is no earlier than 1949 (the red/white bike)

It is easy to get a lot of expert opinions from collectors and from various sites on the internet. (Indeed, here you are getting mine!) Many sites give approximate dates, rely on the owner’s opinion or guess based on the knowledge they have available at the time. The reason I have been collecting serial numbers and studying the changes in design is to raise the bar with regard to dating CWC products. I have yet to catalog enough numbers to be definitive about dates to better than about a half year plus or minus in most cases but I have confidence that your bike is postwar and likely built in mid to late 1946.

Phil
 
Great bike! I can't wait to see where this one goes, I love those wheels and tires with that frame! Perfect combination.
 
That rust/cream picture is of my '41. Since then I have done a bit more work on it, plus added a New Departure DD setup(after this picture was taken). Still, for a first effort, it gets lots of attention- and it came to me in much worst shape than the one you're starting with.
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