Recent content by JLarkin

I built all the bikes I could store and ran out of room; I think I have 10, maybe 11. For that reason and for lack of temptation I have been absent for quite some time. I still like the bikes and enjoyed this forum. It helped me immensely. Hope everyone is doing well. It got to 66° here...

It goes more by the first letter. Post war for sure, 46/47/48 - I don't recall the sequence. The wheel set and crankset have been changed but those are good looking hoops.

Nice bike. I think you just need a couple more chainlinks to move that wheel back.

Wire wheel, soak in white vinegar bath for a couple of days, Duplicolor etching primer, JB Weld the holes. File smooth, then bondo or glaze (glaze is easier).

Re: early Monark Rocket I have one with that badge but early 50s. Your's looks pre-war with the straight downtube.

http://www.shopgoodwill.com/viewItem.asp?ItemID=7827088 If you know anyone in Grand Rapids, MI, here is a cheap donor bike. Here is another one right here in Indy. http://www.shopgoodwill.com/viewItem.asp?ItemID=7807640

Try tightening the bearing cones 1/2 turn.

Re: Schwinn Starlet III SAE or Metric A pair of visegrips, crescent wrench, medium straight screwdriver and medium phillips screwdriver.

3hp, 20 gal. Mine is 220 volt, 25 yrs old Campbell Hausfeld. It runs everything I have except an impact wrench and a sandblaster; in the suburbs I have little use for either. The compressor only needed a double pole 20a breaker and I wired it with 12-2 Romex. You really don't need 12-3 unless...

HVLP is more for production shops who are looking to comply with VOC laws and save on materials. Best bang for the buck: http://www.harborfreight.com/touch-up-a ... 66871.html Get an adjustable regulator for the end of it like this and you will have a nice setup...

Re: 1940? Colson In the text it says a Musselman hub is extra charge. Who would have thought that was an upgrade?

I just went through this on a Bendix hub. The bearing cones are likely not snug enough. Tighten them a little more and try it again.

With those horizontal chain adjusters, I would say 53 to 54. Under the crank should be the stamped serial number with AC something at the end. You'll need to sand the metal bare to read the numbers most likely. Good find.

Those look good fixed up. Here is mine Monark badged with a Columbia fork:

I would go with the hacksaw blade idea. I did this with a bushing shell on the rear end of a car. Just cut until almost through. The blade width will allow enough gap to squeeze it in on itself. At that point it should twist out fairly easy. Shouldn't take more than 5 minutes to saw it...