Spring fork alignment anybody?

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i have a build thread going right now called "freebird". Part of this build will feature a spring front end with some welded drop outs. Build thread here : http://www.ratrodbikes.com/forum/index.php?threads/freebird.104147/

I have built a bike with a springer in the past and I learned quickly that I have to align the wheel versus the fork.

My question is: does anybody have a typical routine on installing spring forks in regards to bolt torqueing pattern and/or best way to keep the wheel straight?

PS the fork is your typical single spring that you might find on a low rider bike or an early Schwinn.
 
On some of the made in china springers, it is possible to overtighten the crown bolt which will crush the tubing.
Post a pic of your springer so we can get a better idea of what you are asking. On those springers, I'm not aware of a bolt pattern.

sfmain_1_1_1.jpg


If this is your fork, the spring and 2 top strut nuts and bolts should already be tightened down. Mount the fork to the frame, then it should be just mounting the front wheel, then check the crown bolt for snugness.
 
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The steps I would usually take for correcting a springer fork are as follows:
1- remove the wheel from the springer.
2- remove the stem and headset, so you can remove the springer from the frame.
3- Take some pictures and list the fork in the ¨for sale¨ forum
4- Put the springer in a box and send it to the next guy
5- Install a rigid fork on the frame, and enjoy the vast benefits.

HTH; GLWS!
-Rob
 
Some factors that affect alignment that I have found . It is best to use a fork that has a set screw in spring mount bracket that slides onto the steer tube. The set screw is on the back , where it mates with the notch machined into the steer tube threads. The rubber cushion between the yoke and the spring bolt is sliced on an angle. Rotate this rubber cushion for desired results . Also rotating the spring yields different results when tightened. I prefer to put the heavier open ended fork legs seated all the way on the axle first, then the the other ones in the outer position ( opposite of the picture ). Now, if I have done all of that , and there is no side play in the axle bearings,the rim is true, and the wheel is still out of alignment ,it is time to use a big finesse tool.
 
There is some great advice posted here.
I'm working with a vintage one now and while it's a beautifully engineered item, I'm finding it's a bit of a 'pill' to assemble.
But it could just be me......


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