Indian Scout. - Info?

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metalchewy

metalchewy

For the love of the Ride 🚲 🔥
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This bike caught my eye while I was out today. The guy says $95 firm. Not sure what is a good price for one, but the cool factor has me kimda hooked on this one. WBO bike maybe?.

Anyone know any details on these?
Black And Rust colored :) n


 
I'm thinking it is. 52 or 53 but am not sure. The pics of the 51 I found didn't have the stainless ropped forks. It does have the 3 speed kickback sturmey.
 
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The one I found is no where near as pretty as those links, but I want it.
From what I gather, 50-100 is reasonable for what it is. I am going to go back tomorrow and haggle a bit to see what I can get it for. Then see what parts I can start gathering next month.

If it had one of those headlights on it u can bet I wouldn't have walked away from it today. :cool:
 
Check the rear hub shell for a date, 2 digits for the year along with 2 digits for the month. It looks like a standard Sturmey Archer 3 speed without coaster brakes. It has a rear hand brake. If it's the original wheel, and it seems to match the front wheel so it might be, it should have a date on it. The forks look like a piece is missing but it's probably the pic quality. If the bike is solid, it's worth 50 to 75 bucks, if you really want it. I would point out to the seller that it's just badged Indian, it wasn't made by the Indian bike or motorcycle company. If you're going to ride it, it'll probably need all new cables, tires and tubes, and new seat as a minimum. Oil and grease too. It's like most of the English lightweight 3 speeds, nothing special but nice bikes. I'd like to have that project.
 
It's all there, looked like a chunk was missing. I'm looking forward to see what you do with it.
 
The frame and bike seemed familiar, just figured it out. Wondering if the same company also made the Robin Hood bike? I saw one a month or so ago, except fr the badge, looks almost like the same bike....
 
metalchewy said:
The one I found is no where near as pretty as those links, but I want it.
From what I gather, 50-100 is reasonable for what it is. I am going to go back tomorrow and haggle a bit to see what I can get it for. Then see what parts I can start gathering next month.

If it had one of those headlights on it u can bet I wouldn't have walked away from it today. :cool:
Click to expand...

If you want to rebuild the bike, remember I have parts: wheels, brakes, cables, fenders, etc
 
marius.suiram said:
If you want to rebuild the bike, remember I have parts: wheels, brakes, cables, fenders, etc
Click to expand...
Marius, that is great, thank you. I will know in a few hours.

First up this morning, helping a buddy change the front 4x4 hubs on his 69 power wagon, then about noon, over to this bike.
 
Ok, so here's the details:

Hub date is 52. It is not a kivkback, but a cable shift. The only damage on the frame I could find is on the seat stay right below the seat clamp bolt. Looks like someone used a crescent wrench on it and slightly bent the tubing. The other damage is on the head set chrome is cracled and buckled a little from metal fatigue. Ended up talking him down to 77.52, all the cash and change I jad in the wallet.

Aired up the tires amd rode it up the stree to the grocery, can get 2nd and 3rd, but can't get into first. When I clean up the bike, will the rebuild the hub. Those twisted pedals were a treat..

The only component that seems out of place is the french sprint seat. (Not as uncomfortable as it looks)
Pics, with rez.




















 
Good deal! The bike looks a lot better than the it did in the original pics. The wheels look good, just surface rust and the tires look good. All the chrome may shine up.
As for the brake, I would change out the cable even it works ok.
As for the rear hub, I would use light oil and add some in the port and add a good bit after unscrewing and taking out the shift chain, right down into the hole in the axle. Then I would install the chain and cycle it a few times to get the oil spread out, while letting the wheel rotate to work it in. I wouldn't pull the hub apart unless it still won't get first gear after all that. That hub has an free space between 2nd and 3rd gear, meaning the pedals will turn freely in no gear, bad if you're standing on the pedals. So, the adjustment is crucial, I put the shifter (also could us light oil) in 3rd and tighten the cable until it barely has no slack, that usually is all the adjustment it needs.
If you find a kickstand for it, be careful not to over tighten it, almost every lightweight English frame I've seen has crush marks on the tubing from that. Yours does, but very little.
The headset and crank bearings, maybe the front wheel too, are loose. I remember the headset has 22 bearings in each cup, the cranks have 12 per cup. They are probably dry, so they will fall out all over, I use a bucket underneath when I open them.
 
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Excellent tips wildcat! That's gonna be a big help. Glad I didn't just tear apart right away.

Any specific type of oil? Sewing machine, or the like? Or motor oil?

Also noticed an oil lid on the crank tube? Oil the cranks after repacking the bearings?

This is a desert bike, I'd bet the hub bearings are dry. Is it difficult to take apart the rear hub? Done plenty of coaster type, bendix and komet hunb and new chinese coasters, bet never a 3 spd.

Thanks again
 
I'll bet the grease in the hub is dried out too, but maybe the light oil will loosen everything up. I have taken them apart, but it's complicated. The crank bearings usually do best and last a long time by repacking with bike lube or grease.
I use 30 weight regular motor oil for all the light oil. A cheap quart lasts a long time, I figure we never generate enough friction to get them hot, so that's fine.
I also think that seat may be salvageable. I've seen others use a punch to put holes where yours has the sides sticking out, then lacing them up to give the seat it's correct shape, then a conditioner to soften up the leather.
 
I will have my fingers crossed on the rear hub and oil...

I was thinking the same on the seat. Its not as hard as the photos make it out to be, its still pliable, just dried out. I got some saddle soap/conditioner in a box somewhere, but not sure where its at. May run down the street to the tack/implement store tomorrow to pick up some more. Lacing is a good idea, will try that.
 
Here's the idea.
15fkw0l.jpg
 
I was at ace a few min ago, I had to pick up fuel line for my leaf blower. (Yes, it is finally fall here).

I was hoping they would have some eighth inch brass grommet/eyelets, no luck, only had 1/2 amd 3/8. I've got some thick waxed leather thread and a lock stitcher, should be able to sew the cross tying in easy enuff, if any rip thru, I guess I will deal with that when it happens.
 

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